Reduced diameter water pump pulleys?
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cadreamn67
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They are off a Ford Fairmont. They work amazing well, I have one. Really helps. You have to remove the radiator to get them on and off. The stock pulley has a conical body shape and you can tilt it over the nose of the water pump. Not so with these Fairmonts. Also they have a 5/8 inch center hole. Fine if you have an aftermarket waterpump with that size shaft end. If your pump has the original hub for original pulley with 1 inch hole, some adjustments have to be made! Machine bigger hole (professionally centered!) or change hub, or new water pump, all with hub properly spaced on shaft.
Check out the "Cooling the Tiger" research paper by Tiger Tom and Chuck King for everything you ever would want to know on the topic. Probably several places to find it. A copy is on the TEAE site.
Cheers, Gene
Check out the "Cooling the Tiger" research paper by Tiger Tom and Chuck King for everything you ever would want to know on the topic. Probably several places to find it. A copy is on the TEAE site.
Cheers, Gene
good read
That is a good article for cooling a Tiger, but one thing concerns me. I'm using a 3 row radiator bought through CAT back in '95, stock shroud, vaned pump with the 1" spacer and the 6 blade canadian ford fan(CAT tech tip) that requires you trim a little off the blades. The article says, "never,never,never" trim a fan blade. Heck this one not only has been trimmed but also the hole has been drilled out to 1". Any issues using this fan blade? Also, anyone have a pic of what they are using for a horn block off plate?
That is a good article for cooling a Tiger, but one thing concerns me. I'm using a 3 row radiator bought through CAT back in '95, stock shroud, vaned pump with the 1" spacer and the 6 blade canadian ford fan(CAT tech tip) that requires you trim a little off the blades. The article says, "never,never,never" trim a fan blade. Heck this one not only has been trimmed but also the hole has been drilled out to 1". Any issues using this fan blade? Also, anyone have a pic of what they are using for a horn block off plate?
Cal44
Gold forum user
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Here is a drawing. Done in aluminum or mild steel. Need to move the horns. You can make a longer attaching piece and just move the horns out further.
I am going to make mine and either pound (bag and forming hammer) a dish in the aluminum or cut the "sheet"
and weld in a cup to go around the horn.....
I think......
I am going to make mine and either pound (bag and forming hammer) a dish in the aluminum or cut the "sheet"
and weld in a cup to go around the horn.....I think......
cadreamn67
Platinum Forum Member
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As for not triming a fan, my guess is that if done badly, like not cutting the exact same amount off each blade, you will end up with an unbalanced fan. That would be bad for several obvious reasons. I also am lead to believe the contour of the tips plays a major role in how well the fan pulls the air. Unless that is replicated on the shortened blade, it may not function as it should. Since the authors cannot control the quality of what we others would do, they err on the side of caution.
As for the horn hole blockoff plates, I do not have pics or drawings to share. I can tell you I made mine out of rather light gauge sheet metal, similar to what is used in duct work in homes. I mounted mine on the front side of the opening, so only a flat piece is needed. I only attached it on one side, using the two unused tackwelded nuts in the radiator frame opening. I figured at speed the air pressure against it would hold the other sides tight enough for all practical purposes. The metal is stiff enough to sit pretty tight against the opening as it is. You could also use some silicon adhesive around the opening if that was deemed desirable.
I was surprised how much longer I had to make the horn mounting plates, do not skimp on that. But too long and the harness wires will not reach! You need to drill holes for the two electrical wires to get to the horn. Big enough to get the connectors through, then put grommets in for vibration protection. Just splitting the grommet on one side will let you get it in after the wires go through.
You will need to drill two relief holes to allow the radiator mounting bolt tips to pass through the block plate. I say just get some poster board/paper and make up a pattern. It will also help you determine where the ledge for the mounting bracket slot needs to be cut. Just make a pattern, bolt it to the two unused nuts (using very short bolts!), press hard to mark the two relief hole locations, and draw a line on the back side where the horn mounting ledge is. Worked for me anyway!
Cheers, Gene
As for the horn hole blockoff plates, I do not have pics or drawings to share. I can tell you I made mine out of rather light gauge sheet metal, similar to what is used in duct work in homes. I mounted mine on the front side of the opening, so only a flat piece is needed. I only attached it on one side, using the two unused tackwelded nuts in the radiator frame opening. I figured at speed the air pressure against it would hold the other sides tight enough for all practical purposes. The metal is stiff enough to sit pretty tight against the opening as it is. You could also use some silicon adhesive around the opening if that was deemed desirable.
I was surprised how much longer I had to make the horn mounting plates, do not skimp on that. But too long and the harness wires will not reach! You need to drill holes for the two electrical wires to get to the horn. Big enough to get the connectors through, then put grommets in for vibration protection. Just splitting the grommet on one side will let you get it in after the wires go through.
You will need to drill two relief holes to allow the radiator mounting bolt tips to pass through the block plate. I say just get some poster board/paper and make up a pattern. It will also help you determine where the ledge for the mounting bracket slot needs to be cut. Just make a pattern, bolt it to the two unused nuts (using very short bolts!), press hard to mark the two relief hole locations, and draw a line on the back side where the horn mounting ledge is. Worked for me anyway!
Cheers, Gene
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Horn Hole Plates
Hi All
I got a pair off ebay last year for $40. They came with sheet metal extensions that move the horn forward yet allowed you to use the existing horn bolts. I had the plates painted and had holes drilled for the horn wires, even added grommets. Looks as if they came from the factory that way.
See photo.
Jim
Hi All
I got a pair off ebay last year for $40. They came with sheet metal extensions that move the horn forward yet allowed you to use the existing horn bolts. I had the plates painted and had holes drilled for the horn wires, even added grommets. Looks as if they came from the factory that way.
See photo.
Jim
TigerBlue
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Why all the fuss
Our (Bonnie's) Black Tiger has virtually stock cooling. Copper 4 core radiator. Stock 4 blade fan. Open horn holes. Standard pulleys. No auxillary electric fans. Stock shroud. If caught up in city traffic temperatures may rise a little over 200 but come back quickly when the pace quickens. Not like our Volvo or Infiniti but nothing to worry about.
All those band-aides help when parked in traffic but are just baggage when driving over 30 mph. Most Tigers have them but I have not found a need.
The minority?
Our (Bonnie's) Black Tiger has virtually stock cooling. Copper 4 core radiator. Stock 4 blade fan. Open horn holes. Standard pulleys. No auxillary electric fans. Stock shroud. If caught up in city traffic temperatures may rise a little over 200 but come back quickly when the pace quickens. Not like our Volvo or Infiniti but nothing to worry about.
All those band-aides help when parked in traffic but are just baggage when driving over 30 mph. Most Tigers have them but I have not found a need.
The minority?
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Radiator
Blue
Can not say that the horn hole covers made any difference. Did it because a lot of people smarter than me said it could help.
That said, I like the idea of the 4-core radiator and was already thinking about doing it late this fall before I put up my Tiger for the winter. I read about a Modine 4-core radiator in Steve Laifman's article on the TU site (see link).
http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/SteveLaifmanValance/pt-SteveLaifmanValance1.asp
Is that the core you have? Does anybody else have this core...are they still available as stated in the article.
Thanks, Jim
Blue
Can not say that the horn hole covers made any difference. Did it because a lot of people smarter than me said it could help.
That said, I like the idea of the 4-core radiator and was already thinking about doing it late this fall before I put up my Tiger for the winter. I read about a Modine 4-core radiator in Steve Laifman's article on the TU site (see link).
http://www.tigersunited.com/techtips/SteveLaifmanValance/pt-SteveLaifmanValance1.asp
Is that the core you have? Does anybody else have this core...are they still available as stated in the article.
Thanks, Jim
TigerBlue
Gold forum user
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- 827
Pulley Source and more
Blocking plates, higher fan speed, better shrouds all help the Tiger when it is not moving or stuck in stop and go driving. Cruising down the road the speed of the car alone provides a high, very adequate volume of air flow through the radiator. And.. the heated air is exiting towards the rear. Not recirculating forward under the radiator and through the horn holes.
There is another source of a smaller diameter fan pulley. Bobby Woolridge. 113% of stock speed on the fan and water pump. PM me if you need contact information. He has an Ad in TEAE Rootes Review.
Answering VA the radiator in Black Tiger was in it when we first bought it in '87. I guess it was CAT Parts but do not know. CAT does not make and sell radiators today. Perfectly stock in appearance with the four core horizontal between the tanks.
In the first few years it was not driven much or far. As we did start driving it more it gradually ran hotter and hotter. When I took it to a rad shop the guy said he only had to back flush it. The lower cores were plugged/blocked on the intake side. Horizontal cores are susceptible to that kind of blocking. We use a Gano filter in the radiator hose now to capture the crud.
TigerBlue
Blocking plates, higher fan speed, better shrouds all help the Tiger when it is not moving or stuck in stop and go driving. Cruising down the road the speed of the car alone provides a high, very adequate volume of air flow through the radiator. And.. the heated air is exiting towards the rear. Not recirculating forward under the radiator and through the horn holes.
There is another source of a smaller diameter fan pulley. Bobby Woolridge. 113% of stock speed on the fan and water pump. PM me if you need contact information. He has an Ad in TEAE Rootes Review.
Answering VA the radiator in Black Tiger was in it when we first bought it in '87. I guess it was CAT Parts but do not know. CAT does not make and sell radiators today. Perfectly stock in appearance with the four core horizontal between the tanks.
In the first few years it was not driven much or far. As we did start driving it more it gradually ran hotter and hotter. When I took it to a rad shop the guy said he only had to back flush it. The lower cores were plugged/blocked on the intake side. Horizontal cores are susceptible to that kind of blocking. We use a Gano filter in the radiator hose now to capture the crud.
TigerBlue
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cadreamn67
Platinum Forum Member
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- 608
I was unsuccessful sourcing the 4 row radiator last summer when I had mine recored here in the Chicago area.
The first shop I went to was run by a pompous jerk who said such a radiator never existed in a size that would fit with my tanks, they were too narrow. Thirty years in the business and he ought to know. I showed him the Tigersunited article and he dismissed it as an internet hoax. Further, he said Modine has been taken over by another company several years ago.
The second shop I went to confimed the 4 row could not be found. I got a 3 row new core. The second guy did not recommend the high efficiency version that is recommended in the Cooling the Tiger research paper. Something about how they are made makes them less reliable. He also said the fact my original radiator lasted as long as it did was impressive. The typical life expectancy is not 45 years. After a while the copper starts to degrade. It gets a coating of sorts on the inside that starts to cut down on the heat conductivity, making older radiators less efficient. I ended up getting it recored, as I said, for a cost not much less than a new Griffin aluminum radiator. My new Griffin will be going in with my new motor next month. Supposedly a fine upgrade with a very stock looking appearance. Yes I know, aluminum radiators supposedly cannot be repaired like copper ones can, but I will take my chances. My 347 says it needs one.
Cheers, Gene
The first shop I went to was run by a pompous jerk who said such a radiator never existed in a size that would fit with my tanks, they were too narrow. Thirty years in the business and he ought to know. I showed him the Tigersunited article and he dismissed it as an internet hoax. Further, he said Modine has been taken over by another company several years ago.
The second shop I went to confimed the 4 row could not be found. I got a 3 row new core. The second guy did not recommend the high efficiency version that is recommended in the Cooling the Tiger research paper. Something about how they are made makes them less reliable. He also said the fact my original radiator lasted as long as it did was impressive. The typical life expectancy is not 45 years. After a while the copper starts to degrade. It gets a coating of sorts on the inside that starts to cut down on the heat conductivity, making older radiators less efficient. I ended up getting it recored, as I said, for a cost not much less than a new Griffin aluminum radiator. My new Griffin will be going in with my new motor next month. Supposedly a fine upgrade with a very stock looking appearance. Yes I know, aluminum radiators supposedly cannot be repaired like copper ones can, but I will take my chances. My 347 says it needs one.
Cheers, Gene
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- 316
We heard a lot of positive promotion of the blocking plates. Can anybody proof they are really efficient ? Wonder how much difference they really can make in heavy slow moving traffic. Also run everything original and can confirm Blue´s experience ...