5 Lug rear conversion from 4 lug
- Thread starter Doug C
- Start date
I bought an old Tiger rear that was already converted to 5 lug decades ago. They redrilled the drums. I tossed them or you could have them.
My hubs appear to have been made by a really good machinist. I have been told that some Studebakers used a Dana44 with 5 lug hubs that will fit a Tiger. So maybe they are from that? Doug Jennings in Dayton has new billet hubs for sale with no bolt holes. So you can have them drilled for 4 or 5 lug.
I would put discs on if you are doing it. That's what i did.
My hubs appear to have been made by a really good machinist. I have been told that some Studebakers used a Dana44 with 5 lug hubs that will fit a Tiger. So maybe they are from that? Doug Jennings in Dayton has new billet hubs for sale with no bolt holes. So you can have them drilled for 4 or 5 lug.
I would put discs on if you are doing it. That's what i did.
4 to 5
Doug -
I would guess that one would switch over to flange axles , either custom made , or rework Jeep Dana 44 . I doubt there is any room on them stock hubs to put a 5 lug pattern .
Check with Dale A. , he's running a 5 lug all the way around . Not sure if that car still has the Dana 44 , or he went Ford 9" .
Gary ( Bosspwrd )
Doug -
I would guess that one would switch over to flange axles , either custom made , or rework Jeep Dana 44 . I doubt there is any room on them stock hubs to put a 5 lug pattern .
Check with Dale A. , he's running a 5 lug all the way around . Not sure if that car still has the Dana 44 , or he went Ford 9" .
Gary ( Bosspwrd )
Doug C
Gold forum user
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- 543
Okay thanks for moving the thread - I'll keep all the original parts in a locked box - just in case the next caretaker wants to change it back. Yep - got the wheels, skinny hunk of vinyl (as you call it - I call it unique) but the steering wheel is the wood version.
Cheers, Doug
Last edited:
- Messages
- 207
Hubs
What PITT40 and Cobrakidz said...
Converted my rear to 5 lug with Doug Jennings hubs and Dale's Wilwood brake disc brake kit (made my own caliper mounts and e-brake set up to install it the way I thought it should be done).
Yea, I know there's guys running hot motors on the stock lugs - they look really skimpy to me for something with 400+ HP.
I mainly did mine as I wanted to use the 68 Shelby GT500KR rims - always thought they'd look bitchen' on a Tiger... and I was right!
Bob K.
B9471705
What PITT40 and Cobrakidz said...
Converted my rear to 5 lug with Doug Jennings hubs and Dale's Wilwood brake disc brake kit (made my own caliper mounts and e-brake set up to install it the way I thought it should be done).
Yea, I know there's guys running hot motors on the stock lugs - they look really skimpy to me for something with 400+ HP.
I mainly did mine as I wanted to use the 68 Shelby GT500KR rims - always thought they'd look bitchen' on a Tiger... and I was right!
Bob K.
B9471705
- Messages
- 207
Shelby wheels
I got my Shelby wheels from Branda, I don't know if there's more than one manufacturer. A word to the wise.... the Shelby rims, at least the ones I got, are VERY thick castings, which leaves the room inside the rim for brake clearance much smaller than one would expect with a 15" rim. I had to make my own caliper mounting brackets and brake hats (photo shows temporary spacers while I was figuring out exactly how deep the hats needed to be) to space the calipers and rotors much farther inboard than the standard mounting for the Wilwood brakes so they wouldn't rub on the rim. I also used smaller rotors on the front than Dale supplies, the same diameter as the back. So, it has the same brakes on all four wheels. The front rotor needed to be so far inboard it almost rubs on the steering ball joint (first attempt DID rub), and the rears are spaced in about as far as they can be without the caliper or e-brake assembly hitting the frame. If the rear axle didn't have a Panhard Rod they would probably knock on the frame in hard cornering. Anyway, it was TON of work and I'm not sure I'd recommend the same path to anyone.
I'm not sure what the legality/roadability would be if one were to turn down some of the metal on the inside of the rim. I mean, does the center rim really need to be an inch thick? All it's doing is holding the inner rim on. It seems 1/4" thick would be plenty good enough, the spun aluminum rims are even thinner than that. If one were to turn down (turn out may be more correct)the inner part of the rims so that the metal was 1/4" thick throughout, it would leave a lot more room inside for the brakes and maybe eliminate the need for so much brake modification.
However, with stock brakes it probably wouldn't be a problem.
Bob K.
B9471705
I got my Shelby wheels from Branda, I don't know if there's more than one manufacturer. A word to the wise.... the Shelby rims, at least the ones I got, are VERY thick castings, which leaves the room inside the rim for brake clearance much smaller than one would expect with a 15" rim. I had to make my own caliper mounting brackets and brake hats (photo shows temporary spacers while I was figuring out exactly how deep the hats needed to be) to space the calipers and rotors much farther inboard than the standard mounting for the Wilwood brakes so they wouldn't rub on the rim. I also used smaller rotors on the front than Dale supplies, the same diameter as the back. So, it has the same brakes on all four wheels. The front rotor needed to be so far inboard it almost rubs on the steering ball joint (first attempt DID rub), and the rears are spaced in about as far as they can be without the caliper or e-brake assembly hitting the frame. If the rear axle didn't have a Panhard Rod they would probably knock on the frame in hard cornering. Anyway, it was TON of work and I'm not sure I'd recommend the same path to anyone.
I'm not sure what the legality/roadability would be if one were to turn down some of the metal on the inside of the rim. I mean, does the center rim really need to be an inch thick? All it's doing is holding the inner rim on. It seems 1/4" thick would be plenty good enough, the spun aluminum rims are even thinner than that. If one were to turn down (turn out may be more correct)the inner part of the rims so that the metal was 1/4" thick throughout, it would leave a lot more room inside for the brakes and maybe eliminate the need for so much brake modification.
However, with stock brakes it probably wouldn't be a problem.
Bob K.
B9471705