Brake Line Failure!

Tiger

Bronze forum user
CAT Member
Messages
16
In reading through my recent purchase of "CAT Shop Notes" over the last couple evenings, I came across one shopnote written by Dan Walters and Buck Trippel, titled "Stopping Claudia's Tiger." While the entire shopnote is interesting and informative, one portion gave me a deja vu recollection. Specifically, on page "Brakes K-40," the paragraph reads: "A careful inspection of the Rootes steel brake lines uncovered a disturbing worn spot. The rear passenger side shock absorber had worn the line paper-thin. A scribe could be pressed through the line. Had this line failed on the road, the entire hydraulic braking system would have been useless."

So, I had this very same issue occur with a rear shock on my '66 Chevelle SS, the predecessor to my Tiger. In my case, the line actually did fail upon applying the brakes at an intersection. One block earlier, the brakes felt perfectly fine. Now, with my brake-pedal on the floor, I was faced with split-second attempts at regaining control. The handbrake (emergency brake in this case) had minimal effect and I was left to make a hard-right turn upon entering the intersection. Fortunately, traffic was light and my lane was clear. Had I been in tight traffic or on a steep mountain road, my Chevelle SS may have become the next donor-car.

The lesson here of course, is to inspect those lines. While clearances may appear ample when you're working under your car, or better up on a lift, consider the movement of axles and all components such as shocks. Trace your eyes along every visible line, looking for "rub spots" or rust. Areas around clamps hold moisture and salt. Vehicle recalls (not Sunbeam to my knowledge) have been issued over the years for rusted lines.

As Dan and Buck pointed out and I experienced, one pinhole can render your brakes useless. While there's nothing wrong with our stock braking systems, properly maintained, this gives weight to the advantage of a tandem master cylinder, dual circuit brake system.
 
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Austin Healer

Gold forum user
Messages
1,392
Brake fluid absorbs water... Brake lines rust from the inside out. The newest Tiger is 55 years old... If the car isn't driven regularly, the moisture will never evaporate from the fluid. You should be changing the brake fluid every 2/3 years, more in damp climates. I've been restoring Brit cars for 40 years. One of the first things I throw away on incoming cars are the brake lines! Classic tube makes sets for the Tigers in both Stainless and mild steel. They fit well. I usually opt for stainless on cars that aren't driven a lot.

I do not recommend Dot 5 fluid for a couple of reasons. It's compressible, so you will always have a slightly spongey pedal, and it tends to swell up the seals in a Girling brake booster which can lock the brakes on. Never mix dot 5 with ANY other brake fluid. They have different swelling properties and will cause rapid seal wear. If you insist on running dot 5 and can live with the pedal feel, the system should be flushed completely, or better yet, fit with all new seals and hoses.

Doesn't matter how fast your car is, It has to be able to stop!
 
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