New M/C from SS

[michael-king]

Do you raise the rear higher than front when you bleed them?.. Can help move any bubbles towards that end.

So, what is the gremlin with bleeding the rears? Is there some special technique to be used?

My car does not have a booster installed, so that is not the problem.

 

[Warren]

The shop manual has a "different" bleeding routine.
As I recall you don't start with the farthest away from the brake master like other cars. I hope it's not multiple choice on a quiz.

 

[0neoffive]

So, what is the gremlin with bleeding the rears? Is there some special technique to be used?

My car does not have a booster installed, so that is not the problem.

The stock design only allows bleeding from the left and has a tendency to leave air bubbles. I found that elevating the left side of the car sped the process up considerably.

 

[KettleCarver]

Thanks for the bleeding tips!!

 

[KettleCarver]

Austin Healer, I think you found the problem. Based on your input, I checked the free play on the pedal. There was NONE! The pedal was hard up the brake pedal stop. I checked the free play on my friend's car parked in my barn. His had decent free play, and the pedal stop was removed from his car.

I removed the pedal stop from my car as well, which gave it plenty of free play. Now the passenger side spins freely. The drivers side still sticks slightly, but not full-on stuck like before. The brake pedal feels nice and firm, and will release the calipers now.

Is it a common practice to remove the stop on these cars?

 

[Austin Healer]

I was disappointed to get a cast iron brake master from SS. If going stock be sure to ask ...

I checked my supplier (Moss) and they have the cylinder in cast iron as well... 2 different suppliers TRW/Girling at $74 or no name (probably Chinese) at $35, Same master cylinder as the Austin Healey 3000 Mk3. Have yet to find a source in alloy.