Rust removal bath for small parts ?

I'm sure there must be something good for an overnight soak of lttle bits that will remove any paint/corrosian/rust. Any suggestions ?


Thanks

Steve

You can buy phosphoric acid (metal conditioner) at Lowes and autobody supply shops. Even better if you have a Tractor Supply Store near you buy a gallon of Dairyland Milkstone Remover & Acid Rinse. It is a phosphoric acid and detergent and it is only about $12.00/gallon. http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...10551_10001_34589_-1______?rFlag=true&cFlag=1
I have used this to remove rust from parts as well as to etch gas tanks before applying gas tank sealers and it works great! Eric

Eric- the stuff from Tractor Supply--- I started sanding a fender to bare metal months ago and now there's surface rust- I know I need to resand it but Im lazy and would rather remove it some easier way. Will the TS stuff work to remove the surface rust- then neturalize it with water??? or a baking soda/water mix?? dry well and then spray with a can of primer to stop it from happeneing again. the car appears to have but one small rust spot but I would like to take it to the metal so I know if there is any repairs etc etc.Some paint and some primer on all of car. I really want to know for sure if repairs where made before I bought the car.
Your knowledge is appreciated.
TtT

Hi Tony-yes it will do a great job removing surface rust like that. Maybe a light water rinse (there will be a coating leftover after using the phosphoric acid), let dry and spray with Rustoleum rusty metal primer and it will last a long time. Eric

Rust removal

Not sure what kind of parts, but you might think about naval jelly or WD-40. Don't think either will remove paint, but will clean up surface rust -- with some "scrubbing".

Bill

Screws, nuts, bolts, springs, hose clamps etc. Things that aren't ideal for sand blasting and too small or delicate for wire brush. I thought about WD40 but am also unsure about paint removal capability and the only WD40 I see is aerosol rather than pour into a conmtainer packaging.

Steve

Rust removal

You should check out this link: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

It appears to be a relatively painless way to accomplish the task. Haven't tried it yet, but I am getting ready to attempt restoration of my Tiger, B9471635, so I have been researching all kinds of remedies. I found this one a few weeks ago.

Al

I am responding a bit late to this post but here goes. I sold Por-15 Products for ten years and have used some of the paints and rust removers on my cars to include Boss 302, two '70 Corvettes, and Porsches.

Metal Ready, a Por-15 product will do a fine job on rusty bits. I let them set overnight in the juice and put on rubber gloves and get to scrubbing with the small brass brushes I buy from Harbor Freight (my favorite store for cheap stuff). They (Harbor Freight) also carry a rust remover that is very safe and it works o.k but I stay with Metal Ready. For all I know the other acids work well but this is what I am used to. A bench grinder with a mild brush is just wonderful for small items even with threads. I put on my goggles (safety first) and hold the item with a pair of angled pliers just barley touching the item to the moving brush. Works everytime. Currently doing a '63 356. Amazing how much room there is in a 356.......amazing

If anyone wants to know about the Por-15 paint (one part urethane) I will be happy to write on the subject. Keep in mind I haven't sold that line for five years but not much has changed. I now am required to pay retail.....damn
Also while I am aimlessly writing, another fine product line is the Kriol Company. In my unbiased opinion they make the finest penetrating oil on the market.

Por-15 products are not cheap.....but I only like doing the project once so I pay.