Can a Tiger survive 118 degrees?

1966 TGR

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The answer is yes.

Returning from Tigers United Monday morning I had an appointment with the curator of the Mullen Museum in Oxnard. This is a spectacular museum which has many racing and street Bugattis as well as the Bugatti that was resurrected from the bottom of Lake Maggiore and left as is on display.

It was well worth an extended visit, and I have confidence in my cooling system, so at 1 pm, I embarked up the Conejo Grade in 110 degrees, then through Calabasas and west San Fernando Valley where it hit 118!!. I have a digital outside temp gauge mounted on insulation behind the front grille. Stop and go traffic up Sepulveda pass at 109 degrees. Temp never went over 200. so it can be done. The weak link wasn't the car, it's the driver melting inside of it!
 

Doug C

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Please share what you attribute your car staying so cool. If you care to share what have to done to your car.

Thanks - Doug
 

Warren

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Me too

I went through it too but about noon. I had same fun but can't trust my gauge, it's way off when in operating temperature. I stopped used I/R gun and read 190. The stock gauge really sucks or I've gotta try a different sensor. I felt worse and car felt better as I pulled heater on and left hood unlatched to be safe. Should have stuck to US 1 wow.

The ride up was actually chilly and what a change it was.
 

1966 TGR

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tiger cooling

Glad to provide the info. It's pretty much everything we have seen over the years from a number of contributors. For reference, the engine is a 289, putting out 280 hp at rear wheels, so significant heat generator. Edelbrock heads and intake manifold.

-- Stock radiator, carefully cleaned and tested. Copper and brass are better conductors of heat than aluminum, so if has a good core, it should be fine.
--14 PSI radiator cap
--Horn block-off plates
--Lower valence ducting and cross member sealing to prevent recirculation of hot air under the radiator.
--Ford 14 inch 6 blade steel fan with stock shroud. Shroud is important for fan to work efficiently.
--Smaller diameter Ford Fairmont water pump pulley (there's a fellow who makes nice machined equivalents)
--Edebrock water pump.
--180 degree thermostat (lower temp 160 degree is actually thermodynamically counterproductive and a thermostat should always be used)
--30 percent antifreeze. 70 percent distilled water. (water is better heat conductor)
-- Gano filter, checked and cleaned periodically.
--12 inch thermostatically controlled electric fan set for 200 degrees. (almost never comes on except in the worst traffic, and probably not crucial if all else is done)
-- Autometer 2254 sending unit. Pretty accurate and can be slightly calibrated with a few ohms of resistance in series.
-- I don't have an LAT hood with outlet vents, but it certainly helps to get the hot air out.

Besides the really obvious things to prevent recirculation of hot air through the radiator, I feel the most dramatic improvement was from the water pump, 6 blade fan and pulley.

How to cool the driver is the next challenge!.
 
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Doug C

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Thanks

Thanks I'am sure that this will not only help me BUT many others on this site as well.
 

pushrod

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Good information, thanks.

I'm one of the British cars that's planning to come over for next years TU. I was thinking of driving through Death Valley on to Vegas after the event. The idea would be to tackle the desert early in the morning and stop at Furnace Creek overnight. Then early morning drive to Vegas.

I'm running a 260 with around 220 bhp, aluminium racing spec radiator, flexi fan and electric fan. Horn holes etc blocked off, and an LAT hood. I'll fit a different thermostat and reduce the amount of antifreeze next spring, maybe add some Water Wetter as well.

What pressure radiator cap would you recommend?

Lou.
 

Warren

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50/50

I thought it was a bigger deal to go 50/50 on the anti freeze from a corrosion standpoint. I have a 13 lb cap as that is probably the max with a stock heater core.

I really got caught out and have added back a expansion tank and a slightly larger capacity Fluidyne . I had a Davis that had the E tank nipple removed and welded over.

Mike suggested to me the kitchen counter test with a candy thermometer then adding resistors but I've worn out my welcome in the kitchen and have taken the position that a coffee can or small pot and a torch heat to boil would be a good in car method. Gary H in Oregon gave me that idea.

I wanted to get a good start on a closer match resistance sending unit. Thanks Mike, and Gary
 

1966 TGR

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Pushrod: you are brave. Palm Springs was 122. They don't even report Death Valley on our weather, because it's always ridiculously hot. I definitely recommend "overdriving" the fan and pump with a smaller pulley if you can find one.

Warren, yes 50/50 is ideal for corrosion, but my radiator guy said 30 percent is plenty and of course still protects to well below freezing for us here in the southwest. I don't think it's a critical part of the equation so if you are more comfy with 40/60 or 50/50, go ahead. I'm running a 14 pound cap.
 

Hoghead

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--Smaller diameter Ford Fairmont water pump pulley (there's a fellow who makes nice machined equivalents)


Do you have any contact info?
 

Warren

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Gent in Ohio Fan pulley MFG

Prior to the trip I had checked with Robert W. in Ohio .

Today, I followed up with the following results.

He is out of stock and considering another production run stay tuned.
 

Hoghead

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Good because I have given up on finding a single sheave Ford one and am about to have one made.

I hope he considers doing it soon as machining from billet would be expensive and I would not know where to get is spun locally.

Do you have a pic?
 

pushrod

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Pushrod: you are brave. Palm Springs was 122. They don't even report Death Valley on our weather, because it's always ridiculously hot
Brave or mad! There was a song many years ago called "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun". Guess that goes for Welshmen also.

Here's a link to an article on engine coolant, this recommends 25% antifreeze for hot conditions. http://hellafunctional.com/?p=629.

Lou.
 

Warren

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Time

I have pitched the benefits of using the Forum to sell his products as well as going word of mouth like he has been doing for years. I also asked him if he was simply tired of selling them and wanted to send out a sample the club would probably be very happy to have a number of them spun up and sit on the inventory till they sell. I am following up this weekend. I'm not posting his number on a open forum page as he seemed to not like the idea of that. If he does make more I will see to the bare minimum of him being added in our White Pages area which is a member only area.
 

1966 TGR

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Yes, but be sure to check alignment with other pulleys for proper belt alignment. May require spacers or moving water pump hub since Tiger is different from other Ford applications.
 

Warren

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Autometer

Tried the sending unit with not so great results. Went to the Team Tiger's email list and searched the problem. "My water temperature is accurate up to 160 is then is way off."

I also looked at some YouTube Mustang videos and they pointed to the visually same voltage reducing under dash goodie which should also pulsate power to fuel or temp . The Tiger's United page says it should pulse power to both gauges and this is especially useful on fuel level as without it be a bouncing needle. So my running car's always had an appreciable needle raise or lower in a turn. The Mustang videos show the test light pulsing and mine doesn't.

Anyone had the same problem? The Tiger's United page has a multi meter test but doesn't say a test light would remain on if voltage regulator is defective. I've seen the part in SS catalog. Any thoughts before I further cannibalize my project car?
 

cobrakidz

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I survived many central valley 100+ days with a Dale's radiator and fan shroud, otherwise ran no more than 200 - 210 in traffic.
 

Hoghead

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I survived many central valley 100+ days with a Dale's radiator and fan shroud, otherwise ran no more than 200 - 210 in traffic.

I made my own reduced OD "Fairmont" billet aluminium fan pulley with the expected reduction in temperature, and now turning my attention to the fan shroud. The shroud could be a lot better if it actually enshrouded the fan.............

My Sister owns a full on CNC sheet metal shop, so before I reinvent the wheel and try and make a better shroud, does Dales shroud fit a stock Tiger using a stock or Griffin rad?

Does anyone make a full shroud that fits a Tiger with a stock front end?
 
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