Grease or No Grease

6

66Tiger1A

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I'm installing a new clutch "kit". It was supposed to have everything needed from the flywheel to the pressure plate. I noticed that the throwout bearing has a grease fitting so it probably needs to be greased. I've never greased anything thinking that the grease would get on the clutch and cause slippage. I looked on Youtube and saw that most people did grease the transmission input shaft (not the spline). These were mostly newer cars or replacing toploaders with 5-speeds. One person even used anti-sieze. What should I do?
 
IvaTiger

IvaTiger

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66Tiger1A said:
I'm installing a new clutch "kit". It was supposed to have everything needed from the flywheel to the pressure plate. I noticed that the throwout bearing has a grease fitting so it probably needs to be greased. I've never greased anything thinking that the grease would get on the clutch and cause slippage. I looked on Youtube and saw that most people did grease the transmission input shaft (not the spline). These were mostly newer cars or replacing toploaders with 5-speeds. One person even used anti-sieze. What should I do?
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Contact the supplier of the ‘kit’
 
Austin Healer

Austin Healer

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The new clutch kit I rec'd had a sealed throw out bearing and a small packet of grease for the pilot bushing... the previously installed clutch had a greaseable throw out bearing, but I don't know how you'd ever grease it after it was all fitted up.
 
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66Tiger1A

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IvaTiger said:
Contact the supplier of the ‘kit’
Click to expand...
That's a very good suggestion, but it was Jegs. Once I contacted them on the dimensions of a bushing for a Z-bar. They told me the specks were not available. They were not very helpful. Thank you.
 
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66Tiger1A

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Austin Healer said:
The new clutch kit I rec'd had a sealed throw out bearing and a small packet of grease for the pilot bushing... the previously installed clutch had a greaseable throw out bearing, but I don't know how you'd ever grease it after it was all fitted up.
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I haven't installed it yet, but maybe if you move or remove the rubber cover on the clutch you might be able to access it. Thank you for your response.
 
Tiger

Tiger

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While this will no doubt meet with some disdain, I'll share my answer to the question. Many years ago, I installed a new Mcleod clutch assembly and it's throwout bearing also came with a zerk fitting. Coincidentally, I'd decided to change the clutch since I was going to be in there anyway, to change a noisy throwout. I felt the zerk was a good idea but yes, how to grease it? While a small hole in the bellhousing would work, I felt after looking over the bellhousing's internal webbing, that more area could be safely opened. I've put many miles on this car since, with no issues. Aside from "originality" deviation, I'm pleased that I can occasionally give the bearing a dab of grease while also inspecting the internals. Photos show inspection portal, throwout bearing's zerk fitting and portal cover. Note: I am not offering this as a recommendation. As always, any alterations must be carefully considered.

20241006_102152.jpg


20241006_103747.jpg


20241006_103236.jpg
 
Austin Healer

Austin Healer

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Tiger said:
While this will no doubt meet with some disdain, I'll share my answer to the question. Many years ago, I installed a new Mcleod clutch assembly and it's throwout bearing also came with a zerk fitting. Coincidentally, I'd decided to change the clutch since I was going to be in there anyway, to change a noisy throwout. I felt the zerk was a good idea but yes, how to grease it? While a small hole in the bellhousing would work, I felt after looking over the bellhousing's internal webbing, that more area could be safely opened. I've put many miles on this car since, with no issues. Aside from "originality" deviation, I'm pleased that I can occasionally give the bearing a dab of grease while also inspecting the internals. Photos show inspection portal, throwout bearing's zerk fitting and portal cover. Note: I am not offering this as a recommendation. As always, any alterations must be carefully considered.

View attachment 20163

View attachment 20164

View attachment 20165
Click to expand...
this mod is only possible on the 5 bolt bellhousing... owing to the construction of the bottom of the 6 bolt bell housing it isn't possible on the MK2 bellhousing
 
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66Tiger1A

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My engine is not original and it has a 6 bolt bellhousing. Thank you for sharing.
 
Austin Healer

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doesn
66Tiger1A said:
My engine is not original and it has a 6 bolt bellhousing. Thank you for sharing.
Click to expand...
I have a mk1a in the shop currently.... it has it's original narrow case top loader... and a 302. The ONLY Ford bellhousing that will mate the two is a truck cast iron dual pattern bellhousing designed for an 11" clutch. The car in question has a Lakewood scatter shield designed for both the 10.5 and 11" clutch packs and has 2 locations for the starter to suit. The biggest issue with this scatter shield is that it is NOT possible to use the OE clutch slave cylinder mount bracket. This particular car has a welded tab on the side to support the clutch slave which required a 6" throwout rod in order to work properly.

Of course, you can run a wide case top loader or a 5 speed on the 6 bolt bellhousing... The 6 bolt bellhousing does not have a flat portion on the bottom like the 5 bolt bellhousing in the pics with the narrow case box.

There are rumors that Ford produced a 6 bolt bellhousing with provisions for mounting the narrow case and the wide case top loaders as a service replacement part. I have NEVER seen one... but I have seen bellhousing that have been modified by welding additional material to the inside to support the alternate mounting holes. In addition, the front bearing carrier/seal holder would have to be changed to the later wide case version to accurately center the input shaft in the later bell housing.
 
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H

Hoghead

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I ran that grazable McLeod for decades, assumed the zerk fitting was there for a reason, and greased carefully. A ball bearing does not need a lot.
 
Tiger

Tiger

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Austin Healer said:
doesn

I have a mk1a in the shop currently.... it has it's original narrow case top loader... and a 302. The ONLY Ford bellhousing that will mate the two is a truck cast iron dual pattern bellhousing designed for an 11" clutch. The car in question has a Lakewood scatter shield designed for both the 10.5 and 11" clutch packs and has 2 locations for the starter to suit. The biggest issue with this scatter shield is that it is NOT possible to use the OE clutch slave cylinder mount bracket. This particular car has a welded tab on the side to support the clutch slave which required a 6" throwout rod in order to work properly.

Of course, you can run a wide case top loader or a 5 speed on the 6 bolt bellhousing... The 6 bolt bellhousing does not have a flat portion on the bottom like the 5 bolt bellhousing in the pics with the narrow case box.

There are rumors that Ford produced a 6 bolt bellhousing with provisions for mounting the narrow case and the wide case top loaders as a service replacement part. I have NEVER seen one... but I have seen bellhousing that have been modified by welding additional material to the inside to support the alternate mounting holes. In addition, the front bearing carrier/seal holder would have to be changed to the later wide case version to accurately center the input shaft in the later bell housing.
Click to expand...
Interesting....thanks Sean
 
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