Front wheel bearing inner

[hottigr]

Driving home today the Tiger started to make a slight grinding/clunking sound. The last mile or so it sounded like a rock crusher. Looks like the right front wheel bearings are bad- specifically, the inner bearing. As far as I know, these have never been removed. Oh, I've removed the outers and packed with grease before, but I don't know when the last time the inners were removed. At least 30 years that I know of. Anyway, to my point, based on the attached photos, is there anything holding that inner bearing in place other than friction? I have a cheapo puller that won't budge it. Thanks!

 

[HolyCat]

When I look at the Rootes Workshop Manual, it seems like you need to slide the hub off the spindle and use a drift to drive it out from the backside. Be sure to adequately support your brake caliber with wire when you take it off and do not allow it to hang by the brake line.

 

[65beam]

Driving home today the Tiger started to make a slight grinding/clunking sound. The last mile or so it sounded like a rock crusher. Looks like the right front wheel bearings are bad- specifically, the inner bearing. As far as I know, these have never been removed. Oh, I've removed the outers and packed with grease before, but I don't know when the last time the inners were removed. At least 30 years that I know of. Anyway, to my point, based on the attached photos, is there anything holding that inner bearing in place other than friction? I have a cheapo puller that won't budge it. Thanks!

View attachment 13554

View attachment 13555

The bearing sets in the hub and the seal holds it in the hub. It shouldn't have stayed on the axle when you removed the hub and rotor.

 

[66TigerMK1A]

Greased bearings don't usually look rusty...

 

[hottigr]

Greased bearings don't usually look rusty...

Jim, that's left over crud after spraying PB Blaster on there multiples times, not rust...

 

[hottigr]

When I look at the Rootes Workshop Manual, it seems like you need to slide the hub off the spindle and use a drift to drive it out from the backside. Be sure to adequately support your brake caliber with wire when you take it off and do not allow it to hang by the brake line.
View attachment 13556

David, that's the way it's supposed to happen, but my inner bearing stayed on the axle. A coat hanger is holding the caliper up. Thanks.

 

[hottigr]

The bearing sets in the hub and the seal holds it in the hub. It shouldn't have stayed on the axle when you removed the hub and rotor.

That's that what I thought, but I wanted to double check before I put more muscle on the inner bearing. Looks like more PB Blaster and maybe some heat. Thanks

 

[hottigr]

After repeated PB Blaster and heat treatments and the puller, the cage for the roller bearings gave up the ghost. Any suggestions on how to remove the inner race? It appears to be scored, no wonder it sounded like crushed rocks...Thanks!

 

[HolyCat]

I don't know if this will work, but what about using a Dremel tool with a metal saw to slowly and carefully cut through part of the race that is fixed on the axle? If it could be done without cutting the axle itself, maybe the race could flex enough to come loose. Might be worthwhile to cut the race in 2 places, 180 degrees apart. Of course, you can't cut all the way through but maybe enough to weaken the race.

 

[0neoffive]

I suspect it spun, heated and grabbed the spindle. Simple physics should free it with an acetylene tip (MAPP gas won't get hot enough to expand it quickly). Move the torch around the bearing and pull as it expands. You will only get one shot as the heat transfers to the spindle it will grab it again until fully cooled.

 

[hottigr]

I don't know if this will work, but what about using a Dremel tool with a metal saw to slowly and carefully cut through part of the race that is fixed on the axle? If it could be done without cutting the axle itself, maybe the race could flex enough to come loose. Might be worthwhile to cut the race in 2 places, 180 degrees apart. Of course, you can't cut all the way through but maybe enough to weaken the race.

David, I was eye balling that just before I called it a night. Thought I better sleep on it. Thanks.

 

[hottigr]

I suspect it spun, heated and grabbed the spindle. Simple physics should free it with an acetylene tip (MAPP gas won't get hot enough to expand it quickly). Move the torch around the bearing and pull as it expands. You will only get one shot as the heat transfers to the spindle it will grab it again until fully cooled.

Yeah, figured as much. All I have is a little propane torch- I don't have any welding equipment. I may try carefully cutting it as David suggested. Thanks for the tip!

 

[0neoffive]

Yeah, figured as much. All I have is a little propane torch- I don't have any welding equipment. I may try carefully cutting it as David suggested. Thanks for the tip!

Patiently run crocus cloth (fine sandpaper) around the spindle bearing area after the surgery. The new bearing should snug on but not grab. Check the condition of the old seal also.

 

[hottigr]

Randy, thanks for the info...Kirk

 

[HolyCat]

One other approach you might consider is using a chisel. First, hammer the chisel radially to the axle to get a "bite" in the race. Once you have that, turn the chisel more tangential to the axle and hammer on it, trying to rotate the race. You might have better luck breaking it free by rotating it first and then pulling it off. Of course, be extra careful not to go too deep and damage the axle. Good luck!
David

 

[hottigr]

Another interesting idea- thanks David!

I'm also considering a slide hammer of sorts after I make some measurements to see if the slide hammer can be adapted and if there is enough lip on the front edge of the race to grip it.

 

[ABSunbeams]

Since the bearing is a slip fit and now friction welded. I would go with the cutoff wheel & chisel method as mentioned, be careful not to damage the spindle (that may already be). Since the bearing is hardened it should crack after you chisel it.

 

[hottigr]

Since the bearing is a slip fit and now friction welded. I would go with the cutoff wheel & chisel method as mentioned, be careful not to damage the spindle (that may already be). Since the bearing is hardened it should crack after you chisel it.

Well, it's off. Wasn't pretty. Used the cutoff wheel/chisel method. The bearing did NOT crack after chiseling. I had to Dremel the entire width of the bearing race, and even then it wouldn't slide off. Had to make another cut across the race next to the first one and removed the strip of metal between the two cuts. Only then could I coax the bearing off. Will be calling Rick on Monday for a new bearing set. Thanks for all the tips and help guys!

 

[HolyCat]

Thanks for letting us know how it turned out and we are happy to hear you were (finally) able to get that &*%$&-ing race off. I did not hear anything about damage to your stub axle, so I take it there was no damage. That is fantastic! Sounds like you have earned that cold one.
David

 

[hottigr]

Thanks for letting us know how it turned out and we are happy to hear you were (finally) able to get that &*%$&-ing race off. I did not hear anything about damage to your stub axle, so I take it there was no damage. That is fantastic! Sounds like you have earned that cold one.
David

David, thanks for your suggestions. The stub axle suffered a couple of nicks, but was glad to see the area under the race was o.k.