Am I missing something, filling new brake system?

[DCTiger]

My car has sat for 30+ years, so I decided to replace everything. New master, refurbed servo, new lines, refurbed calipers, new rear cylinders.

Is there any trick to adding fluid and bleeding air from the system?

Have added fluid to the master and no fluid appears to have drained from the master after a whole lot of brake pumping. This was after opening up the rear wheel bleeder valve.

I am puzzled. Does the servo come into play, since it is dry as well.

Thxs for any assistance,

 

[PITT40]

Did you bench bleed the master itself?

 

[Dancin]

Hi Robert,

There are several steps to properly bleed your new brake system. First step is to bench bleed the new master cylinder - just as it sounds, you place the master cylinder in a vice, fill half full with new fluid, run a clear rubber line from output port back into reservoir, and push rod into master cylinder until all bubbles are gone from the clear return line (there are several Youtube videos that provide good illustration). Once master is bled, install in vehicle and reconnect line and fill with fluid. You then will bleed the brake closest to the master cylinder (closest in terms of brake line length, then to the next closest). In case of a Tiger, passenger side first, then driver, then rear). To bleed each brake, you will need a second person in the car to pump brake pedal once you open the bleeder screw. For example, you will crack open bleeder screw on passenger brake, have the second person pump brake pedal until all bubbles are eliminated from bleeder (you will want to install a clear line of tubing on bleeder screw into a catch bottle to observe when bubbles are no longer in system). Once bled, close passenger bleeder screw, refill reservoir as needed, and move to driver brake and bleed, then to rear of car. Once system is bled, you should have a firm brake pedal. Finally will want to check for brake line leaks at all connections and brakes them selves. Not uncommon to retighten some connections.

Good luck.

Dan Kuenzi

 

[venice532]

bleeding

Hi Dan, I think 'furthest first' from the MC is the accepted method.

That said I'll bet that it could be done either way successfully.

 

[michael-king]

I do furthest first, sunbeams have a bit if a reputation for getting air caught in high spots in the line near the m/c.

I've heard people jacking the rear up a little when bleeding the brakes to help move the air out and push the bubbles through.

 

[DCTiger]

Duh

Did not bleed the master; the first step.

I will drain the fluid and pull the master and start over.

I am assuming that I will have to do the same for the clutch master as well.

Thanks all,

 

[Dancin]

You are correct on bench bleeding the clutch master before installing in car - same as you would the brake master.

Dan Kuenzi

 

[0neoffive]

Lazy Guy Tricks

My car has sat for 30+ years, so I decided to replace everything. New master, refurbed servo, new lines, refurbed calipers, new rear cylinders.

Is there any trick to adding fluid and bleeding air from the system?

Have added fluid to the master and no fluid appears to have drained from the master after a whole lot of brake pumping. This was after opening up the rear wheel bleeder valve.

I am puzzled. Does the servo come into play, since it is dry as well.

Thxs for any assistance,

Most often a new cylinder, being dry, will not have enough return suction to allow fluid to enter and prime the action. I put a very small amount of fluid into a dry reservoir, snug the cap, and then apply a small amount of air pressure to the cap's vent hole. If the fluid goes away, you got it ready to start adding fluids & pump. Bench bleeding is best, but I'm lazy.

 

[Bob Knight]

Pumping

The above poster also missed an important piece of information they may have assumed you already knew... but in case you don't. The proper procedure for bleeding the brakes is:
1. have the assistant pump up the pedal and then hold down on the pedal.
2. while the assistant has the pedal held down, open the bleeder and let the air/fluid out.
3. Then close the bleeder BEFORE the assistant released the brake pedal.
4. repeat as necessary to get clean fluid stream.
If you just open the bleeder and pump away with the bleeder open as paraphrased above, it will take you a very long time, as it will draw air in the bleeder each time the pedal is pumped if the valve is left open. There are one way valves sold that screw in where the standard bleeder is that make one person bleeding easier - I've never used them as yelling at the assistant is part of the fun.
Bob Knight
B9471705

 

[DCTiger]

Funny Story

Thanks Bob. I do know about the open/push pedal/close process.

The pedal pusher needs to be all in:

With my brother and Dad not available one day, I asked my Mom to fill in.

I'm under car opening bleeder, yelling for her to push pedal, no air.

Keep asking her to do it numerous times, she says yes I've been pushing the pedal. No air.

My Mom has always driven an automatic; you guys know what comes next.

She has been pushing the clutch in/out the whole time.

I should've known. I then ask her to push the pedal closer to the accelerator.

I dare ask my nine year old daughter for help. At least I will show her which pedal to push. She actually liked seeing how the pistons went up/down when I was rebuilding the engine, which I hope will start up this weekend. The same weekend I hope to charge the brake/clutch system.

I may actually get the car rolling on her own power.

Regards,

 

[DCTiger]

Brakes done, now no brake lights

With the help of a friend the brake system is bled, now I have to figure out why the brake lights don't work.

Figured I couldn't check out the pressure switch until I had fluid in the system.

Now I need to troubleshoot.

 

[65beam]

brake

if you still have the original switch, just give it a couple hard hits with a wrench. it works!