Tool finish
- Thread starter unbeam
- Start date
- Messages
- 4,152
They were black oxide.. clean the tools well...wipe them with prep alcohol... Get some very dirty oil from a long oil change.... Heat to very hot... Put tools in.
- Messages
- 1,841
David,
About 10 years ago I bought the remaining tools and the original tool roll that Doug Jennings said were in his first Tiger back in the mid 60's. These had been on a shelf in the shop for several years. Hope this helps.
I had looked here and on the SAOCA site, and could not find consensus. If the iron oxide approach is the way to go, I'd probably go with one of the commercial kits, rather than the dirty unburned hydrocarbons..... Heard about that approach years ago from the model T club. Would the "bluing" technique also work for bolts? As I understand it, it is actually part of the external surface, rather than on top like a paint.
Austin Healer
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 1,392
I bought a "phosphate wash" from a local gun shop. you heat the solution, I just used a one burner cooktop, and dip the parts for a minute or so. remove, wash, and let dry. it was pretty easy.
Just looked it up on line. I used a product made by Brownells. It's called Parkerizing solution. The kits are available on ebay and amazon. There are different versions, which produce different shades. Zinc based kits produce a lighter grey, manganese kits give a darker "blackening" effect. some require heat, some don't. I just used a 2 qt sauce pan (stainless ONLY) on a single electric element cook top. these kits use a combination of hydrochloric acid and phosphoric acid, so safety is a consideration
Just looked it up on line. I used a product made by Brownells. It's called Parkerizing solution. The kits are available on ebay and amazon. There are different versions, which produce different shades. Zinc based kits produce a lighter grey, manganese kits give a darker "blackening" effect. some require heat, some don't. I just used a 2 qt sauce pan (stainless ONLY) on a single electric element cook top. these kits use a combination of hydrochloric acid and phosphoric acid, so safety is a consideration
Last edited:
- Messages
- 4,152
The oil technique does go into the surface and is generally longer lasting than paint
- Messages
- 1,841
The tool info is in the member section of the cat forum.
Last edited:
Austin Healer
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 1,392
Parkerizing is a metal treatment, not paint. it's more akin to plating, than painting.
Austin Healer
Gold forum user
- Messages
- 1,392
- Messages
- 1,841
I have no idea what he did to them. He was selling a complete Alpine kit and it had all of the right pieces including a tool roll so Jean said buy it. He also had a restored early Alpine grease gun so I bought it. I'm good at spending her money. The coating appears to be black oxide. The tools feel like they have a rough feel to the coating, have no oily feel and the coating seems to want to rub off excess coating at times just like the originals did. They might have the used oil technique. The tools are never out of the roll unless we're at a judged show where the judges want to see the tools and will never be used for anything else other than be there. I don't leave them in the car when the cars come home and the kits are stored in my shop which has heat and air conditioning so they don't usually suffer from rust, etc. We have tool kits for the six cars plus a few extra kits as well as quite a few extra pieces. We're scheduled to make it to Columbia at the end of the month so I'll have these tools in the series 4 and have them with me and if you're there you can look at them and also compare them to the kit that's always been put in the series 4.