B9471122 rebirth

steven

Gold forum user
Messages
875
Here are some, the Tiger is stripped ready for the rotisseri when I remove the rear end and fuel tanks. The images show great floors and trunk floor, also have started the rebuild, removing part of the damaged front wing. Oops, tried to upload, the system said no even after I reduced them to about 28Kbts. :confused:

Admin helped with photos ;)
 
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steven

Gold forum user
Messages
875
Ok, the right front fender/guard is off. delighted with the exposed metal. all good. One thing I have found, the tiger upper rear attachment was a leaded spot weld from the corner of the engine bay to the top portion of the a piller (door). The replacement fender has a full weld at that position so I may defer to a expert. I am tending to remove the left fender as well, it has been hit and on further inspection, has been repaired before. Oh well, more spot welds to drill. Oh Happy times.:)
 

steven

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Messages
875
It has been a while, nothing much except stripping going on, finally fitted the car body to the rotisseri I bought, waited till today when I had a Sunbeam Club meeting at our place, the good old aussie BBQ. A few friends helped me lift the tiger verticle and it will stay that way for a while while I finaly seperate the right rear fender and strip the underneath and floor. The only damage underneath is 2 jagged cuts/breaks on the inner side of box section rear at the top of the rear wheel arch, left side, like something was welded there and ripped out. ? Oh well will keep on plugging along and pass on results as they happen:D
 

0neoffive

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CAT Member
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2,853
Applause!

You certainly deserve merit for sticking with it . . . .Every now and then a trailer pulls into the shop with an "all apart" project and a frustrated owner looking to hand it off to someone more patient. Hang in there, mate. Once the body is straight, it's all just nuts & bolts. Don't keep track of your man-hours though. It's too scary. . . . . . . .
 

Warren

Gold forum user
Messages
3,872
Rust Gel

Hi, Tiger Blue has kindly offered to help me images of this new adventure. Started by opening the right door, took a while but acheived. Next saga was to strip the bonnet (hood) as it had paint damage and showing corrosion. Went well with the new abrasive pads for grinders, down side, found some damage (minor) and the noise. We live in suburbia and the council (local gov) has stated the major work should be checking oil and water on a car. Soooo may change back to paint stripper (its quiet if I don't swear at it). Hope to show images as it progresses. Oh, also received new tool for drilling out the spot welds. Yippeee fun times again

Hi I tried some Rust Release super gel which seems to be the same as the Evaporust product but with a thickening agent. I did my heater core trough and it was painless and aside from the snot like wiping was a good fix. It does leave the black oxide which may then be later treated with a light wipe of phosphoric acid to convert the iron oxide to iron phosphate, then painted.
I have to do some light areas in the foot well too but that can wait.

Maybe you have seen this : http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

But I found myself daydreaming of a time when I could drop the car into a vacant swimming pool full of sodium carbonate. I told my hot rod friends and they laughed " we know a guy that did that in Central Cali. with a bin used for picked tomatoes" he dropped the whole car in there. Sans motor etc... I am sure. W.
 

cobrakidz

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2,289
wow, you get a lot of "man" points for tackling this big of a project. When I was younger this would have been fun, now I don't have the patience for this. Good luck and keep the pics coming.
 

steven

Gold forum user
Messages
875
Hi Warrin, I am going to do the electrolisis thing, a brother in law owns a big business so i asked him for some anodes ( building steel) he said how many, 10 thousand, I said how about 6. Now I am finding a 20 litre plastic drum that the steel anodes go on the outsides and the tiny/big Tiger part goes in the centre. So after I rebuild all the threads with taps and dies, heat them up and through them into the hot oil, I will then get all the other parts showing any signs of corrosion and give them a bath with the battery providing the restore. all good.
 

steven

Gold forum user
Messages
875
Oh on the other comments, been married 3 times, have 5 wonderful sons and 4 great grandkids. Have a great series 5 Alpine and a 7Meter Motor home I built from a imported Coach in Japan. Health is so so, so this big build is going to be special and good, it may not reach any awards, but, bugger it, I don't care, if it looks good in my opinion, thats all that matters.:D:D:D:D
 

steven

Gold forum user
Messages
875
Oops. keep it hapening. Today, 35C degrees, bloody hot, went to doctors and had another 2 skin cancers cut/burnt out. So what do you do after taking the wife shopping for 3 hours, get home, put on the denim and gloves etc and hit the rear guard for stripping. Yippee after 1.5 hrs only 60% of paint gone, looks like 2 pack primer/filler underneath. Now skin starting to get a bit hurtful, have a couple of scotches and re visit the paint removal tomorrow.:D:D:D:D
 

steven

Gold forum user
Messages
875
3 days of stripping, takes a while and a good deal of stripper to get it all off. On the possitive side, it is all metal with some filler from a earlier dent/gouge. Now only rest of car to go. Oh, by the way 3 days at 2 hours per day, that stripper is foul, remember it from 9 years ago when I did the Alpine. Gee I don't remember it getting into everything, can smell it after a shower so limit the stripping to slowly. Oh a chap local is selling a 289 early block with origional bore (6 bolt) with crank, pistons rods, heads etc at the moment its going for $290, a bit tempted not knowing what my 260 condition is. Oh well don't have the storage for another engine as well.
 

michael-king

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CAT Member
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4,132
Oh a chap local is selling a 289 early block with origional bore (6 bolt) with crank, pistons rods, heads etc at the moment its going for $290, a bit tempted not knowing what my 260 condition is. Oh well don't have the storage for another engine as well.


Steven, i think you will find your engine and bellhousing are 5 bolt.. if you go to the 289 6 bolt you will need the bellhousing that adapts the 6 bolt block to the narrow ear toploader that your car will have if the trans is original to it.
 

cadreamn67

Platinum Forum Member
Messages
608
You would also need a different clutch slave cylinder mounting bracket. It is also possible that the bell housing that will adapt the narrow box trans to the 6 bolt block will have a larger hole for the trans input retainer bearing than what is on the narrow box trans. If so, that bearing housing on your trans would also have to be changed.

Cheers, Gene
 

Tiger tamer

Gold forum user
Messages
318
It is also possible that the bell housing that will adapt the narrow box trans to the 6 bolt block will have a larger hole for the trans input retainer bearing than what is on the narrow box trans. If so, that bearing housing on your trans would also have to be changed.

Or you could have a adapter ring machined up to fill the space.
 

chirodoc

Gold forum user
Messages
281
6 BOLT ENGINE

The engine may be reasonabally priced but to switch over to the 6 bolt engine, you are looking at bigger costs over the engine! $ 1000 plus for a Quicktime dual bolt pattern bellhousing, a new slave cylinder bracket, a Centerforce clutch, and a new throwout arm. The engine probably needs the crank reground with new rings and bearings, a new cam w/ lifters, and a valve job with hardened inserts for unleaded gas, another $1000.00 plus.
 

steven

Gold forum user
Messages
875
Thanks for the comments, sanity prevaled, will stick with the 260. Meanwhile, zipidi do da, the body work continues. Oh, I removed the fuel pump and lines today. Is the existing fuel pump known for wear? if so are replacements/parts available? :D:D
 

michael-king

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CAT Member
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4,132
Thanks for the comments, sanity prevaled, will stick with the 260. Meanwhile, zipidi do da, the body work continues. Oh, I removed the fuel pump and lines today. Is the existing fuel pump known for wear? if so are replacements/parts available? :D:D

The origiinal SU pumps are a known PITA, Sunbeam Specialties sells an upgraded one IIRC. Also if you are gogin to keep it in the stock location look at making a heat sheild for it.. or do as many do and move it to the boot as per MKII.. safer and less likely to suffer heat soak.
 

steven

Gold forum user
Messages
875
Here is the email I sent to our Sunbeam club today, hope the images work.
Oops bugger they don't


Thanks to the willing Chaps who helped raise the Tiger up to the vertical on the rotisserie while we had a very nice BBQ at Slacks Creek.

Oh by the way, the welcome is extended into 2012 for all club members, date to be advised. On advise from a few chaps I did some more study of the workings of a rotisserie and how pivoting a large mass occurs. I realized I had the centre of the car away from the centre line of the pivot, so with some serious adjustment ( were talking about a complete car body suspended about 3 ft from the floor) I finally had the Tiger body such that I man can rotate it.

The next job was to complete the removal of the right rear guard. Mission accomplished. Same as the front guard, the remaining parts of them are so good, no rust at all that I will be keeping them (space, where?) for other’s needs. The last week or so, besides the part time work getting very busy. I have found a few hours here and there to use a heat gun and scrapers with a stainless steel pot scrubber to start the complete removal of the black sealer applied over the primer on the underneath of the Alpines & Tigers. Here are some piccie’s. I am very happy overall, the floors are pristine showing every spot weld and seam. They is also clear indication where the car body went to Jensen to be modified for the Tiger. Where they added or cut parts there is NO dark red primer left. The black goop was applied straight to the bare metal.

While this is happening I am waiting for a few parts. The doner front and rear guards have been taken to a panel shop to get a few dents fixed before they are welded back on. The new LAT bonnets are on their way from England, there are 2 other chaps in the club awaiting this arrival as well.

Also on the body side, the replacement front valance, centre console are finally on their way from California hopefully I can pick them up in the new year.

When I have the body the way I like, the engine, transmission, steering, suspension, brakes and interior to be done.

With regards to future items, the car will have rear discs the front disc setup fully rebuilt. The engine will have a minimum of new alloy heads, alloy inlet manifold and new carby, water pump, oil pump etc. The suspension will have new ball joints and all bushes replaced.



Will keep you all advised.

Steven
 
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