Correct order on brake bleed

67tiger

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Having installed a rebuilt and sleeved MC, and a new Lockheed brake booster I spent a couple hours reverse bleeding the brakes with this ridiculous hand pump.
After seemingly getting all the air out of the system I found I had NO brakes at all. In frustration I reverted back to the girlfriend pump the pedal routine success but not perfect. I have read many posts this morning on where to begin the brake bleed and for years I have begun with the drivers side caliper moving to the passenger side and finishing with the left rear. Now today I read a few opinions that suggest doing just the reverse, start with the left rear, right front, and finish with the left front. I've also read where you should have the rear brakes adjusted to the point where the shoes are firm against the drums while bleeding. So my brakes are decent right now but don't have the feel or bite of an air-bubble free system. What's the correct order, and should the rears be adjusted firm when bleeding the left rear? Some consensus on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

hottigr

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I have always worked my way from closest to the master cylinder to the furthest away (left front, right front, left rear) and have used both the hand pump and the wife. I think I wasted more brake fluid with the hand pump than with the wife, but have never failed to achieve a hard pedal doing it this way (rear brake adjustment was a non-factor). Kirk
 

Tiger tamer

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Ib have always started at the furtherest from the master cyl and working to the closest. Always the wife, no hand pumps or girlfriends allowed.
Wifes rule though she hates it.
 

67tiger

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Here is the conundrum, no consensus, and there has to be a right, wrong or most efficient and effective way to complete the task. Thanks for the input, keep the comments coming. Cheers
 

Bryan

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when I was getting my brakes finish- after car was sitting 23 years- all and I mean everything replaced- using a re-build booster- I found my brakes having a long travel before getting some braking- I had found out that the rear brakes needed to be adjusted farer out to brake drums- works like a champ now.
 

67tiger

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when I was getting my brakes finish- after car was sitting 23 years- all and I mean everything replaced- using a re-build booster- I found my brakes having a long travel before getting some braking- I had found out that the rear brakes needed to be adjusted farer out to brake drums- works like a champ now.

This info is very helpful. I had been messing with the rear brakes new shoes, and I have adjusted them but I was thinking perhaps one more click tighter might lead to a better bite and feel. Thanks, I'll get to this tomorrow and report back...Cheers
 

Warren

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3 flex lines

When replacing them I said what a gyp they forgot one. That was before I got under and saw the one hard line. I start at the furthest away from M/C. I've always used help to pump but I won't be real upset if the Harbor Freight 20 dollar bleeder doesn't work. Since I learned from the VW manual for complete ____ it said adjust all brakes first. Even the 60's Fords with self adjusters I had never worked and had to be manually done. Nowadays my career mechanic pal uses a vacuum pump to first remove old dirty fluid from M/C and pump fresh thru from the first pump. Naturally he does boats which don't have drain plug on oil pans so he's already got the sucker :cool:
 

Too Tech

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Every car repair manual I've ever seen says to begin bleeding with the farthest cylinder.
But dont be stubborn, if the bleed is not going well sometimes you have to be creative.
Strongly recommend starting the bleed as stated above, suck out the fluid from the master cylinder, then replace, then use a vacuum pump for the first bleed starting with the most distant cylinder.
Id like to add 'use a CLEAR HOSE' when vacuuming the system. AND I like to follow up with a quick normal bleed with a helper pushing the brake pedal starting agin at the farthest cylinder first. WATCH the clear hose as you are finishing bleeding with this conventional process. If you see no bubbles, you are done.
 
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