Tie Rod End - Boots

For those interested, here is a source / supplier for Tie Rod Dust Boots.
A pair, cost $3.31 plus shipping, they come in Black or Red. It took all but 30 minutes to replace both sides. The new "stock" rubber
boots these days don't last, so I'm going to use these, which are manufactured out of Polyurethane.
Enclosed is a picture of my old rubber boots which are less than 2 years old. Have you checked your boots lately?

P/N: 9.13103R - note! the "R" may be for red
contact: EnergySuspensionParts.com

PS. I bought from NAPA auto supply, a $9.95 Tie Rod end removal tool. Tire must be removed to use it,
works great, about 3 or 4 hits with a ball peen hammer, and it off.

Attached: pictures

What part number did you use?


Part Number 9.13101
Part Number 9.13103
Part Number 16.13101
Part Number 16.13102

Probably the one in the pic..............

pin bolt

Hi Tim, maybe it's an optical illusion but in the upper left corner of your third picture (shot from the driver's side) it looks like one of your fulcrum pin bolts is coming loose, it appears that the lock washer isn't under compression.

Maybe you were doing other work on the car.

Also, thanks for the heads up on the cover.

Bob J.

loose bolt!

Bob, Pictures are Great!! and I think your right, I'll check this after noon, after church.
Thank you, plus I added / edited my post showing part number, and a picture of the Tie
Rod removal tool. Thanks,
Tim <><

venice532 said:

Hi Tim, maybe it's an optical illusion but in the upper left corner of your third picture (shot from the driver's side) it looks like one of your fulcrum pin bolts is coming loose, it appears that the lock washer isn't under compression.

Maybe you were doing other work on the car.

Also, thanks for the heads up on the cover.

Bob J.

Click to expand...

Bob, they say that a picture is worth a thousands words!!
I would like to tell you, that the picture of my cars front end, and mainly the fulcrum pins bolts, that picture! and your keen observation, to detail, probably just saved my live! Priceless!!!!

I want to thank you, for being bold enough to say what you thought, a safety concern, for someone else. Thank you, all eight bolts were loose!! Thank you, Tim Morin<><

Good Reminder - Great Observation

Bob's observations probably did prevent a serious incident. Way to go, Bob!

This is a good reminder for all of us to check the torque on these bolts. I had checked mine about six months ago, and three of the bolts were basically finger tight! One of them had about 1/4" play in it and I was surprised that I did not have something worse happen. Per my copy of the Rootes Workshop manual, the lower fulcrum pin bolts should be torqued to 32 ft-lbs and the upper fulcrum pin bolts to 48 ft-lbs.

The Age Factor

texastigert said:

Bob, they say that a picture is worth a thousands words!!
I would like to tell you, that the picture of my cars front end, and mainly the fulcrum pins bolts, that picture! and your keen observation, to detail, probably just saved my live! Priceless!!!!

I want to thank you, for being bold enough to say what you thought, a safety concern, for someone else. Thank you, all eight bolts were loose!! Thank you, Tim Morin<><

Click to expand...

Caution: In the process of rebuilding front cross members for owners, we have noticed that the inner plate where the fulcrum bolts fasten gets seriously rusted and thread worn. In many cases torque will not hold as age, wear & mother nature win. As a remedy we almost always weld in grade 8 backup nuts for safe measure. 2-cents

0neoffive said:

Caution: In the process of rebuilding front cross members for owners, we have noticed that the inner plate where the fulcrum bolts fasten gets seriously rusted and thread worn. In many cases torque will not hold as age, wear & mother nature win. As a remedy we almost always weld in grade 8 backup nuts for safe measure. 2-cents

Click to expand...

Quick question, how and where do you weld in backup nuts / plates?? Is there a different thread on this? Tim<><

bolts

Hi Tim, I'm glad that my practice of giving unsolicited advice on topics I barely know anything about is finally paying dividends.

When I rebuilt my crossmember I cleaned out the threads with a thread chaser (not a tap) and they all looked pretty good.

I did use anti seize paste on the bolts for the benefit of the next person that had to take the assembly apart.

Bob J.

Not An Easy Fix

texastigert said:

Quick question, how and where do you weld in backup nuts / plates?? Is there a different thread on this? Tim<><

Click to expand...

The nut thread is 3/8" X 24 tpi and they are added to the back side of the factory mount plate while we are in there bracing the member anyway. The old Guru may also access the plate location by slicing thru wherever he needs to and weld things back together once done. Not for the novice, which he ain't.