For broken 'pull to flash' turn signal switches - a 3D printed fix

[Forrest39]

For reasons that I won't rant about, the stalk for my turn signal switch with the swanky 'pull to flash' headlight feature was snapped off. It's a fairly weak pot-metal casting to start with. I called Warren who sent me some pictures of a replacement machined part that he had seen. Somehow I got the idea of a 3D printed metallic part. Sounded easy enough... I started by whipping out the calipers and making some crude measurements. I then modeled up a part using a legacy version of Google Sketchup and ran it through some slicer software. I printed a few versions with a few small edits to each to dial in the location and sizes of the holes. I printed the final version in PLA (a very common 3D print material) and installed in in the switch. It's a little flimsy for sure, but for about an hour of computer work and a 30 minute print, I'm happy with the result. Total cost is probably in the neighborhood of $1.39. My el cheapo 3D printer is not capable of a quality metallic filament, so for now I'll just stick with the plastic.
If you find yourself with a broken turn signal switch and need the part seen in the picture, reach out to me and I'll send you one, or send you the file and you can print one yourself if you are so inclined.
Cheers!
-Kevin

 

[boss-tiger]

Good work

 

[Carbuilder]

Nice work with that. I've found that PLA distorts with any sort of heat....like a car interior. PETG is supposed to be much better. Maybe since there is really no stress on that part when not being used it will be OK.

 

[0neoffive]

For reasons that I won't rant about, the stalk for my turn signal switch with the swanky 'pull to flash' headlight feature was snapped off. It's a fairly weak pot-metal casting to start with. I called Warren who sent me some pictures of a replacement machined part that he had seen. Somehow I got the idea of a 3D printed metallic part. Sounded easy enough... I started by whipping out the calipers and making some crude measurements. I then modeled up a part using a legacy version of Google Sketchup and ran it through some slicer software. I printed a few versions with a few small edits to each to dial in the location and sizes of the holes. I printed the final version in PLA (a very common 3D print material) and installed in in the switch. It's a little flimsy for sure, but for about an hour of computer work and a 30 minute print, I'm happy with the result. Total cost is probably in the neighborhood of $1.39. My el cheapo 3D printer is not capable of a quality metallic filament, so for now I'll just stick with the plastic.
If you find yourself with a broken turn signal switch and need the part seen in the picture, reach out to me and I'll send you one, or send you the file and you can print one yourself if you are so inclined.
Cheers!
-KevinView attachment 18101View attachment 18102View attachment 18103

Nicely done. Durability ?

 

[Forrest39]

Nice work with that. I've found that PLA distorts with any sort of heat....like a car interior. PETG is supposed to be much better. Maybe since there is really no stress on that part when not being used it will be OK.

Thats and interesting idea. I have one spool of PETG, but had problems with it initially. Next time I run a PETG part, I’ll this part at it just to compare.
Cheers, -Kevin

 

[Forrest39]

Nicely done. Durability ?

The turn signal operation seems ok. Just a little more flex than normal. I will try to keep track of how long this works before it breaks and report back!
The pull feature certainly feels spongy - more like you’re pulling on a rubber band until the lights illuminate. There is a discernible stop, but the feel isn’t as defined as the original part.

If anybody has a need and wants to try one, I’ll send you one. I will not go to the trouble of trying to sell them, but you can have one for free!

-Kevin

 

[Carbuilder]

Thats and interesting idea. I have one spool of PETG, but had problems with it initially. Next time I run a PETG part, I’ll this part at it just to compare.
Cheers, -Kevin

I just checked my printer data. For PLA I use 235F and fan off for the first layer, then 210F and fan on 100% for the rest of it. For PETG I use 245F for all layers, fan off for first layer and on 50% for the rest of it. So maybe turn up the temp a bit and the fan down for printing with PETG.