Steering rack..

ramseyt

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
115
Shell Spirax 90 E.P

I used Redline oil in my top loader and steering rack. They offer a blend that specifically states that it will not attack yellow metals in older designs. A local power transmission service will likely have what you need. I researched the Redline website http://www.redlineoil.com/ and bought mine online.
 

Warren

Gold forum user
Messages
3,872
Filling

In regards to filling I had removed my rack, fetched it down to Autocross.
My fellow owners gave the rack their once over and in the American Language splained the ins and outs of the shimming. Thanks Dan, and Bob!

Like a dope I went home adjusted the shims put on new rubbers sloshed it full of the 1/2 pint plus a squeeze for good measure and threw it together.

Next day going back and reading the posts later, the Sulphur issue came up, DOH!

I was back to my how do I add oil to the rack while in the car. Well time to call on my Rube Goldberg DNA.

But first how did I get past the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" Well I broke it first.
The car had sat for 20 years and I went thru all fluids BUT the rack another NUBE error. Feeling very smart I went thru the old email list and decided to follow the well worn steps of previous lazy and crafty Goldbergians.

I jacked up the car at a 20 degree angle or so and removed the outboard metal clip. "I had already removed the lower clamp and let out any old fluid,"
It was dry. I put the wheel over to the extend the rack and started squirt in oil with a section of old motorcycle fuel line and a steel nozzle from a old oil can just like the Tin man from the land of Oz. As I happily squirted the oil in I worked the rack back and forth then left the rack hard over and went for a break. When I returned the convolute that was extended split in 1/2 and all my new oil lay on the floor, Boo Hoo...

Okay back to the rebuilt rack with the GL5 oil in it. Same 25-30 lift but from Drivers side. removed large white Sunbeam Speciality WHITE zip tie, "I wanted to put on black ones anyway," and drained out all the oil same amount came out as went in when bench filling per sacred Red Sunbeam Shop Manuel. This time laziness really set in and a funnel with the same hose connection was used with a funnel on top and relax while gravity did my work, no more turkey baster like syringe squirting.

All full of the Redline oil now with out removing the radiator the rack and Holy cow, changing tie rod ends then setting the toe in what a PIA that was!
 

Warren

Gold forum user
Messages
3,872
Olefin Sulfate

conventional gear oils ( non synthetic ) have a sulfur/phosphorus extreme pressure additive. that's the reason for the awful smell. this is what attacks the yellow metals and starts a corrosion process that can't be reversed. if you have syncro rings in your trans never use conventional 80/90. gear oils being blended today do meet API GL5 specs .

I thought I found some and it was on sale as the local OSH is going out of business.

Went home looked up the unknown ingredient and the site I looked said the bad properties of the Sulphur was offset by another ingredient. It was Bob the oil guy,off a Google search.
So is Bob the oil guy full of it?
I'd add the link bit posting from tiny phone today.
 

65beam

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
1,827
rack

warren,
my name is BOB and I am an oil guy. that means I have been an oil company rep for several decades. my statement on conventional gear oils is based on all of my training which started way back in the 80's. i'll leave it at that.
 

TigerBlue

Gold forum user
Messages
827
No

Warren and Bob or Bob or Warren. Let's not leave it at that. Please.

I would like the link (Bob's) Warren found? About sulfur antidote additive what???

Also whats good/best in a toploader?

Whats good/best in a dana 44 posi?

Whats good/best in a dana 44 with Torsen type geared limited slip?

Rick
 
Last edited:

Warren

Gold forum user
Messages
3,872
Link

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=516757

Here is the link.

Just been at every auto parts store looking for a GL4 oil and this was the only one I could find that was even GL4

I have since drained the GL5 I had in the steering rack and gone with Redline synthetic and only want to avoid changing the less than 1000 mile trans fluid.

How many Tiger owners have some one fill the trans for them with no concern what so ever? Not me.

This is a place for discussion and posting of results. Maybe I will get a shiny brass key drop it in a cup with GL5 oil and report after 6 months.
Oh wait then leave it on top of the stove to simulate the heating and cooling of being in a car,that would go over well with the MRS.
 

michael-king

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
4,132
Penrite make classic car specific oils, i spoke to their rep about oil for the top loader that was non sulfur, they recommended;

penrite MANUAL GEAR 70 gear oil 70W-75 API - GL4 plus
 

ToyTrainGuy

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
162
Just a follow up, I did send both of my steering racks to Tom Hall. The "clunky" one in the car & the original MK2 one that I let rust in the shed since I thought I had bent it in a fender bender in 1978. Hopefully he will be able to take the best parts from both of them to make a good one.

I spoke to Doug Jennings at the TE-United about lots of things & he said that he has experience repairing them also.
 

tiger260

Gold forum user
Messages
425
Bit of a thread resurrection going on here.

I can't seem to find anyone over here (UK) who rebuilds tiger racks so it looks like I'm going to have to do it myself.

Any hints, tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated as I am stepping into the unknown here.
The reason for the strip down is that the rack is very lumpy particularly when the spring and shoe are in place and it feels tighter than it should and I can't figure out why.

I've taken the liberty of posting a few vids to try and demonstrate the lumpiness.

Click on the pics for the vids.









Thanks.
 

Jeff F

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
143
A little bit of input I can give you...

The rack in my car had a split boot and all the oil had leaked out long ago. Not knowing any better, it was driven like that for some time. I took it out while doing an engine refresh, and found that the shoe was very worn (no surprise there, with no oil!) to the point that it didn't have any spring tension on it. That explained why the rack was so sloppy. I re-shimmed everything and had to make a spacer for the shoe to get the right tension, and put on new boots and oil.

Before I put the oil in, and even after, it had what you could describe as "lumpiness"; a kind of stick-slip friction that kept it from being smooth. Once in the car it was fine-- the level of forces on the rack when actually steering the car are much greater than the friction, so you don't get that stick-slip. Even with the wheels off the ground, you cant feel it at the wheel because of the leverage. Remember that you are dealing with a metal-on-metal shoe, and it doesn't have any lube when it's apart.

For oil I used Pennzoil Syncromesh. It is compatible with yellow metals (bronze, brass, copper). I also used it in the trans, and have been using it in other transmissions (T5's Tremecs, etc.) for years with good results.
 

ramseyt

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
115
My thoughts

If the lumpiness is still there when you assemble without the spring then you need an additional shim on the gasket surface. I had the same problem and didn't have any more shims so I turned a few thou off of the cup/shoe and the problem went away. I think the spring is to prevent play and the cup is limited by the plate to maintain full/solid engagement.
 

tiger260

Gold forum user
Messages
425
Thanks for the info guys. Much appreciated.

I plan on taking the rack completely to pieces and giving all the parts a thorough clean and inspection before I start to iron out the lumpiness in it's operation.

Can anyone explain how to disassemble the knuckle joints at each end of the rac that the steering arms are fixed into?

Thanks.
 

cadreamn67

Platinum Forum Member
Messages
608
I have not taken my Tiger rack and pinion unit apart, but I have done a couple of MG Midget racks that I have on my Tiger. From the pictures you have posted, they both look like they have a lot in common with a MGA unit.

Have a look at how to service a MGA rack at http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/steering/sr201.htm.

There is a section on disassembling those knuckles. Not an easy undertaking in the article or in my garage. What I found that really helped is putting a 1/4 inch key way piece in the side grooves on the knuckle housing and them grabbing them with a pipe wrench. The relatively thin edged end plates with the threaded stud is held in a vice. Heat and a long pipe on the end of the pipe wrench finally got things apart. The vice did somewhat damage the part held in it but that cleaned up with a little file work. Do not want to leave any sharp edges to tear any boot material as things move back and forth.

Hope some of all that is helpful and things go well.:)

Cheers, Gene
 

tiger260

Gold forum user
Messages
425
A little update.

I got the rack to pieces and cleaned and checked all the parts. All seemed fine.

I reassembled and reset the gaps for the pinion which had become a bit baggy over the years and then the shoe to Workshop manual settings and the rack was still tight and lumpy.

I added 0.003" to the shoe and that reduced the lumpness a little to the point where I decided I could live with it.

Judging by the strength of the spring, which is significant, and the manual settings, I feel it is inevitable that the rack won't move completely smoothly due to the sheer pressure being put through the shoe but if that's how it should be then so be it.

Many Thanks to all for your help and thanks for the e-mail Gene.
Extremely helpful as usual.
 

cadreamn67

Platinum Forum Member
Messages
608
Thanks for the update. Your success is also our success, always good to know any attempt to be helpful was actually helpful.:)

Once everything is back on the car and things have had a chance to "break in" new wear patterns, I for one would be interested to know if you feel anything unexpected in the steering.

Cheers, Gene
 
Top