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Seems that my reverse lock-out cable is kaput as I can't get into reverse. T-Handle pulls up but doesn't retract. Google search seems to indicate that I'll need torch/braising skills. How have you remedied it in the past?
Reverse Lock-Out
- Thread starter o2bdriving
- Start date
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- 178
Thanks, Warren. There are two bolts at the bottom of the shifter, can I just remove those and take the shifter off and instepect further? I presume so, but feeling my way.
ABSunbeams
Gold forum user
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I had Bill repair mine, a good suggestion is to send him a new boot (or he may have them). Makes it easier to put on with the “T’ out.
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Spoke with Bill Healy and got me pointed in a direction to get started. BTW, he now uses epoxy vs. braising on the cable. Having removed the broken lockout, I can now shift into reverse, or is it first gear? So few parts, it looks like a simple setup to repair. BTW, mine has a rod vs. a braided wire.
I haven't used his services yet, but I'd recommend him based on just how helpful he was on the phone. As a bonus, he lives ~45 minutes away from me.
I haven't used his services yet, but I'd recommend him based on just how helpful he was on the phone. As a bonus, he lives ~45 minutes away from me.
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Yup, I've done a few. A slight kink on the wire end helps keep it from slipping thru if the fastening method fails.
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Would I have to heat the existing braze or could I grind it off? Also, what length of 1/16 wire should I use? Not sure if it's a specific length of wire or more an art to get the pawl flush on the bottom and retract with the T handle. Yah, Bill mentioned that he kinks the wire ends too. TIA
Took the bench grinder to the pawl and ground the braze down to almost taking material off of the pawl. Stopped there as I didn't want to damage the pawl. May have been really close to getting the wire to break free of effing up the pawl.
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Austin Healer
Gold forum user
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Had the same issue with mine. The solder/brazing failed between the wire and the pawl and the pawl wouldn't lift. Used map gas available from home depot, (burns hotter than propane) with a torch adapter and was able to melt the solder on the end of the cable and cleaned everything up. Some flux and silver solder and I haven't had any problems since.
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- 69
I am trying to help friend out with his broke handle. His had a rod compared to mine that had a wire. It looks like the rod required a larger hole to pass through the lockout piece making it weaker in the middle that lead to the break. Was the rod factory or did someone add the rod thinking it was stronger than the cable. See pictures for comparison
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I would assume it's a owner mod.. but are both those handles factory? Note the difference in the castings. The lower one has much more rounded ends on the handle and also slightly more radius on the corners of the centre peice
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I had a car where someone hand made (assume with hand file) a T handle pull piece and actually did an excellent job considering. I prev repaired shifter early 90's was using piano wire and TIG weld - I know that shifter is still working fine today. Several years back (pre Covid) I had found a Ford shifter guy named BIll Healy who could do these repairs. Did excellent shifter rebuild for me from just the base rod piece - got it back looking and working good as new at very resonable price. He also had a good chrome shop connection and spare parts to make these shifters look like new. You can web search his name with 'Ford Shifter' and find him - very sought after by the 60's Ford 4spd owners.
Bill Heeley's contact info is listed in the Whitepages, located in the CAT Member area of this Forum.
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Bill Heeley repaired mine. Piano wire bent over and JB weld (vs braze) to secure.