Throttle Linkage/Cable set up

sandy

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
366
Finished off the Lokar throttle cable install, not to bad for a change. Had to cut down the firewall fitting a bit and get a thin lock nut to wrap it up, but pretty straightforward. Key was to use a braided steel hose cutter for the sheath part of the cable, and a special cable cutter to leave a clean cut. Test fit the rod end style throttle linkage on the mount (different then stock, but similar). I'm thinking a throttle stop of sorts will be in order but do that later.

Marker hole I left before painting as to where the cable needs to be (Inside the car side)

20240909_152910.jpg


Lokar cable assembly with the long nut and threads. The threads were cut down, and the nut replaced with low profile lock nut to allow the throttle arm to have more travel
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Now to trim the sheath part, which is like braided steel brake line, so gave a hose cutter a try and work well, no stainless wires hanging around after a clean cut
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Chop!
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Nice clean cut.
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Removed blue tape, slid some black wire sleeve over the line and threaded back into the fitting.
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Need to also cut back the steel cable, if you don't have a nice pair of cable cutters come up with something better then wire cutters!
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Fitting to the throttle linkage. A nice clean cut helps make this part easy.
20240916_121926.jpg


Inside with the Lokar clevis, attached to the new arm made by Robert S. and now just a matter of setting the position. The rod ends provide nice trouble free movement of the pedal shaft. Still mentally noting how flimsy the pedal assembly is and for sure will require a pedal stop of sorts.
20240916_132900.jpg
 
Last edited:

KenF

Gold forum user
Messages
397
Just something to check, if you manually open the throttle at the carburetor, moving the inner wire towards the firewall, the sheathing MAY slip out of the ferrule (near your black wire sleeve). And that braided stuff is a pain to get back in once frayed. And, it may cause the engine not to return to idle. I created and sell a throttle cable kit for 240Z's, and recommend to buyers to use JB-Weld to glue both the sheathing inside the ferrule, and the ferrule inside the adjusting nut. Just a thought.
 

sandy

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
366
I'll have a look at that. I think you mean the part that slips into the adjuster part. I have racked the throttle a bunch with no issues, might be due to the very short length and nor much play so it's not prone to movement.

Will give it a look in any case.

Thanks

Sandy
 

sandy

Gold forum user
CAT Member
Messages
366
Just something to check, if you manually open the throttle at the carburetor, moving the inner wire towards the firewall, the sheathing MAY slip out of the ferrule (near your black wire sleeve). And that braided stuff is a pain to get back in once frayed. And, it may cause the engine not to return to idle. I created and sell a throttle cable kit for 240Z's, and recommend to buyers to use JB-Weld to glue both the sheathing inside the ferrule, and the ferrule inside the adjusting nut. Just a thought.
Checked, and it's fine, the piece of flex line doesn't move and is tensioned in the ferrule since it's so short of a piece.

Thanks for the heads up

Sandy
 
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