Clutch master, slave or pressure plates

Growler

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199
I would appreciate some advice on where to start...got in the car today and noticed that the engine is slipping. By that I mean when the clutch is out and I accelerate, no power to the trans... Just revs. After two blocks just getting it up (a typical) driveway was "iffy". I checked the reservoir -all full. Have not checked the slave yet (still figuring out where it hides and how to get to it) for leaks. But wondering what the check list would be in terms of likely hood and cost. I can rebuild a slave as I have done it on other cars, but to take the clutch apart is beyond me....
 

TigerBlue

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827
Slip

Sounds like the clutch is just slipping! Is this a new build or ??? I would guess but oil (a lot) might cause this. What do you know about the clutch installed?

Rick
 

michael-king

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CAT Member
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4,132
I'm with rick... Likely to be clutch slip, if it was mc/slave you would struggle to engage gears not put power down the flywheel in theory could be causing it if there was fluid on it... But you'd likely smell it.

Also if it gets worse as Warmer its more likely your clutch is gone
 

Warren

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3,872
Poll

It would not be a bad idea to see if the slave is actively engaging and completely disengaging. My last one became very choppy before I replaced it mostly due to the proximity to the headers. If you get it up on stands and check its action will be easy to see. It does sound like a bad clutch though but makes sense to rule out the 15 minute look n see.

How fresh is the clutch and hydraulics?
 

0neoffive

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2,853
Smell This

Although it is possible to extend the slave rod out enough to slip the clutch, my aged/experienced opinion is to damn the clutch disc. It's a big job and not for amateurs. Things like not sealing the flywheel-to-crank bolts or rear main issues will let in enough oil to cause disc slippage. If no oil seepage is noted at the bottom of the bell housing, then it probably has had a few too many hot starts.
 

Growler

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Messages
199
Thanks for the responses . Since I never have any problem getting in/out of gear and there is no grinding, it sounds like a clutch. In the past, I did smell what I thought was a burning going while starting on a hill. I've had the car for about 3 years, not a new build so I don't know much about the internals....looks like I'll be taking it in to the shop.
 

Maliburevue

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220
Cause of clutch problem

This is a common problem with Tigers that have the original close ratio (2.32 first gear) transmission. First gear is too tall for starting out, especially up a hill. This leads to having to rev the engine to keep it from dying and burning up the clutch until you get the car going fast enough to let the clutch all the way out. This is really bad for stoplight to stoplight racing. What's that smell??? Hmmmm, fried clutch. To compensate Tiger owners used to put in 3.31 or 3.54 rearend gears, but then your engine would be spinning 3500 rpm at 70 mph... or they would put in dual disc clutches and high performance pressures plates thinking the problem was an inadequate clutch.

IMHO the problem has always been the transmission gearing. Even the factory realized this and switched to the wide ratio toploader for the MKIIs, while keeping the 2.88 rearend gears. Personally I run a wide ratio toploader with a 2.90 first gear and 2.88s. The hole shot is fabulous behind my 331 stroker, and because the mechanical leverage is so good with the low first gear, I get by just fine with a single disc Centerforce clutch and I can even let the clutch out at idle without the engine dying. And now that first gear is so low, I am going to install 2.72 rearend gears for a 6% overdrive.

Gary
 

SYZonker

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Messages
10
Another problem can happen with 302's with the 1 piece rear main seal is the flywheel to crankshaft bolt holes are drilled all the way through and go into the oil pan area and create an oil sepage in the threads .. this lets oil right onto the face of the clutch.. You must use Tread sealant for those bolts.. I mention this as it MAY apply to the earlier 260 and 289's with 2 piece seals... I have an early 260 in storage without flywheel on it (I think) if that is the case I can check it tumrow (sp)(cant speel) ..


Ok .. I went and checked the end of the crankshaft.. The flywheel bolt holes DO go all the way through to the oil pan area.. So be sure to use a thread sealant on those bolts.
 
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TigerBlue

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Messages
827
Driver technique

There are a number of deadly sins in driving a car with a clutch/manual trans.

A few that come to mind.

Holding position on a hill by slipping clutch. (unnecessary wear)

Leaving the trans in gear with clutch depressed at a signal. (shortens life of the throwout bearing)

Resting left foot on the clutch/riding the clutch. (causes wear on all the above.)

Used properly (slip tires not clutch) even aggressive driving need not wear out a clutch prematurely.

Rick
 

0neoffive

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2,853
1/2" Extra

When replacing the clutch in a Tiger, I always (no exceptions) make certain to use the 10-1/2" disc and matching pressure plate. The extra 1/2" over the 260/289 stock 10" makes a world of difference on wear factor. For beefier motor builds, we generally up the ante to 11" zero balance set-ups.
 

michael-king

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4,132
Clutches:

As I'm guessing this us the next question... Which do people recommended.

Lots of people like the McLeod clutch.
Many performance guys run the centreforce setup, good grip long lasting and nice pedal from all reports.
I have the 10.5 king cobra ford racing clutch... Goodvwear and bite but very heavy pedal compared to all others I've driven.
 

Growler

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Messages
199
Michael, correct on what the next question is.... What is recommended. I always thought that the pedal was very heavy and would prefer a little lighter feel. Does the lager diameter (10.5") or a multiple disc clutch get me that? Keeping in mind the desire for a lighter touch, what direction should I go in?

Also following up on the potential for the issue to be oil, I think it is unlikely as there is no signs at the bell housing bottom. Either way, not the M/C, slave or hose so I suppose it is getting taken apart.
 

Growler

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Messages
199
Can you (everyone) please rate the clutches mentioned (McLeod, Centerforce, King Cobra or any others they have experience with) in terms of feel (heavy/soft,short ,long etc), durability (used for normal street driving, racing, etc) and longevity... Or any other comments/opinions. Thanks.
 

67 Tiger

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Messages
298
Read This

Before you or your mechanic start this job you should read the article in the Sept. 1978 issue of Tiger Tales. "Then you go DOWN." I believe this is the best way to do a clutch. Also check the trans tunnel at the top, to see if a p.o. has drilled holes to get access to the 2 top bolts on the bellhousing.
 

Growler

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Messages
199
Before you or your mechanic start this job you should read the article in the Sept. 1978 issue of Tiger Tales. "Then you go DOWN." I believe this is the best way to do a clutch. Also check the trans tunnel at the top, to see if a p.o. has drilled holes to get access to the 2 top bolts on the bellhousing.

Can you send me this article from 1978 or point me to where it may be posted?
 

HolyCat

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1,241
Tiger Tale Archives

Can you send me this article from 1978 or point me to where it may be posted?

Many of the past editions of the Tiger Tales are available in the CAT member section of the Forum. Some of the members have been working hard to scan the past newsletters and to post them in the CAT member section. I believe the Tiger Tales from 1978 have been completed, but other editions are still being worked on.
 

hottigr

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816
Can you (everyone) please rate the clutches mentioned (McLeod, Centerforce, King Cobra or any others they have experience with) in terms of feel (heavy/soft,short ,long etc), durability (used for normal street driving, racing, etc) and longevity... Or any other comments/opinions. Thanks.

I have had the McLeod clutch set up that I bought from S.S. for the last 25 years. IIRC, it's the version where Rick takes off every other spring to reduce the pressure from around 2200 lbs. to about 1700 lbs. The pedal is stout, but not overly so. As the springs have become stiffer over the last few years it has taxed the stock hydraulics at times (stop and go traffic will sometimes get the throw-out bearing squealing), but, the clutch has always been up to the job with a 302. Kirk.
 
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