Front hub Bearing End Float.

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tiger260

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Hi all.

I have a problem that hopefully you can help we with.

I've been reassembling my front suspension and have got to the point where I have to set the end float on the hub bearings.

According to the manual there should be an end float of between 0.002" to 0.007" so I set it in accordance with the worshop manual by torquing up the nut and then releasing it until the required end float was achieved.

I made a little fixture to measure the end float.


I set the bearings at both sides to around 0.003".

Now, with the road wheel reattached, when I put my hands at the top and bottom of the wheel and rock it, there is a bit of play and an audible clunk.

Is this normal?
How do you set your bearings?

Many Thanks.
 
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0neoffive

0neoffive

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Engineering Over Kill ??

KISS: Just had this conversation with a DMV State Inspector over the slop in on old Cabriolet wheel bearing.

Basically, a cone bearing is a cone bearing is a . . . . . . .snug it up until there is no lash, then back it off just enough so things turn free without going "clunk" or other such noises. As with anything of advanced age, check it after a bit of use.

Like the tool design, though.
 
T

tiger260

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Thanks for the great info guys.

Perhaps I have been over analysing it a little and got carried away.:eek:
I do tend to do that.

I decided to tidy up the track rod ends the other day and it quickly got out of hand and turned into a full on refurb.






When you say snug, is that the same a nipping it up?
 
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Tomaselli

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An 'audible clunk' certainly doesn't sound right. Best make sure all is well before any spirited driving.

I saw this happen to the Monster Tiger at Goodwood a few years back, clearly a weak point in the design. Then again, it's off a Hillman Husky Van, so what to expect...

_U6K6135_zps5be0748b.jpg




Didn't want to run that risk, so I've fitted much larger outer whell bearings which hopefully should spread the load.

Standard bearing on the left...

IMG_4245-low-res_zpsdb3fa893.jpg


IMG_4247-low-res_zps12ed277e.jpg


An easy enough conversion/upgrade, by just getting a capable machine shop to machine a deeper recess to accept the bearing. You'll need a deeper outer race also. :D Cheers,
 
T

tiger260

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425
I've followed Randy's instructions on one side and the click has gone.

The result is that the nut is now 1/12th of a revolution tighter than it was.

Thanks guys!
 
0neoffive

0neoffive

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Nice adaptation

Tomaselli said:
An 'audible clunk' certainly doesn't sound right. Best make sure all is well before any spirited driving.

I saw this happen to the Monster Tiger at Goodwood a few years back, clearly a weak point in the design. Then again, it's off a Hillman Husky Van, so what to expect...

_U6K6135_zps5be0748b.jpg




Didn't want to run that risk, so I've fitted much larger outer whell bearings which hopefully should spread the load.

Standard bearing on the left...

IMG_4245-low-res_zpsdb3fa893.jpg


IMG_4247-low-res_zps12ed277e.jpg


An easy enough conversion/upgrade, by just getting a capable machine shop to machine a deeper recess to accept the bearing. You'll need a deeper outer race also. :D Cheers,
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input on this. Our machinist will find a set of hubs on his bench in the AM. What's the bearing # and manufacturer of the larger animal?
best regards
 
michael-king

michael-king

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the fronts are doing the hard yards on your car.. not just stopping.. but dealing with your line lock! I've seen your youtube vids... :p
 
T

Tomaselli

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0neoffive said:
What's the bearing # and manufacturer of the larger animal?
Click to expand...

Make sure you get a quality bearing, I always use Timken and must be 'Made in USA' :D:D

Timken 09074 for the bearing and 09195 for the outer race. Plenty on eBay and cheap as chips.

A decent machinist will recess a pair of hubs in no time :)
 
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0neoffive

0neoffive

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2,861
Thanks

Tomaselli said:
Make sure you get a quality bearing, I always use Timken and must be 'Made in USA' :D:D

Timken 09074 for the bearing and 09195 for the outer race. Plenty on eBay and cheap as chips.

A decent machinist will recess a pair of hubs in no time :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the upgrade info. Long story made short; got stranded 300 miles from home base once due to those mini tapers. Thankfully, the tow guy knew a guy who knew a guy, etc. . . . . . . . .
 
0neoffive

0neoffive

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Ponder Ponder

Duke Mk1a said:
Any idea what the Wilwood conversion is using? Randy?
Click to expand...

Hmmmmm; now that you mention it, I plumb forgot to note that !! Will dig into the spec sheet later. That aluminum hub creation of theirs could be different in the cone bearing selection? They do list replacement part numbers . . . . .
 
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