Front Sway bar?
- Thread starter PITT40
- Start date
FRONT SWAY BAR
AADCO MAKES A 7/8 IN BAR AVALABLE THROUGH VICTORIA BRITISH.
I HAD TO MAKE MY 1 IN BAR. THE TORSIONAL STIFFNESS OF THE BAR VARIES WITH THE 4TH POWER OF THE RADIUS. THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS WILL NEED REINFORCEMENT AT THE SWAY BAR CLIP MOUNTING POINTS.
AADCO MAKES A 7/8 IN BAR AVALABLE THROUGH VICTORIA BRITISH.
I HAD TO MAKE MY 1 IN BAR. THE TORSIONAL STIFFNESS OF THE BAR VARIES WITH THE 4TH POWER OF THE RADIUS. THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS WILL NEED REINFORCEMENT AT THE SWAY BAR CLIP MOUNTING POINTS.
What springs? What are doing with the rear suspension?
Sway bars are typically the last tweak, with rate chosen to fine tune roll couple. To just say "a 7/8's bar is right" or "1 inch is best", you need to put it into context with the rest of suspension items that effect weight transfer rate. I don't know if both tubular and solid bars are currently available, but that's another consideration, as (duh) they will have very different rates for a given diameter.
I'll be curious to hear what people who have tested different bars and combinations of bars have to say, like Buck. Most Tigers I've driven push too much corner in/mid corner. Normally, I don't think it is a matter of too much front bar stiffness (there are other more common causes), however.
I'm currently running a 7/8" front bar with 350# springs. Out back, no bar and a home made spring bundle of stock Tiger with one extra primary leaf taken from an Alpine...maybe 180-190#? I'd like more front bar to lessen roll up front, planting the inside rear tire better mid corner/corner off, but am unwilling to put up with what the change in roll couple would mean to front end grip. I will say, in comparison to a number of other Tigers I've driven, my car works very well. But, I'm certain there is a bunch left in it, for sure.
Sway bars are typically the last tweak, with rate chosen to fine tune roll couple. To just say "a 7/8's bar is right" or "1 inch is best", you need to put it into context with the rest of suspension items that effect weight transfer rate. I don't know if both tubular and solid bars are currently available, but that's another consideration, as (duh) they will have very different rates for a given diameter.
I'll be curious to hear what people who have tested different bars and combinations of bars have to say, like Buck. Most Tigers I've driven push too much corner in/mid corner. Normally, I don't think it is a matter of too much front bar stiffness (there are other more common causes), however.
I'm currently running a 7/8" front bar with 350# springs. Out back, no bar and a home made spring bundle of stock Tiger with one extra primary leaf taken from an Alpine...maybe 180-190#? I'd like more front bar to lessen roll up front, planting the inside rear tire better mid corner/corner off, but am unwilling to put up with what the change in roll couple would mean to front end grip. I will say, in comparison to a number of other Tigers I've driven, my car works very well. But, I'm certain there is a bunch left in it, for sure.
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- 2,873
Try A Bush ?
Got a 7/8" bar we milled Teflon bushings for instead of the rubber. Had to compress the springs and get the lower A-arms dead flat across in order to mount it (PITA), but it sure makes for an interesting assembly. Literally can jack one tire up and the other side follows closely . . . .
When the roads clear in the spring, will letcha know if I live . . . .
I'd just start with the 7/8" Addco and a good alignment. I'd be interested to hear thoughts from others who have done more experimenting and tuning with the Tiger than myself, though
Got a 7/8" bar we milled Teflon bushings for instead of the rubber. Had to compress the springs and get the lower A-arms dead flat across in order to mount it (PITA), but it sure makes for an interesting assembly. Literally can jack one tire up and the other side follows closely . . . .
When the roads clear in the spring, will letcha know if I live . . . .Got a 7/8" bar we milled Teflon bushings for instead of the rubber. Had to compress the springs and get the lower A-arms dead flat across in order to mount it (PITA), but it sure makes for an interesting assembly. Literally can jack one tire up and the other side follows closely . . . .
Hard to know by just the description, but it sounds like you may have either a binding issue of just massive amounts of bar pre load. When you jack up the front end from the middle of the crossmember, do both wheels droop equally and smoothly?
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Checked & Rechecked
Yup: I had the same concerns, so gave it the elevation test and all's well. We're curious to see if it becomes noisy with Teflon ?
Yup: I had the same concerns, so gave it the elevation test and all's well. We're curious to see if it becomes noisy with Teflon ?
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- 4,155
Randy isn't it ok tobnake the bushes from delrin ， good resistance and no squeaking like the Polly bushes . assume you made yours to avoid squeaking of Polly?
Delrin is really hard to work with and also can be very noisy (It is impervious to lubrication). Fitting is a total PIA, too. It is a nice option as an in between from Poly and bronze bushing or bearing mounts, though...for heavy duty/race use
My concern with the Tiger and Delrin sway bar bushings (or any very hard bushing material) is that it won't provide the compliance needed and will create bind. The Tiger's A-arm sway bar mounts create some weird angles over one wheel bumps and, I believe, you need a bushing material that allows some give. I think Poly is about as "stiff" as you'd want to go without reconfiguring the sway bar install to solid mounts (with bushings) in the bar's center section and articulated end links to the A-arms.
My concern with the Tiger and Delrin sway bar bushings (or any very hard bushing material) is that it won't provide the compliance needed and will create bind. The Tiger's A-arm sway bar mounts create some weird angles over one wheel bumps and, I believe, you need a bushing material that allows some give. I think Poly is about as "stiff" as you'd want to go without reconfiguring the sway bar install to solid mounts (with bushings) in the bar's center section and articulated end links to the A-arms.
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- 2,873
Concur
I agree with you on the need for "give", but I'm gonna try it anyway. We have a few perfect back roads here where I can stress things in some turns and find out real quickly if it's going to launch me into the boonies. The ideal set up is definitely a solid bar with bushings & links fer sure . . . .
I agree with you on the need for "give", but I'm gonna try it anyway. We have a few perfect back roads here where I can stress things in some turns and find out real quickly if it's going to launch me into the boonies. The ideal set up is definitely a solid bar with bushings & links fer sure . . . .
66TigerMK1A
Gold forum user
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I think most weld a piece of maybe 1/4" round stock or bar along the outside lip of the arm...
I have a 1 1/8" front bar and haven't reinforced the mount but it hasn't cracked yet
I have a 1 1/8" front bar and haven't reinforced the mount but it hasn't cracked yet