Clutch adjustment

[Brock]

Just replaced clutch master and slave. Now my clutch petal sits too high compared to the brake petal. Is
there a way to adjust? Thanks

 

[1949FL]

Welcome to the forum. You know that since you have replace the hydraulic parts, master and slave the only adjustment is on the clutch pedal, There are 2 attachment holes in the lever above the clutch pedal. Make sure your actuating arm is attached to the hole furthest back towards the driver's seat to lower the pedal. Note that a higher clutch pedal is sometime utilized for autocross and other speed type activities. Other than owner preference that is. The lower brake pedal is for heel toe action on track.

 

[Brock]

Welcome to the forum. You know that since you have replace the hydraulic parts, master and slave the only adjustment is on the clutch pedal, There are 2 attachment holes in the lever above the clutch pedal. Make sure your actuating arm is attached to the hole furthest back towards the driver's seat to lower the pedal. Note that a higher clutch pedal is sometime utilized for autocross and other speed type activities. Other than owner preference that is. The lower brake pedal is for heel toe action on track.

Thank you so much, I did have the clutch pedal in the wrong position for me.

 

[Brock]

Welcome to the forum. You know that since you have replace the hydraulic parts, master and slave the only adjustment is on the clutch pedal, There are 2 attachment holes in the lever above the clutch pedal. Make sure your actuating arm is attached to the hole furthest back towards the driver's seat to lower the pedal. Note that a higher clutch pedal is sometime utilized for autocross and other speed type activities. Other than owner preference that is. The lower brake pedal is for heel toe action on track.

 

[Brock]

After driving the car with the relocated pin, the engagement of the clutch is way to close to the firewall. It used to be a lot earlier in engagement. There is no adjustment for this.?

 

[1949FL]

Okay, the only other thing I can remember is that some actuating rods were threaded so they could be adjusted, either in or out. Sounds like you might have to move the adjuster in a bit if you have it on your actuating rod. Otherwise you might have to measure to drill a hole in between the 2 that are already there, oh boy. Also see what others might say here in the forum.
Finally check the pedal bracket to see if there are 2 holes for mounting the pivot point of the pedal, I can't remember if there are 2 holes in the bracket or just one. Sorry not the best help this time.

 

[Warren]

Like this ?

 

[TAH_Tiger]

Warren,
Seeing that picture reminds me of the time in my first Tiger during 1973 that I was in the middle nowhere in Ohio when that pushrod head broke off at the nut. Luckily the rod was still in the slave cylinder and I was able to find the head on the road about 200 feet back. I was lucky to find a local welder. No more adjustment, but it worked. I thought it might happen again so I think I only made about 6 shifts all the way to my destination in Chicago,

 

[Warren]

My first Tiger had a carriage bolt fitted so I relate to the ,"There I fixed it." mentality.

 

[0neoffive]

After driving the car with the relocated pin, the engagement of the clutch is way to close to the firewall. It used to be a lot earlier in engagement. There is no adjustment for this.?

Would suggest, at this point, that the slave rod is a bit short. Open the bleeder and push the slave all the way back while holding the clutch arm in gentle contact with the throw-out. How much space exists between the rod and full contact on both ends? If the rod does not have enough adjustment to reduce the space, pick up some threaded rod at the hardware and make a longer critter.

 

[1949FL]

Where Warren said like this with the picture, he is correct. I would chase the threads with a die to clean up things when tightened down. Lots of great help.