Dang!

[KenF]

Went to a car show this morning. As I was pulling out of the parking space, the lower ball joint snapped! No other damage, that I know of yet. Could have been a lot worse, like driving on the freeway. Fortunately got a tow truck driver that knew what he was doing and we got it home. Hopefully I can get it back on the road before June 9th!

 

[venice532]

Hi Ken, that same exact thing happened to me in a 1967 alpine when I was in high school many years ago.

The front left wheel went horizontal and folded up into the wheel well while I was going in a straight line on the freeway doing 65.

The car kept going sort of straight and I was able to come to a stop using the handbrake and the friction of the alloy wheel grinding on the concrete.

So I agree, your failure occurred at a far better time.

Bob

 

[Austin Healer]

I had a similar problem with one of the retainers for the lower fulcrum pin. One of the bolts snapped and the car lowered quite a bit on the offending side.. I was very fortunate that I was only about a mile from home. I limped home and replaced all of the lower fulcrum retaining bolts... The broken of bolt was easily removed from the front x-member.

Original fulcrum bolts are grade 5 fasteners. I had stupidly assumed that a grade 8 fastener would be superior... not so much. The grade 8 fastener will snap faster as it is a harder fastener. The factory (Rootes) used grade 5 for a reason... You can identify fasteners with several methods... plating is one. Zinc fasteners are grade 2 or 3, Black phosphate fasteners are black oxide (grade 5) , and grade 8 fasteners are Gold (yellow) Cad. In all of the years I have been restoring Brit cars, the only grade 8 bolts were for the caliper to the stub axle. You should NEVER use chrome plated ( or stainless steel) bolts for anything in either the suspension or braking systems of any car that you'd want to drive on the street.

If Rootes thought a grade 8 fastener would have been a safer option, believe me, they would have used them... The last thing a manufacturer wants to do it take risks,

 

[KenF]

I'll disassemble tomorrow and figure what parts are needed from SS, and what's not available (hopefully none). I may as well do the whole frontend, which I should have done a couple years ago when bringing this car back to life. A Dale's setup would be ideal, but out of reach.
Agree about the bolt usage, and try to use original or like replacement fasteners. I sometimes trust the old stuff in good condition over the new metallurgy of unknown origin.

 

[Austin Healer]

everything is readily available!

 

[michael-king]

Glad you are ok and the car is too.. Especially being a survivor.

To add to the list of and this happened...
I was driving dads SIVGT to a club event in the hills with mum as passenger in dec 1996.. Going rpund a corner the car suddenly wanted to turn left. Hard....
I calmly kept driving to not freak mum out and was holding the wheel normally at 3 and 9.. But it was turned about 30deg right... I drove slowly

Got to the event about 20mins later... Lower wishbone around the ball joint had cracked and the sway bar was holding it all together.. Front wheel had about 20° positive camber... 😱... Tow truck home.. Lucky

 

[KenF]

Someone's watching out for me! Ball joint was very dry. And it wallowed out the socket towards the outside, not much metal holding ball in place. My bad for not checking this way back.

 

[Austin Healer]

Someone's watching out for me! Ball joint was very dry. And it wallowed out the socket towards the outside, not much metal holding ball in place. My bad for not checking this way back.

View attachment 15435

that's "Wallered out"!! an easy fix tho. bet you remember to grease the car yearly now!

 

[HolyCat]

It may not be a bad idea to pressure wash the suspension from time to time so you can inspect everything, including the rubber boots and look for other problems before they become a serious problem. So glad you and your Tiger came through this with no additional damage!