Hydraulic Throw out bearings

67tiger

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I'm looking for feedback on the Hydraulic throw out bearings that are out there.
I recently completed the second restoration of my 67, and was warned that the 5 speed, and new 302 would cause there to be geometry issues with the clutch fork, I wish I had listened. I talked to some who said just throw it in the car you'll get used to clutch engagement coming at about an inch from the firewall. While I can live with it, it's not comfortable. So after all that work I'm trying to wrap my head around pulling the drivetrain out to install either a thicker throwout bearing or the hydraulic unit. My clutch is also very heavy so I'm hoping the hydraulic bearing will lessen that load as well. Searching brilliant minds that have useful opinions. Cheers, Don
 

66TigerMK1A

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Could you tell us the particulars on your current setup so we know what your dealing with ??

I have a 302, early Lakewood bell ( for a top loader ), CJ Pony parts T5 adapter plate and a z-spec T5 with Centerforce dual-friction clutch. I'm also using both stock master and slave hydraulics. I don't have any issues at all with it :rolleyes:

My buddy has a Mustang 5.0 l. bell on his 347 /T5 and used a push hyd. cylinder mounted on the trans....not near enough stroke so we've now converted it to early style arm and pivot...
 

mwood

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It's all in the install and set up. The hydraulic t/o in my car, which Tom Hall set up for clearances, in conjunction with a Centerforce clutch has a better feel and lighter pedal than the OEM clutch in my S2000 autocross car.
 

67tiger

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I have a 302 crate motor from Ford Motor RAcing, and fly wheel that came with it, superior brand Kevlar clutch, adaptor plate from Dale A, with a AMC tail housing. Using stock Tiger Hydraulics, with the appropriate slave cylinder mount/bracket. Hope this helps! Don
 

66TigerMK1A

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The Centerforce diaphragm style clutch would definitely have less 'pedal pressure' compared to a 'long' 3 finger style...

Everything back of the bell should be irrelevant to the clutch actuation... I would have a good look at how much stroke you're getting at the slave cyl. ... it should work pretty much like 'stock' ... can't see what 'geometry' issues there would be as that hasn't changed :confused:
I've put maybe 10k miles on mine in its present configuration and it's nice and light with clutch release maybe halfway through the pedal 'stroke' .... nowhere near the floor really

The hydraulic T.O bearings work well I've heard but not sure if you really need to go there ... just my 2 cents
 

PITT40

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I have used Tilton's in the past and like them. i plan to use one when I put in a 6 bolt motor next year with a scattershield.
 

at the beach

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I'm usually afraid of hydraulic TO bearings since service can mean pulling the engine. With the Tiger's stock external slave, replacement can be done in 15 minutes, most of that time being spent getting the car up in the air.

When I have used them, I've used McLeod's which are very good but probably too pricey for most.

I don't know if anyone still makes a bearing with the bleeder attached to the body but if you happen to find one you'll need to extend it with flexible stainless brake line outside bell housing so you can bleed the system.

good luck,
bt
at the beach
 

0neoffive

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Throw It Out Bearing

I've found the external solutions much easier to maintain & adjust, etc. We have converted several Cobra projects from internal back to external as owners became frustrated with bleed & adjustment issues. Think down-the-road fix-it . . . . . . . . . .
 

mwood

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I'm usually afraid of hydraulic TO bearings since service can mean pulling the engine. With the Tiger's stock external slave, replacement can be done in 15 minutes, most of that time being spent getting the car up in the air.

When I have used them, I've used McLeod's which are very good but probably too pricey for most.

I don't know if anyone still makes a bearing with the bleeder attached to the body but if you happen to find one you'll need to extend it with flexible stainless brake line outside bell housing so you can bleed the system.

good luck,
bt
at the beach

Agree, Buck...particularly the advice to extend the bleeder to outside the bell housing. And, yes, they go south, you're pulling the motor.

But, in terms of geometry/use of mechanical energy, you just can't beat 'em. :)
 

67tiger

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I really don't care about price, the car has always received best, I don't cut corners, well I guess I do since I bulked at doing the hydraulic to first time around. My big worry was the dependability.
 

mwood

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175
To be perfectly honest, while I love an annular or hydraulic T/O bearing and believe it gives the best performance, the points being made about failure (which I'm thinking is more install related than anything else) and the need to pull the engine/trans to fix are very true!
 

packardv8

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FWIW, I've gone exclusively to hydraulic throwout bearings. I've used McLeod and Tilton and find them to be overpriced.

As to durability, think about OEMs using them in truck applications and giving a warranty for many times more miles than most Tigers would ever see.

Now, when engineering a system, I start with an OEM throwout bearing from the engine/trans family.

jack vines
 

Seabrook

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It's all in the install and set up. The hydraulic t/o in my car, which Tom Hall set up for clearances, in conjunction with a Centerforce clutch has a better feel and lighter pedal than the OEM clutch in my S2000 autocross car.

:eek: The clutch on our S2000 has less resistance than moving the neck on an origami crane. Trying to imagine anything lighter still.
 

Bosspwrd

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RE : Hyd. Throw out Bearings

FWIW, I've gone exclusively to hydraulic throwout bearings. I've used McLeod and Tilton and find them to be overpriced.

As to durability, think about OEMs using them in truck applications and giving a warranty for many times more miles than most Tigers would ever see.

Now, when engineering a system, I start with an OEM throwout bearing from the engine/trans family.

jack vines

It is so true that I can't even think of a NEW "Over the Road" Freight Truck that
doesn't run one . So with over 100,000 miles in 12 months . No issues , plus those that do only city / in town stop & go deliveries , major clutching . Still NO issues .
For us , it all comes into taking the time to get the proper "Air gap" specs . This is where your mock up time skills shine . Get it correct , you will have no worries , unless a defect . But that will show itself within the mock-up !

Bosspwrd -
 

sandy

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I have run the Tilton's in a couple of cars for years without failures. I have one going in on the Tiger as well. Tilton has a Toploader adapter that requires very little work to make it fit unlike the racing ones I have which require Tilton bells.

A couple of nice things, no slave cylinder near the exhaust and no bracket, all inside the bell away from exhaust heat. They work.

I think replacing one of the 'screw on' Tilton style bearings look to be only a little worse replacing them then a stock TRB, not sure how bad that is on a Tiger, but would expect bad.

Some bad things about the annular bearings - cost, then some extra care in initial set up, and a pedal stop may be required.

Picture near bottom of page

Sandy
 
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