Brake upgrades

EvertonTiger

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Guys,
Anyone recommend upgrade on brake system. Got my new tiger coming over to Europe from US and looking to improve brakes as running on fast German motorways.

Seen Wilwood system advertised, but hopefully you guys can help advise.
 

Duke Mk1a

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I would contact Dale A. (http://www.dalesresto.com/parts.html) and just get his front and back Wilwood kits. Easy install and you are finished.

I have the Wilwood on the front and they are fantastic. I have Mazda RX7 disks on the rear but those parts are way to hard to find now. I may go to the Wilwood on the rear in the future.

Dale is a supporting vendor and great member of the community. (http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=4494)
 

sandy

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michael-king

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Hoppers stoppers in Australia does a great front kit. They also have the advantage of providing new front hubs that can be done to other offsets at no extra charge and place the wheel bearings to the outside.

I know a few people with them who are very happy. A friend in uk put them on his tiger and was very happy. He does lots of comp events. They do require 15" wheels
 

EvertonTiger

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Bought

Hi Guys

Bought a front and rear set from Dale which I am having shipped over. Thanks for advice.

Sean
 

GrabberBlue

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Anybody been there, done that?

I have Dale's kits (front & rear). Ready to do the rears.

Easier / better to pull the axle or the hub?

The rear end only has 1k miles on the rebuild but the car has been parked for quite a while. Youngest recently graduated college so time to get her back on the road.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Derrick
 
Last edited:

tigerracer

Silver forum user
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73
I have Dale's kits (front & rear). Ready to do the rears.

Easier / better to pull the axle or the hub?

The rear end only has 1k miles on the rebuild but the car has been parked for quite a while. Youngest recently graduated college so time to get her back on the road.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Derrick

Hi Derrick, just remove the hubs.
 

67MKII

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Hi Derrick,
If you have Dale's rear Mustang brakes and rotors - you will need to pull the hubs. No need to pull the axel though.

I don't know about his Wilwood rear brakes. Maybe someone else can chime in about those (I would assume you would need to pull the hubs also)

John
 

GrabberBlue

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Thanks.

Dale responded that I could just remove the hubs.

What size is the castle nut? My 1 1/4" socket seems like it is just barely too small, 1 1/2 way too big. Is it 1 5/16" or 1 3/8"? Or is it metric?

Thanks again.

Derrick

PS Since is the only place I got an answer, you will probably be hearing more from me over the next few months. My apologies in advance.
 

67MKII

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No apologies needed here Derrick.
As you can see this forum welcomes questions.

There are so many knowledgeable people on this forum - if you don't get a direct answer to your question - you will get directions to where you can get the answer.

Welcome to the forum.

John
 

tigerracer

Silver forum user
Messages
73
Thanks.

Dale responded that I could just remove the hubs.

What size is the castle nut? My 1 1/4" socket seems like it is just barely too small, 1 1/2 way too big. Is it 1 5/16" or 1 3/8"? Or is it metric?

Thanks again.

Derrick

PS Since is the only place I got an answer, you will probably be hearing more from me over the next few months. My apologies in advance.

The factory axle nut is 1 1/4", I have seen replacement nuts that are 1 5/16"
 

GrabberBlue

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Next step. 1 5/16 did the trick. Now the hub. :mad:

Cranking on the 5 ton puller to the point where the screw bends noticeably and when I took it back off, the axle itself looks like I was getting machine out by the pressure screw. Keep cranking? Or heat? And if heat, would a good heat gun be enough or do I have to buy, borrow or steal a torch?

Picture is of the end of the axle.

And yes the castle nut is loose (and flipped after I took it off).

Thanks.

Derrick
 

0neoffive

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Shock Value

Next step. 1 5/16 did the trick. Now the hub. :mad:

Cranking on the 5 ton puller to the point where the screw bends noticeably and when I took it back off, the axle itself looks like I was getting machine out by the pressure screw. Keep cranking? Or heat? And if heat, would a good heat gun be enough or do I have to buy, borrow or steal a torch?

Picture is of the end of the axle.

And yes the castle nut is loose (and flipped after I took it off).

Thanks.

Derrick

Do not over tighten !!! When you have it really snug and straining, rap the end of the screw with a BFH. Works for us all the time.
 

GrabberBlue

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Pounded pretty hard. Axle is still in the rear end. Not going to hurt anything in the differential! Used a carpenter's hammer. Pounding on it with my 2 pound "mini sledge" seems a bit much. I still have a 16 pound sledge. That B a FH?
 

steven

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875
We copied a puller from the STOC site, it is a heavy puller that has 4 holes to attach the puller to the wheel studs. The centre of the puller has a large nut threaded with the same thread as the axle. Using a bolt same size and thread, screw it down to the axle hub. As well you need a long bar welded to the puller that will reach the floor to stop the puller turning. Then using a very long bar wind the large bolt into the axle end and slowly pull the hub.
 

tigerracer

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