How to boil gasoline without really trying

Sgreg

Silver forum user
Messages
62
Living in Texas is a tough arrangement during the summer when temps of 95-100 are common. Clearly, a drive of even a few miles can produce high engine heat. With the fuel pump hanging above the mufflers and the engine churning near 215 degrees, I have noted the gasoline will actually bubble in the fuel filter and in the carb fuel bowl. This is not good. Cool air and gasoline produce the best performance. What is a good heat insulating wrap to do mufflers fuel pump and filter and starter ? Can't hurt and should help power robbing and mechanical failure of expensive components. As always, thanks for the advice. BTW, does anyone use a Cool Can with their Tiger ?
 

TigerBlue

Gold forum user
Messages
827
Cool

Starting at the fuel pump a simple heat shield between the muffler and fuel pump. Aluminum of 1/4 inch works well to block radiated heat and pass it on to the passing air. Attach it to the fuel pump.

Vapor lock is not usually a problem with the electric fuel pump so near to the gas tank but carburetor float bowls can boil or percolate when heat builds up in slow moving traffic. An insulator between the carb and the manifold is helpful. Boiling is easy to clear if you can turn off the fuel pump with the key still on. Otherwise it is hard (impossible?) to stop the flooding unless you turn off the key and park it awhile.

Cool Cans are about 1/4 mile drags. The ice in the can will not last under the hood for a drive in say over 10-15 minutes of traffic.

As far as street performance in a Tiger? 200 HP or 300HP, either can quickly run out of options and talent. I would not worry about optimizing performance with cold gas as the gains that might be measurable in a timed 1/4 mile? are lost on the street.

Rick
 

Cal44

Gold forum user
Messages
428
When I would see old Land Rovers some would have, on the roof, another piece of aluminum attached about two inches from the main roof. Like having two roofs. The first sheet (top)would absorb/reflect the heat as it was usually painted white. Then an air space of about two inches. This would keep the inside of the vehicle much cooler in brutal heat zones.

I think the space between the metals is the key, allowing a bit of circulation and barrier.

If I remember correctly, Ford 289 HiPo's had an aluminum plate between the carburetor and intake manifold to help keep the heat from raising straight up to the carb. The plate was much larger than the base of the carb.

I like Ricks thoughts on shutting down the fuel pump and allowing the engine to run. Sure would help in re-starting.

One more thing. I would also add a layer of heat resistant material to the formed sheet metal being installed. This was done on the Boss 302 passenger side to protect the rubber on the motor mount but would work (I guess) on anything you want protected from heat transfer.
 
Last edited:

michael-king

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
4,132
On the tigers there was a spacer between the carb and manifold.. but i think it was not metal, perhaps a composite I have even seen wood spacers, anything to stop the heat soak.
 
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