NOT the rear main seal!

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Duke Mk1a

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1,673
Well, it was not the rear main. It was the damn wet flywheel bolts! That is some BS. Like your thoughts on the clutch. I will replace the friction disk and have the flywheel surfaced. What do you guys feel about the pressure plate? Clean it and use or shell out $190 for another one?

The pictures that confirm the bolts were the culprit!

0012.jpg


0022.jpg


0032.jpg


0042.jpg


0052.jpg

Notice the two on the left that have oil all over the threads. The locktite blue does not seal.

006-8.jpg

Back of flywheel

007-6.jpg


008-9.jpg

Case closed, no oil on back of engine from rear main. Now, do I go ahead and replace this rear main with the much higher quality one I have using a install tool that will place it exactly at the right depth and even?
 
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M

Moondoggie

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569
Hi Duke,

I just learned that the best sealant for flywheel bolts threads is PERMATEX
gasket seal !!!!! The teflon tape trick doesn't work as well as PERMATEX...
PM me if you want more details !!!

Also, while you have it out you might as well replace that rear main seal since you now have the correct installation tool. If it were me !! I would resurface the flywheel and pressure plate and replace the center disc..

Moondoggie
 
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Duke Mk1a

Gold forum user
Messages
1,673
Moondoggie said:
Hi Duke,

I just learned that the best sealant for flywheel bolts threads is PERMATEX
gasket seal !!!!! The teflon tape trick doesn't work as well as PERMATEX...
PM me if you want more details !!!

Also, while you have it out you might as well replace that rear main seal since you now have the correct installation tool. If it were me !! I would resurface the flywheel and pressure plate and replace the center disc..

Moondoggie
Click to expand...

I have PERMATEX high temp thread seal I will use. Old RM is out and prepping the new one.

Can a pressure plate be resurfaced like the flywheel?
 
M

Moondoggie

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Messages
569
Duke Mk1a said:
I have PERMATEX high temp thread seal I will use. Old RM is out and prepping the new one.

Can a pressure plate be resurfaced like the flywheel?
Click to expand...


That should work just fine......as far as I know you can resurface a pressure plate....all you need to do is scuf up the surface a bit so emery cloth would also work since the surface isn't worn much.

Moondoggie
 
Bryan

Bryan

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CAT Member
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424
oil

mr.bmw- you might cure the weakest point of the oil leak- but you need to find out why your getting so much pressure in your crankcase- i.e rings, valve seals low compression in one piston? crack head --I seen it before just a thought before you re-install eng back in .
 
D

Duke Mk1a

Gold forum user
Messages
1,673
Will take the PP to my machine shop guy and ask him. The flywheel will need a skim as it has some nasty burn marks. Will be pulling the head to check #1 cylinder and valves.

Here is the new rear main install -

009-5.jpg

Seal removed and cleaned with brake cleaner. Crank bolt threads cleaned also.

010-3.jpg

Install tool with new RM seated.

011-4.jpg

Bolts that came with tool not long enough, just tapped it in with a rubber mallet till flush.

012-4.jpg

New seal installed, I ran silicone sealant around the circumferance and It will have plenty of time to set before engine is back in.
 
S

steven

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875
Exuse me if i am wrong, if the rear seal is working as designed, it shoud stop all oil leaks, therefor no oil on the flywheel bolts. :confused:
 
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Duke Mk1a

Gold forum user
Messages
1,673
steven said:
Exuse me if i am wrong, if the rear seal is working as designed, it shoud stop all oil leaks, therefor no oil on the flywheel bolts. :confused:
Click to expand...

The holes in the crank go all the way through to the crankcase. oil was being forced through the threads and out by the flywheel bolts.
 
66TigerMK1A

66TigerMK1A

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Messages
1,130
I guess that explains why I've always had that little oil 'hanger' on the bottom of the block plate... no real consumption.... just that little spot on the floor... :eek:


Jim
B382000446
 
6

67 Tiger

Gold forum user
Messages
298
If you want to stop leaks on threaded bolts or joints use a product that is made for the job. I spent 35 years installing many different types of piping and the best DOPE is a product called KEY TITE, its a green thread sealent, that will seal all leaky joints, out in the field I used it in many high pressure (+150psi) systems. I used it on my leaky Harley pan head gas tank, once I used it on my wifes crossthreaded fuel line on her chevy, I use it on all head bolts of every motor ive ever built. The best part is you can take your stuff apart years later, cause the threads are lubed. This is the best thread sealent EVER.This is what they say.
Waterproof Sealant for air, gas, water and steam line joints
This viscous sealant cannot be equaled for leak proof sealing of threaded, flanged and gasket joints. Use Key-Tite® in flow lines for hot and cold water, aqueous solutions, low pressure steam slurries, natural and manufactured gases, compressed air, filled products*, dilute acids and caustics, and alcohols. Key-Tite® is dark green and consists of vegetable and mineral oils and prime and extender pigments, plus an anti-oxidant. Key-Tite® contains no lead or other toxic ingredients, and will not affect the taste or color of water or any other potable liquid. *Approved by U.S. Department of Agriculture for meat and poultry. Industry-approved for most food and processing applications; however, for specific services, recommendation should be obtained from the factory
http://www.keytite.com/
 
0neoffive

0neoffive

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CAT Member
Messages
2,873
NEAT STUFF, BUT . . . .

67 Tiger said:
If you want to stop leaks on threaded bolts or joints use a product that is made for the job. I spent 35 years installing many different types of piping and the best DOPE is a product called KEY TITE, its a green thread sealent, that will seal all leaky joints, out in the field I used it in many high pressure (+150psi) systems. I used it on my leaky Harley pan head gas tank, once I used it on my wifes crossthreaded fuel line on her chevy, I use it on all head bolts of every motor ive ever built. The best part is you can take your stuff apart years later, cause the threads are lubed. This is the best thread sealent EVER.This is what they say.
Waterproof Sealant for air, gas, water and steam line joints
This viscous sealant cannot be equaled for leak proof sealing of threaded, flanged and gasket joints. Use Key-Tite® in flow lines for hot and cold water, aqueous solutions, low pressure steam slurries, natural and manufactured gases, compressed air, filled products*, dilute acids and caustics, and alcohols. Key-Tite® is dark green and consists of vegetable and mineral oils and prime and extender pigments, plus an anti-oxidant. Key-Tite® contains no lead or other toxic ingredients, and will not affect the taste or color of water or any other potable liquid. *Approved by U.S. Department of Agriculture for meat and poultry. Industry-approved for most food and processing applications; however, for specific services, recommendation should be obtained from the factory
http://www.keytite.com/
Click to expand...

. . . .Will it cure incontinence ?
 
W

wag123

Gold forum user
Messages
130
Bryan said:
mr.bmw- you might cure the weakest point of the oil leak- but you need to find out why your getting so much pressure in your crankcase- i.e rings, valve seals low compression in one piston? crack head --I seen it before just a thought before you re-install eng back in .
Click to expand...

Duke, I agree with Bryan. That is an awfull lot of oil to have gotten by the the flywheel bolts! You have a MAJOR crankcase pressure problem to solve. With the engine out of the car, NOW is the time to find and fix the problem.
 
C

chirodoc

Gold forum user
Messages
281
WOUNDED HOLE

I have only gernaded two engines in my lifetime, both being valve train related. I recently accessed Adam Carolla's web site where Sandy(AKA; GTS spark plugs.com) shows the carnage that broken rods caused in his GT 350Mustang 331 in aluminum stroker engine, (now destined for his Tiger). Consider yourself lucky only being out $500 bucks.
 
TigerBlue

TigerBlue

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Messages
827
Ring (s) and riddles

I think the riddle is solved. A combination of a leak and blow-by from a compromised cylinder.

Or are you expecting to see the Bat Sign.

Rick
 
D

Duke Mk1a

Gold forum user
Messages
1,673
Yes Batman....the riddle is indeed solved!

I know that I am a very lucky guy and happy that chromoly rings were used. It bent and did not break. The week prior, I drove 1100 miles to TN and back. I got 15.3 MPG, I am thinking mileage will improve with the repair.
 
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Duke Mk1a

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Messages
1,673
^^^^ Yep!


I used this -
4


I should have used this -

arp-900-0300_w.jpg


What I used leaves way too much room for the rings slipping out before the cylinder.

Although............the night I installed the pistons I was having lots of beer with a friend visiting from Austrailia. I am sure that had NOTHING to do with it :cool:
 
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