Denso alternator

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unbeam

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I have the aluminum plate aftermarket alternator bracket provided by Hoghead on this forum. I'm having trouble finding which Denso alternator will fit the spacing between the mounting holes, which is 5.43", or 138 mm. When I search, it requires putting in what engine it originally came in, which is of course not applicable. Cannot find a reference using the mounting spacing or for SBF. Looking for 50-60 amps. Any help appreciated. David
 
I think I have the same bracket. If memory serves, I used a one-wire denso alternator from Proform, it is rated at 55 amps, and there may be a bushing in there used for pully alignment. If I had it to do over again, I would use the three wire version, as the other two wires provide the power for the red discharge light on the dash that goes out when the alternator is making power. Note, the 3-wire connector is available separately to add to your harness. I can check on any specifics you want when I get home this evening. Here's a picture from before the assembly was complete.

engine1.jpg
 
Tha nks foer the suggestion. Same bracket. Hoghead responded to me, and said the DB Electrical 400-52014 for a Case 460 would likely work. 40 amps. 3 wire. Still cannot verify the arm mounting distance from the web listing. Any problem with only 40 amps from the alternator? Lights? Thanks
 
40 amps seems low, but might be okay. I think the stock generator was more than 40A (except at idle, when I could see my headlights dim). But there aren't many things that draw much current on a Tiger, probably just the blower motor and headlights, unless you run an electric cooling fan. My headlights are vintage cibie with higher wattage 55/100w bulbs, and would account for 17A. I don't have any idea what the blower motor might draw, but I think it would be less than the headlights. Estimate and add your accessories current draw and compare with that 40 amps. Maybe someone with an electric fan can say what the recommended fuse rating is.
 
woody6 said:
40 amps seems low, but might be okay. I think the stock generator was more than 40A (except at idle, when I could see my headlights dim). But there aren't many things that draw much current on a Tiger, probably just the blower motor and headlights, unless you run an electric cooling fan. My headlights are vintage cibie with higher wattage 55/100w bulbs, and would account for 17A. I don't have any idea what the blower motor might draw, but I think it would be less than the headlights. Estimate and add your accessories current draw and compare with that 40 amps. Maybe someone with an electric fan can say what the recommended fuse rating is.
Click to expand...
Cigarette lighter is a bid current draw
 
woody6 said:
40 amps seems low, but might be okay. I think the stock generator was more than 40A (except at idle, when I could see my headlights dim). But there aren't many things that draw much current on a Tiger, probably just the blower motor and headlights, unless you run an electric cooling fan. My headlights are vintage cibie with higher wattage 55/100w bulbs, and would account for 17A. I don't have any idea what the blower motor might draw, but I think it would be less than the headlights. Estimate and add your accessories current draw and compare with that 40 amps. Maybe someone with an electric fan can say what the recommended fuse rating is.
Click to expand...
Stock generator is 30A at full speed. A big Spal fan draws 20A alone and a smaller one obviously less. These Denso alternators are available up to 90A so pick the one you need in either a 1 or 3 wire configuration, and the preferred finish
 
unbeam said:
Tha nks foer the suggestion. Same bracket. Hoghead responded to me, and said the DB Electrical 400-52014 for a Case 460 would likely work. 40 amps. 3 wire. Still cannot verify the arm mounting distance from the web listing. Any problem with only 40 amps from the alternator? Lights? Thanks
Click to expand...
Arm mounting distance? - Are you trying to buy a Ford alternator?

The alternator for this bracket is a Denso style mount per the attached drawing and web description. A Ford alternator will not fit.
Readily available from Summit, Jegs, Napa, or DB electric.
Nothing special and commonly used on hot rods or race cars - Summit and Jegs call them 93mm "Denso, race, mini, or hot rod alternators".

Available in various outputs up to 90A, in 1 or 3 wire designs, and in various finishes
3 wire will allow you to wire up the Gen idiot light on the dash.
Just make sure it is a 93mm body, V style belt, and Denso mount as shown.

Yes mine is from a small implement and at 40A and suits my needs - pick one that suits yours

Denso mini dimensions.jpg
 
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Also look at Powermaster they have a lot of dimensions for their alternators (Denso Style). Plenty of folks make them, I'm running one as well with a home made bracket and I think a few others are as well. Tucks in very nicely. They have higher amperage rating versions as well, but be careful some are for race and don't work at high amperage until higher RPM. They also come on black... Lot's of other brands floating around, hit summit and jegs.

20221109_132805.jpg


20221109_143128.jpg
 
The Powermaster mini Denso mount should be better quality than the Chinese generic one that I used for development.
I will be buying a Powermaster or other "good" brand when this clone Denso dies a premature death
 
BTW, I just cleaned up the bracket design a bit with radiused edges per the Jim Gislason original design, and with a machined, rather than a brushed finish.

This "S" logo version is the first one out of the mill yesterday - milling no logo ones now
On the logo version, I am pondering whether to leave the S logo cut through the plate, or milled 4mm in a relief cut?

20230216_143500.jpg


20230216_143510.jpg
 
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Hoghead said:
BTW, I just cleaned up the bracket design a bit with radiused edges per the Jim Gislason original design, and with a machined, rather than a brushed finish.

This "S" logo version is the first one out of the mill yesterday - milling no logo ones now
On the logo version, I am pondering whether to leave the S logo cut through the plate, or milled 4mm in a relief cut?
Click to expand...

Hoghead said:
BTW, I just cleaned up the bracket design a bit with radiused edges per the Jim Gislason original design, and with a machined, rather than a brushed finish.

This "S" logo version is the first one out of the mill yesterday - milling no logo ones now
On the logo version, I am pondering whether to leave the S logo cut through the plate, or milled 4mm in a relief cut?
Click to expand...
Great job! I really like the radiused edge, and on the logo I would prefer the 4mm relief. I also think the bolt near the water pump fitting should be counter sunk (which I did). I'm really happy with the alternator mount and the pulleys.
 
woody6 said:
Great job! I really like the radiused edge, and on the logo I would prefer the 4mm relief. I also think the bolt near the water pump fitting should be counter sunk (which I did). I'm really happy with the alternator mount and the pulleys.
Click to expand...
I did not need the countersink bolt with a FlowKooler or Ford pump, so it must be the Edlebrock pump design?

Point taken, but complicating it from a manufacturing, and stocking point of view is that a stock Ford 260/289 head has 5/16 bolts, and some aftermarket, and later Fords are 3/8. Looks like you had to re-drill for 3/8
It is simple enough to drill out 5/16 to 3/8 if needed, but once I countersink for 5/16 it is not so easy for the Owner to re-work if required to fit a non-stock head. Could you have used a button head bolt rather than a 12 point?

JIm used a router to radius his bracket
 
Hoghead said:
I did not need the countersink bolt with a FlowKooler or Ford pump, so it must be the Edlebrock pump design?

Point taken, but complicating it from a manufacturing, and stocking point of view is that a stock Ford 260/289 head has 5/16 bolts, and some aftermarket, and later Fords are 3/8. Looks like you had to re-drill for 3/8
It is simple enough to drill out 5/16 to 3/8 if needed, but once I countersink for 5/16 it is not so easy for the Owner to re-work if required to fit a non-stock head. Could you have used a button head bolt rather than a 12 point?

JIm used a router to radius his bracket
Click to expand...
You're right, It could very well be the Edelbrock pump, as I didn't compare with the old one. I don't think I redrilled anything, and the countersinking was not hard for me to do. A button head bolt might have helped a little, as would a shorter nipple on the pump, but the countersunk bolt just seemed ideal for me (and I guess, for my pump).

alt_bracket_fitment.jpg
 
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Looks like instead of a specific counter sink, you could just mill the face an 1/8" or so in the that area, looks like plenty of material and might just clear the hose. Also easy enough to get a counter sink too and DIY it for those running the edelbrock pump/heads. I'm running one but not using the heater fittings. Last resort hit up McMaster for low profile allen, or button heads and use a thin washer as the ARP ones are nice and thick. I'm watching this as I may have to use this bracket if mine doesn't work with the valve covers since the alternator in my case is really close to the head and valve cover rail.
 
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Powermaster now has a 100mm with same deminsions as 93. This is a polished one I got and will install it with Hoghead's Bracket. It puts out 75A. Also had the Bracket Powdercoated black.
ALTERNATOR1EM.jpg
BRACKET1EM.jpg
 
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