How to open hood

[Klaus and Cary]

Having just now dealt with this, I will provide an option that worked for us. After trying a wire and a piece of taped up flat aluminum plate with no luck. I looked at some pictures of the locking mechanism I took at TU42 and devised my own plan.

The picture is a mockup after the fact. I used a lot more tape and layered it 3 or 4 layers thick.

I taped both the body, and the hood in about 6" to 8" long strips of blue painter's tape. I then used a 2.5" wide 90-degree panel tool between the hood and the body and levered it perpendicular to the body line.

I was standing on the driver side of the car, while Cary pulled the hood release handle. and I pulled on the long side of the tool in the picture towards me. The stock hood flexed enough to release the latch. This made me very happy as it goes to the shop for all the suspension bushings next week and I didn't want to have to add this to the list.

This is how a lot of carpenters use a flat bar or hammer, to do demo work, remove trim from doors etc. I'm sure you can find a video if I'm describing it poorly.

 

[Austin Healer]

might be helpful to show the part of the tool hidden under the hood. I'm sure that this prospect terrifies owners of later Mk1a's and Mk2's with a cable hood release system!

 

[o2bdriving]

might be helpful to show the part of the tool hidden under the hood. I'm sure that this prospect terrifies owners of later Mk1a's and Mk2's with a cable hood release system!

I threaded a stainless fishing leader under the dash and along my cable and secured it to the latch. Have used it a few times to test but not yet out of necessity.🤞

 

[Austin Healer]

There is a kit designed for the TR4 and TR4a that addresses this problem! My brother has a TR4a that I "Tigerized" with a 302 and a 5 speed....

 

[mr55s]

I threaded a stainless fishing leader under the dash and along my cable and secured it to the latch. Have used it a few times to test but not yet out of necessity.🤞

Steve, I had the stock bonnet release cable showing a couple strands left before it would eventually break. I borrowed a friends bent metal rod off of his Mkl and made one using the stock pull handle. I feel good knowing the hood will release anytime I want it to. I would imagine the stranded cable was used as a cost saving measure, but as far as durability goes the bent rod has been great for 35+ years

 

[o2bdriving]

Steve, I had the stock bonnet release cable showing a couple strands left before it would eventually break. I borrowed a friends bent metal rod off of his Mkl and made one using the stock pull handle. I feel good knowing the hood will release anytime I want it to. I would imagine the stranded cable was used as a cost saving measure, but as far as durability goes the bent rod has been great for 35+ years

Was considering that option. I have two NOS cables for the next owner(s).

 

[65beam]

Was considering that option. I have two NOS cables for the next owner(s).

The best fix is to replace the cable with the rod used earlier. It was used on all Alpines except for late series 5 Alpines. It bolts right in. Dan R. in S Carolina has reproduced the end that hooks to the pin on the latch. I seem to remember that he may have the handle and the rod reproduced also. I have several of the rods.

 

[65beam]

There is a kit designed for the TR4 and TR4a that addresses this problem! My brother has a TR4a that I "Tigerized" with a 302 and a 5 speed....

From what I've seen owners that have run into the problem have done one of the common fixes without ordering either a A/H or TR part from Moss. I would say that either SS or Classic both have the availability of the used rod or they know who to tell you to contact to get one. Support your local Sunbeam parts supplier.