I have a problem and I think it is due to fried diodes in my alternator. Does anyone who knows how all of the pieces that make up the charging system work have any thoughts on the problem?
What happened is the battery in my Mk II would run down due to inactivity and I would use a low-amp trickle charger to recharge the battery. The battery is not a lead-acid. When the battery would not hold the specified charge, I contacted the vendor, who told me that I should not have used a trickle charger with this type of battery. However, they gave me instructions to try to see if I could reset the battery’s memory. Part of the procedure required that I pull the battery out and turn it upside down to see if any liquid comes out. It didn’t. Unfortunately, when I put the battery back in, I put it in backwards and hooked up the cables to the wrong posts – so I hooked up the positive cable to the negative positive and the negative cable to the positive post. I proceeded to recharge the battery and noticed that it did not seem right, which is when I realized I had the cables reversed. I disconnected the battery and reversed it in the car and hooked up the cables correctly. I proceeded with their charging procedure to reset the battery memory, but to no avail – battery would not hold the right charge, even when I kept it disconnected from the car. So I bought a new battery. I checked the voltage before hooking it up and it was fine. After removing the two fuses in the stock wiring system, I installed it in the car, connected the positive cable, and got an arc when I went to connect the negative cable to the battery and heard a click from under the hood. Investigating more, the click came from my voltage regulator. (See the attached diagram.) I first disconnected the brown wire that runs from the starter solenoid switch to the A terminal on the voltage regulator. That did not make the “click” sound from the voltage regulator stop when connecting the ground cable to the battery.
I disconnected the thick brown wire from the starter solenoid to the alternator BAT terminal and repeated the test. This time, no “click” was heard from the voltage regulator. I left that wire disconnected but reconnected the wire from the starter solenoid to the voltage regulator and touched the grounding cable to the negative post of the battery. Again, no “click” when I touched the ground cable to the battery post.
I suspect that the diodes are letting electricity flow in the wrong direction back to the voltage regulator when the alternator is not producing power. I think this might be a result of connecting the battery up backwards.
Is it possible the problem lies in some other piece of equipment, such as the voltage regulator or the starter solenoid switch? Any other thoughts?
Thanks!
What happened is the battery in my Mk II would run down due to inactivity and I would use a low-amp trickle charger to recharge the battery. The battery is not a lead-acid. When the battery would not hold the specified charge, I contacted the vendor, who told me that I should not have used a trickle charger with this type of battery. However, they gave me instructions to try to see if I could reset the battery’s memory. Part of the procedure required that I pull the battery out and turn it upside down to see if any liquid comes out. It didn’t. Unfortunately, when I put the battery back in, I put it in backwards and hooked up the cables to the wrong posts – so I hooked up the positive cable to the negative positive and the negative cable to the positive post. I proceeded to recharge the battery and noticed that it did not seem right, which is when I realized I had the cables reversed. I disconnected the battery and reversed it in the car and hooked up the cables correctly. I proceeded with their charging procedure to reset the battery memory, but to no avail – battery would not hold the right charge, even when I kept it disconnected from the car. So I bought a new battery. I checked the voltage before hooking it up and it was fine. After removing the two fuses in the stock wiring system, I installed it in the car, connected the positive cable, and got an arc when I went to connect the negative cable to the battery and heard a click from under the hood. Investigating more, the click came from my voltage regulator. (See the attached diagram.) I first disconnected the brown wire that runs from the starter solenoid switch to the A terminal on the voltage regulator. That did not make the “click” sound from the voltage regulator stop when connecting the ground cable to the battery.
I disconnected the thick brown wire from the starter solenoid to the alternator BAT terminal and repeated the test. This time, no “click” was heard from the voltage regulator. I left that wire disconnected but reconnected the wire from the starter solenoid to the voltage regulator and touched the grounding cable to the negative post of the battery. Again, no “click” when I touched the ground cable to the battery post.
I suspect that the diodes are letting electricity flow in the wrong direction back to the voltage regulator when the alternator is not producing power. I think this might be a result of connecting the battery up backwards.
Is it possible the problem lies in some other piece of equipment, such as the voltage regulator or the starter solenoid switch? Any other thoughts?
Thanks!