API GL 4 or 5

Warren

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None of the local parts stores have the GL 4 which has no Sulphur in it that does not like the yellow metals in the steering rack. None to be found at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, NAPA, Kragen O'Reilly.

Talk to some guys and they say you and the car will be worn out before the rack suffers.

Thinking go with the synthetic as they might not add the Sulphur to it.
 

cadreamn67

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608
They are probably right. Unlike a trans with brass syncros, there are few brass parts in a rack as far as I know. Could be just the dampner pads. Anyway for GL-4 oil I recommend calling your local speed shop and ask if they have Brad Penn PENN-GRADE 1 'CLASSIC' MULTI-PURPOSE GL-4 SAE 80W-90 GEAR OIL.

Or order some Red Line synthetic Red Line MT-85 75W85 GL-4 Gear Oil Manual Transmission Fluid.

Gene
 

Warren

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3,872
Great, and other steering rack

Thanks for the quick reply. I was hard to convince of the differences between oils. In my old bikes with wet clutches using new oils has been too slippery and the clutch plates act like they need replacement. When changing to less slippery oils the clutches work fine.

I have ordered some of the Red line from the local speed shop Service Center.

While working on the rack it was suggested by Sunbeam Specialists to change out the U joints connecting to steering shaft. What came were these nice Japan mfg. ones with a grease fitting. When doing any convolute changes be sure to get some black zip ties while out as SS sends some white ones that stick out like a Rube Goldberg fix.

Now while not looking for that show quality points look I wonder how long any grease that close to the exhaust will last and slobber down the inner fender. Probably another reason most cars ended up with a black painted engine compartment.

The stock trans in the car shifts fine with the cheapo O'Reilly GL5 product, do you think it will leak less with the good stuff? I think they may name a grease spot in the dip in the road near my home after me already.
 

cadreamn67

Platinum Forum Member
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608
If you are also changing your trans fluid, you should give serious consideration to Red Line's 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil. It is a syncro friendly fluid (NS = no sulfur?) that also meets the higher standards of a GL-5 oil. On their website it is mentioned it is especially recommended for Ford top loader transmissions. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=47&pcid=7

Using the Oreilly's GL-5 may well work with respect to the friction co-efficient being ok for shifting. However, you are putting your syncro's at risk to early failure as the sulfur additive attacks the copper in the brass. Perhaps you are planning on pulling the trans and doing a rebuild in the near future. Maybe to deal with that oil leak anyway? If not, I respectfully submit the higher price of the Red Line gear oil mentioned above is a good investment.

BTW, as for the oil leak, I doubt the different oil is going to help. I hope the leak is not getting oil on the clutch, as has been discussed in a different thread...

My 2 cents.

Gene
 

Warren

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3,872
Just for Fun

Nearly 45 days ago I dropped a nice partially cleaned brass key in a cup partially submerged in the stinky trans fluid containing Olefin Sulfate. Looks fine no foaming or other wise attacking going on. Maybe the neutralizer agent they say is added does what they say it will do.

Your results may vary, not a scientific test, past performances do not indicate future results,neither shaken or stirred blah blah....
 

Warren

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Yes Dear

Bruce, in previous oil discussions, it was decided there are several new and improved oils available at custom shops. I changed my trans oil after the cars 18 year soak in I'm sure was the same old who knows what put in by who knows who how long ago.
Ran the El Cheapo stuff in the VWs and the Falcon 3 speed with never any problem except for the fact the Falcon non synchro 1st could not stand up to MRS anyway as she had to crunch it in every non Cali stop she did, me I rolled em in 2nd like any self respecting native.
Back to oils the cheap stuff was put in as no other was available at the time. I was so darned anxious to drive it "insert pic of Gene Wilder as Dr. Frakenstein its alive." I have changed out the rack fluid as that was kind easy in Tiger fixes, but haven't gotten around to the trans.

This year I found a El Cheapo GL4 oil that had the Olefin Sulfate added just like the GL5 oils, so wanting to point out to the group simply finding a GL4 did not mean the stinky sulfur additive was not added, we have to read the label these days.

Doing more reading it seems that the chemist types put in another additive to counter act the nasty brass vs additive problem.

Just a point of discussion, fellas its an old trans that needs a refresh hopefully sooner than later the trans brass are available unlike the rack brass parts ''add pic of the You want it When laughing cartoon guy," from you old favorite shop, them be unobtanium.

The key will sit on bench partially submerged till it boils over or foams at the mouth or gets spilled.
 

Jeff F

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Just finished up a refresh that included the rack and transmission, among other things.

Unlike a trans with brass syncros, there are few brass parts in a rack as far as I know. Could be just the dampner pads.
The yoke that holds the rack against the pinion is aluminum. The only thing yellow I saw in there was the bronze bushing that supports the non-pinion side of the rack.

When doing any convolute changes be sure to get some black zip ties while out as SS sends some white ones that stick out like a Rube Goldberg fix.
See this thread for real clamps.

...Red Line's 75W90 NS GL-5 Gear Oil. It is a syncro friendly fluid (NS = no sulfur?) that also meets the higher standards of a GL-5 oil.
The NS stands for "No Slip", as the fluid doesn't have the limited-slip additive that their normal gear lube does. This is good for tightening up a limited slip diff (like a plate-type that is worn), or for transmissions where the additive will hurt syncro performance.

In my just freshened up rack and trans I used Pennzoil Synchromesh. It is a synthetic fluid made for manual transmissions, and it specifically says it is good for yellow metals. I have a bunch of it as I use it in the trans in my race car and it has always worked well. I don't think the rack is too picky about fluid, as long as it doesn't eat the bronze bushing.
 

Warren

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3,872
Great post

Thanks, saw your clamp posting earlier. It is a good choice but not for me the modern combo head phillips and standard looks too modern. I know the zip tie does too but it's way harder to see in black. I had a roller with a stiff original rack with factory clamps convolutes and one time use clamps but did not snap a pic of it.

Good suggestion on the Pennzoil product. A really hard part of the old car rehab is dealing with deer in the headlight clerks at the local auto parts store or the we will have to special order if for you, 3 days to 3 weeks generic auto parts or speed shop.
 

Jeff F

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143
I had a roller with a stiff original rack with factory clamps convolutes and one time use clamps but did not snap a pic of it.
Mine had the factory boots and what was left of the clamps. If you want an original look, you could use a Oetiker clamp like this, also available from McMaster.
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Good suggestion on the Pennzoil product.
By the way, AutoZone stocks it
 

michael-king

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CAT Member
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John Deere tractor suppliers also stock correct style clamps. As a side note.. Tigers use both Rootes style wire clamps and on some of the parts they use ford ones that are available from the mustang repro guys.
 
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