Making a custom dash

[Sunbeam_in_AZ]

I will start with the question first. What am I forgetting ? What other pitfalls have I overlooked ? My goal is to make
a new dash to house new gauges, radio, and still looks like it belongs. Pictures are in my order of progress. First, make
a copy of a stock dash, cut one out of particle board to confirm sizes. Second, change configuration to accomodate new
gauges and radio, cut one out of particle board to test fit gauges and look for interferences. Problem number one, With
two gauges between the speedometer and tachometer, I need to modify or make a new bracket that holds the steering colomn.
Made a new bracket and test fit with dash and gauges installed. Problem number two, the radio has only 5 inches of
clearance to the heater blower motor, two solutions, one, I live in AZ have never used the heater even when I drove the car
daily for ten plus years. two, the Parrot Asteroid radio is only 3.5 inches deep. So the second problem is solved. Next
step, make a dash out of 1/8 aluminum and cover with veneer for the final product. So I am ready to buy the veneer, and
again I ask, what am I forgetting ? I am sure I am not the first to try to make a new dash and I am wondering what
problems other people have run into that I haven't yet. Any comments, questions, or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[cobrakidz]

Looks good so far, will you space the dash out to fit like the stock thicker dash or leave it recessed? The layout is nice.

 

[ToyTrainGuy]

Your custom dash to mount a radio is beautiful, but just for anyone's information, here is an alternative to the old "hide the radio game".

My stereo is mounted under the trunk floor (with the spare & battery) using this infrared remote originally designed for boats.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500RUEM1RF/Alpine-RUE-M1RF.html?tp=13308

The remote is used with certain Alpine (no pun intended) radios. I have a discontinued model the CDA-105, but I am sure they have others to take it's place. My last CDA-105 was actually an "E" model for European. I use a flash-drive loaded with about 1500 of my songs that I can use the remote to listen or skip as I choose. The Tiger's install was after I put the same setup into the trunk of my '40 Ford, where like the Tiger I did not want to put a modern stereo into a vintage dash. Works great!

 

[0neoffive]

Nice Innovations

My vote is for the stock dark walnut veneer, a cubby matching door and spacing the dash out on nubs to the original wood location. Good going!

 

[Sunbeam_in_AZ]

Thanks for the suggestions and advice. Just an update/answers. Yes I made some spacers to make the new dash the same thickness as the old one and I was going to test fit the dash both ways to see which looks the best. I got a walnut veneer and I was going to stain it to match the Sunbeam Specialties dash I had in the car before. I saved the cut out of the cubby hole to make a door out of it. Also , when I get it all finalised, I was going to prewire the entire dash and wire it up to a multi-pin connector, for easy removal and any updates in the future.

 

[George Simpson]

proper burl walnut dash

For a (proper) burl walnut dash with cubby door Chris Richards makes & sells them for $350.00 plus shipping cjrichardauto@sbcglobal.net

 

[XTIGERX]

My 2 cents. Provision for cubby box attachment on back side?

 

[the_tool_man]

Outstanding work! I've been wanting to do this when I tear into the dash on my car (modern instruments and radio).

My only concern would be the longevity of wood veneer on aluminum. They behave very differently with changes in humidity. I would think the wood would eventually separate. Don't assume whatever finish you use is completely waterproof. In my experience, there is no such thing when used outside.

Regards,
John.