Alignment Question

B

big_mike_85614

Guest
I have a MK1A that I just finished rebooting the steering rack. I also replaced the tie rod ends.

So it needs alignment.

According to the factory manual you need to do a bunch of stuff, like put 300 lbs of weight on the front, make a wood piece to brace the rear, etc.

Does this need to be done?

Thanks
 

cadreamn67

Platinum Forum Member
Messages
608
Could not get the foreign car specialist I used to consider doing anything like that. Came out okay as far as I know.

Next time I have it done I may throw in some big bags of pet food on the driver's side to simulate at least partly driver weight loading.

BTW, if you like to throw your car around on corners, you might consider having a little negative camber dialed to to help keep the wheels flatter on the ground a little bit longer to offset some of the "bad" in the stock suspension geometry design.

Gene
 

0neoffive

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
2,853
Pile it on

I have a MK1A that I just finished rebooting the steering rack. I also replaced the tie rod ends.

So it needs alignment.

According to the factory manual you need to do a bunch of stuff, like put 300 lbs of weight on the front, make a wood piece to brace the rear, etc.

Does this need to be done?

Thanks

For general use, we throw 160 lbs. of garden soil (or moo poo) in each seat. The garden gets the spoils after alignment . . . . .
 

at the beach

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
904
I'd like to toss in my 2 cents.

I've found if you do the alignment with everything loaded the way you'll be using it that the car will handle great.

In other words if you're going on a 3-thousand mile trip and will be carrying a lot of weight don't be shy about doing the alignment with your actual load, including driver and passenger. On the other hand if you normally drive the car without any load other than the driver then just have the driver's weight included when you do the alignment.

As far as alignment numbers, I shim the crossmember with a 1/8" shim to add a little more caster (I hope to get caster up near 5 degrees.)

I set the camber at -1/2 and then I set the toe for as little toed "out" as possible. I don't toe "in" because I'm trying to minimize the Ackerman problem that's designed into the Tiger.

bt
at the beach
 

0neoffive

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
2,853
Dialed In

I'd like to toss in my 2 cents.

I've found if you do the alignment with everything loaded the way you'll be using it that the car will handle great.

In other words if you're going on a 3-thousand mile trip and will be carrying a lot of weight don't be shy about doing the alignment with your actual load, including driver and passenger. On the other hand if you normally drive the car without any load other than the driver then just have the driver's weight included when you do the alignment.

As far as alignment numbers, I shim the crossmember with a 1/8" shim to add a little more caster (I hope to get caster up near 5 degrees.)

I set the camber at -1/2 and then I set the toe for as little toed "out" as possible. I don't toe "in" because I'm trying to minimize the Ackerman problem that's designed into the Tiger.

bt
at the beach

Gee; those numbers are how the ancient NASCAR guys set up my Tiger way back in 68 . . . . . .(from the memories files).
 

hottigr

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
816
directions...

For general use, we throw 160 lbs. of garden soil (or moo poo) in each seat. The garden gets the spoils after alignment . . . . .

Not to be too specific, but you do leave it in the bag, right:D
 
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