Out with the ammeter--in with a voltmeter

[ramseyt]

I'm hearing more and more that my stock 30 amp ammeter is a meltdown hazard, especially with my 1-wire 100 amp Ford 3g alternator. Could someone recommend a volt meter that would have the same stock look as the ammeter in my '66 Tiger 1A? Any help/comments appreciated

 

[cobrakidz]

I have a volt meter in my mk1 that I thought was stock--it matches perfectly. Didn't they offer them?

 

[66TigerMK1A]

Here's a pic of a stock 30 amp ammeter which is the correct optional part for a MK1 and MK1A ... they never offered a voltmeter...

I have a Sunpro Voltmeter in my car that was creatively made to look like a Jaeger ...

The only way to go IMHO



Jim
B382000446

 

[cobrakidz]

Not sure what mine is out of then, but I like it.

 

[Duke Mk1a]

Not the best pic but you get the idea. Got this new off of ebay. I took it apart and painted the needle to match.

It is buffered and does not read instantly. Has worked perfect thus far and I would never have a AMP meter again. Having an Alt was a contributing factor to the change too.

 

[michael-king]

I like Jim's refaced/screened volt meter.. matches very nicely.. assume it was one of Pauls works (as the tach would be)

Duke.. i still have a really nice 30/30 ammeter in the car.. .looks lovely with the lights on the dash.. my solution.. the only thing that is wired up is the globe... if there is a charging issue the igntion light will stay on.. factory look without the fire hazard

 

[66TigerMK1A]

I like Jim's refaced/screened volt meter.. matches very nicely.. assume it was one of Pauls works (as the tach would be)

Duke.. i still have a really nice 30/30 ammeter in the car.. .looks lovely with the lights on the dash.. my solution.. the only thing that is wired up is the globe... if there is a charging issue the igntion light will stay on.. factory look without the fire hazard

That's probably all you need, Michael... I upgraded to a 100 amp 1-wire Alt and had my electrical guru change the guts to a 3-wire so I could still run the dash light...


Ya, that's one of Paul's voltmeters... I sent him a pile of used Jaeger stuff so he could make more but he doesn't seem that interested since he sold his Tiger... I DID talk him into doing a few more 8k tach faces and they should be here soon so I'll be able to supply those by the end of the month I hope


Jim
B382000446

 

[XTIGERX]

OK you've made me nervous. I swapped out to an Alt back in the mid 80's but it is 3-wire and I have an Amp meter. I wasn't aware of any hazard as mentioned previously. So do I have a problem or is the concern only with the 1-wire Alt?

 

[ramseyt]

I have been told that if I ever have a "dead" battery the alternator would be putting out 100 (unfused) amps thru my ammeter in the dash. The wire could get very hot and should be a #6 guage. That's a big wire. I went out and bought some jumper cables to get the automotive grade #6 wire and was dissapointed that the jacket appears to be some kind of cheap rubber and not something I would want to thread through my dashboard wiring. I felt like a real dummy when I realized the terminals on the ammeter were small and not proportional to the #6 wire. This has brought me to begin to abandon the ammeter set up.

 

[Moondoggie]

I oredered one from the little old lady at Moma !!! I now understand why Rich
and Dale no longer deal with those folks. Mine is on it's way and will probably
look like Dukes but who knows for sure. They have no computer system so when you call and inquire about your order you can hear her shuffling thru a shoebox full of paper. I'm almost certain mine is on the way but if your last name is Smith or Jones forget it

Moondoggie

 

[0neoffive]

Engine New Itty

I have been told that if I ever have a "dead" battery the alternator would be putting out 100 (unfused) amps thru my ammeter in the dash. The wire could get very hot and should be a #6 guage. That's a big wire. I went out and bought some jumper cables to get the automotive grade #6 wire and was dissapointed that the jacket appears to be some kind of cheap rubber and not something I would want to thread through my dashboard wiring. I felt like a real dummy when I realized the terminals on the ammeter were small and not proportional to the #6 wire. This has brought me to begin to abandon the ammeter set up.

#6 soft copper braid is good for 55 - 60 Amps on a constant load, a bit higher on an "OMG" surge. Dual runs of #12 or 10 gauge braided THHN 105c wire will stand more guff and adapt to the smaller connectors fine.

 

[ramseyt]

If I create dual runs of 10 gauge braided THHN 105c wire will the stock 30 amp ammeter and it's terminals support the OMG 100 amp load?

 

[steven]

If concerned about the extreme situation were the alternator has no load or a very low one. The first thing that comes to mind, if an alternator can not sense a load, it can be very damaging to the altenator diodes and it will fail.

On the other situation, if the alternator senses a very discharged battery it will charge at its maximum. A way to prevent this very rare occurance is to fit a circuit breaker that will disconnect the alt if it senses to high a current.

I have never found in my sunbeam a situation where the alt exceeds the current flow that the ammeter reads. Even with a flat battery. As the voltage rises, the regulator in the alt senses the rise and reduces the field voltage to reduce the output of the alt. all good.

Beside the Sunbeams, I have a RV with 600W of solar and a 100A alternator with a 3KV generator as a backup. I have never had a concern with monitoring input/output if you know what you are doing. If there is concern about an alternator being a hazard, get to a good auto electrican and have the problem solved.

 

[0neoffive]

Ditto the Ditto

If I create dual runs of 10 gauge braided THHN 105c wire will the stock 30 amp ammeter and it's terminals support the OMG 100 amp load?

See Steven's comment. There ain't nuthin' you can do about a catastrophic failure. The Amp gauge will fuse!