temperature sensor location

[pappentl]

Those that have removed the carb heater, have you relocated the temperature sensor? With the carb heater removed, there is no constant flow to the stock sensor location if the heater valve is closed so it seems to get an accurate temperature the sensor should be moved to a location with continuous flow. TIA.

Tom
9473100

 

[0neoffive]

Any 5/8" X 18 tpi

Those that have removed the carb heater, have you relocated the temperature sensor? With the carb heater removed, there is no constant flow to the stock sensor location if the heater valve is closed so it seems to get an accurate temperature the sensor should be moved to a location with continuous flow. TIA.

Tom
9473100

If your intake manifold does not have a spare tapped hole, you can purchase one of the later T-stat housings with a perch boss already tapped into it. I've used this before and simply drill a 1/8" indexed hole in the T-stat that aims at the sensor unit. NAPA 605-1056 works great. Just Sayin'

 

[CLIFF_MK1]

Thanks for posting this. This is really interesting. I am having trouble getting an accurate temperature reading with a F4B manifold with sensor in stock location with heater valve closed. Could this be my problem? Cliff

 

[Forrest39]

Thanks for posting this. This is really interesting. I am having trouble getting an accurate temperature reading with a F4B manifold with sensor in stock location with heater valve closed. Could this be my problem? Cliff

Cliff, when you say stock location, do you mean with the sensor in the cast iron housing after the carb heater or in the manifold somewhere? What kind of temp indications do you see?
-Kevin

 

[CLIFF_MK1]

Kevin, I think mine is in the stock location located on the right side of the distributor (car's right) and next to the return hose to the manifold. The Temp gauge was rebuild by MaMo. The stabilizer is new (second one), and the stabilizer gets 12 volts and the temp gauge gets 10 volts from the stabilizer. The temp gauge reads 200 degrees plus when the car is a actually 180 degrees measured with gun. I haven't taken the gauge back to have it checked. Thought maybe this question might shed some light on my problem (2nd temp sensor from SS also). Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Cliff

 

[Warren]

Resistors

In lieu of finding the perfect Thermistor " temp sending gauge that is correct at the sweet area of 180 to 200 use resistors. I believe I started with a couple 10's. There is also some advice on how I/R guns will shoot differently on light dark or shiny surfaces. I have a couple of believed to be stock sending units but never bothered trying to install them or verify their operable ranges.

 

[CLIFF_MK1]

Thanks Warren. Where do you get the resistors and do you splice them into the line going from the temperature sensor to the gauge ?Assume I know nothing. Which is probably less than that. Cliff

 

[Warren]

Been awhile

I got them from Rick J.
AKA Tootech here. He has model trains and had them just laying around. As I recall they were 10 ohms. I merely soldered them together and connected them from the line coming in to the gauge from the sender. Hard to find an electronic store these days. There's also other related threads on the subject here and on the old Tiger's United page.
BTW mine was well over 30 degrees indicated hot vs actual I/R reading.
I suppose a cheat would be a run a 190 degree e fan and thermostat switch and add resistors in 5 or 10 ohms till the gauge agrees with the fan T stat.

 

[CLIFF_MK1]

BigHelp

Funny, I actually am running 2 e-fans with a 190 degree switch. Thanks for the idea, Also, with the different surfaces and I/R readings, in looking at tables with different reading, while there are differences, they are not that large relative to the temperatures we are working with. At least that's my observations. Cliff

 

[hottigr]

With the sender in this location, my temp gauge is spot on through the entire range, backed up by my IR gun. No resistors. Maybe I got lucky?

 

[pappentl]

I don't see any heater hoses, so you're not running a heater? Otherwise that position should be in the direct flow of coolant and provide a good sensor location.

Tom
9473100

 

[hottigr]

No heater- running a 15 lb cap. Have never needed a heater in a Tiger in SoCal...

 

[Warren]

Lucky

To have not had a the expansion tank leak the system is designed for 13lbs, or the foam air cleaner catch fire. I had one catch fire on a small vintage Honda got ugly fast. Not sure what sending unit you may be using Kirk, but it must be within the range required. Who knows what exactly was used and clearly the greater number of guys say the gauges are not great and need considerable jiggling and fiddling to get in range. On my personal survey of three all were off considerably.

 

[hottigr]

Warren, the heater core is on the shelf. It doesn't leak, but I didn't want the end plates bulging with the 15 lb. cap. As far as the foam element, it might melt if I had a carb fire. I think guys get in trouble when they "oil" the filter element. I run mine dry...

 

[michael-king]

Warren, the heater core is on the shelf. It doesn't leak, but I didn't want the end plates bulging with the 15 lb. cap. As far as the foam element, it might melt if I had a carb fire. I think guys get in trouble when they "oil" the filter element. I run mine dry...

If you run a foam filter without oil.. Its not a filter just a foam decoration. Its the oil in the foam that traps the dust and stops it being drawn through to the carb.

 

[hottigr]

I don't drive enough miles (and never off pavement) to worry about it. Had the same filter the last 30 years...thanks.