Tie Rod End/Ball Joint

I'm attempting to replacement a torn boot on my steering rack so removing tie rod end so I can slip bellows onto steering rack.

I can't seem separate the rod end from the spindle no matter how hard I beat it w/a rubber mallet. I've soaked w/WD40 and it still won't come loose.

Any insight or ideas? Advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Chris

a rubber mallet won't get the job done. They make a puller now for tie rod ends and they work the best. You might try your local rental place for one. Also you can use a pickling fork to get it loose but you will need to replace the tie rod end as it will rip the boot to shreds.

Moondoggie

Moondoggie said:

a rubber mallet won't get the job done. They make a puller now for tie rod ends and they work the best. You might try your local rental place for one. Also you can use a pickling fork to get it loose but you will need to replace the tie rod end as it will rip the boot to shreds.

Moondoggie

Click to expand...

Thanks. I just ordered one of those universal tie rod end pullers for $35 from Amazon that looks like it'll work.

It usually takes tapping the spindle with a real hammer to get it to pop loose. You aren't going to hurt the spindle. The other option is to put a sacrificial nut on the threads and tap on the nut. You wouldn't want to do this too hard or you could damage the threads. Even with a puller, it's best to use a combination of pressure from the puller and tapping on the spindle to get it to pop. Also, keep the nut on it so that when it does pop it doesn't go flying.

Of course, if all you are doing is replacing a steering boot you can always just back the inner tie rod out until it comes out of the outer end.

Whackadoodle

In the past I have used a combination of forces to break the tie rod end loose from the steering arm.

Remove the original nut from the tie rod end. Get another steel nut, not a soft cheap alloy, and thread it on with the top of the nut flush with the top of the tie rod end, but leaving a gap between the bottom of the nut and the top of steering arm. This helps avoid deforming the threads of the tie rod end, when you hit it.

You should remove your tire and, if needs be, your rotor and backing plate, as they may partially be in the line of fire (ask me how I know). Turn the steering all the way outboard for clearance. You will also need to put a block of wood (like a 4x4) vertically under the steering arm down to the floor. This inhibits movement of the steering arm and is the resistance force (in the free body diagram), since the suspension is free hanging. You can also put a pry bar over the top of tie rod and under the steering arm to apply a constant downward force.

Whack the nut with a heavy sledge, not a rubber mallet, while applying downward force to the pry bar. The heavy sledge has the inertia for a large shock load, while a rubber mallet absorbs the force and reduces the impact. Make sure you hit the nut square on to minimize any bending of the tie rod end. Sometimes it has taken me a couple of hard whacks to break it loose, however, this has done the trick for me in the past. I lightly gease the tie rod taper when I reinstall to inhibit moisture and I don't over-torque the nut, since it is either a locking nut or has a cotter pin. Check the nut after driving.

My 2 cents,

Gary

P.S. How's that Jeff, better?

Of course, if all you are doing is replacing a steering boot you can always just back the inner tie rod out until it comes out of the outer end.

Jeff...how would I disconnect inner tie rod end? Here's a picture...

I do the same method as Jeff. Back off the nut some and put a pry bar in between the tie rod end and the steering arm and apply down ward pressure and hit the steering arm end with a steel hammer.
About where the paint is missing in your first pic. You will have to hit in several places around the steering arm end. This shocks the tapper between the steering arm and tie rod and pops it.
This way you can't damage the thread on the tie rod end.

Hit the side of the spindle where to the tie rod goes through. 1-3 solid whacks and they pop out. No prying needed.

CLGTiger said:

Jeff...how would I disconnect inner tie rod end? Here's a picture...

Click to expand...

You don't disconnect the inner from the rack. You spin the inner, as if you were aligning it and wanted to toe that wheel out. Just keep going until you run out of threads and the threaded end of the inner tire rod separates from the outer.

Getting the threads started again is a little tricky, especially with a bent inner tie rod, but maybe less hassle than separating the outer from the spindle.

Gary- if your tie rods are connected to your control arm, you've got big problems! (Or maybe it's a trick new Ackermen fix?)

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, but no amount of hammer whacking, pounding and/or prying has loosened it. I will try the special puller I ordered and post results of that.

Got tie rod end separated [with a neat little tool in about 2 minutes] but now can't get it off the steering rack arm. I've marked the threads so I can thread back to same point just can't get the *#$# thing off. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

The large nut is a jam nut. You need to grab the tie rod end with some vicegrips and back off the jam nut 1/2 a turn, then remove the TRE.

To add to what Duke said--

I can't recall on the Tiger, but usually the inner tie rod end has a flat or serrated section to grip on for alignments. You can use that for getting the nut loose instead of vise-grips on the outer.

I would recommend you pop the end back into the spindle, it makes it much easier to deal with if it isn't flopping around. If you still cant get it, you can let the tie rod end rotate until it stops then wrench against that. Not the preferred way, but sometimes how it has to be done.

Thanks guys...and yes, I'm an idiot. I figured out the nut was a jamb nut so I backed that off and removed the TRE. Slipped convolute on, filled w/half pint of Redline via syringe, siliconed hole and we're ready to go.

Thanks for all your help!!