Side Trim Clips

[catatonic]

I have less than half of the original side trim clips on my car. Trying to block sand around them is difficult. Is removing the clips that remain and replacing them with SS plastic clips a bad idea? I'm trying not to shoot myself in the foot by doing something foolish. I'd really appreciate any input, especially from those owners who have painted their cars. Thanks.

 

[IvaTiger]

I bought the plastic clips and did not like them because I felt that they would not hold the trim securely enough and after any paint build up could cause fitting issues. I only needed to put the passenger side rear trim on from the door back to the rear light. This was because that rear quarter panel had been replaced with an Alpine panel because a teenage run into it way back and the trim was never put back on The Alpine does not have the trim. Since I had all the interior panels off from inside the trunk and the rest of the car I could reach inside the compartments to where the clips would be located ( I did have to drill the holes for the screws I used) Instead of the clips I found that brass round head screws will slide into the stainless trim grooves and then secured them with nuts. I don’t remember what size screws I used probably number 4 or 6 that were 1/2 inch long There was one which took a lot of fiddling to get the nut on I think there are 6 or 7 for that strip Brass won’t rust if it gets wet from rain or washing. I have original paint on the car and will leave it that way so the other strips are not going to be removed.
I have heard that body skim coat and paint build up has been a problem when the trim is put on after if the holes have closed up. And the thickness of the skim coat and paint makes fitting of the clips and trim an issue.I would recommend trying screws.
Good luck

 

[IvaTiger]

I bought the plastic clips and did not like them because I felt that they would not hold the trim securely enough and after any paint build up could cause fitting issues. I only needed to put the passenger side rear trim on from the door back to the rear light. This was because that rear quarter panel had been replaced with an Alpine panel because a teenage run into it way back and the trim was never put back on The Alpine does not have the trim. Since I had all the interior panels off from inside the trunk and the rest of the car I could reach inside the compartments to where the clips would be located ( I did have to drill the holes for the screws I used) Instead of the clips I found that brass round head screws will slide into the stainless trim grooves and then secured them with nuts. I don’t remember what size screws I used probably number 4 or 6 that were 1/2 inch long There was one which took a lot of fiddling to get the nut on I think there are 6 or 7 for that strip Brass won’t rust if it gets wet from rain or washing. I have original paint on the car and will leave it that way so the other strips are not going to be removed.
I have heard that body skim coat and paint build up has been a problem when the trim is put on after if the holes have closed up. And the thickness of the skim coat and paint makes fitting of the clips and trim an issue.I would recommend trying screws.
Good luck

90 percent sure I used #4 screws and drilled 1/8 inch holes

 

[catatonic]

Thank you for the idea of using small screws in the trunk. I could use screws in the doors and front fenders and only have to rely on a relative few plastic clips for the hard to get to places. Would grinding off the remaining original clips to facilitate block sanding devalue the car or is the use of alternate fasteners an acceptable restoration practice?

 

[IvaTiger]

Thank you for the idea of using small screws in the trunk. I could use screws in the doors and front fenders and only have to rely on a relative few plastic clips for the hard to get to places. Would grinding off the remaining original clips to facilitate block sanding devalue the car or is the use of alternate fasteners an acceptable restoration practice?

Plastic clips in my opinion is not a good deviation from the original way of fastening. Just remember as a tip that it is only ever original once and original is good.

 

[DD (CA)]

Plastic clips in my opinion is not a good deviation from the original way of fastening. Just remember as a tip that it is only ever original once and original is good.

Generally agree and would prefer to keep original. However, after media blast, epoxy primer and single stage its difficult. I attempted to tap the hole but a couple issues came. If not routed enough, youre likely to dimple body trying to push in too hard with original type clips. If routing a larger hole you risk exposing metal in the hole and possibly a loose clip. Therefore...

I too choose the screw, lock washer and nut. Used nylon. This allowed me to also clip the head of fhe screw for wedging into the trim (and holds screw from rotating while turning nut. Another benefit... can pull out some dimples, are cheap and will not corrode.

YMMV

DD

 

[Bryan]

Tigerspares UK has stainless screws and nylon nuts as kit I used those at each end of molding and the plastic ones for the center sections --Never a problem

 

[catatonic]

Since I am missing about half of the original clips, I'll be using plastic clips and screws to attach the trim. When prepping a Tiger for paint, do you leave the clips and try to work around them?

 

[Warren]

I replaced some plastic ones with stainless steel screws filed with flats.
A recent restore I was watching welded all the trim holes hung all panels and doors so the trim was laser straight.

 

[DD (CA)]

laser straight.

= over restored. pretty though.
DD

 

[0neoffive]

Since I am missing about half of the original clips, I'll be using plastic clips and screws to attach the trim. When prepping a Tiger for paint, do you leave the clips and try to work around them?

Fresh plastic clips are cheap. Get all those wee bumps out of the body guy's way. I use 4/40 stainless screws w/nuts in several location to prevent the trim from drifting. The screw head with the matching washer fits just right into the trim for snug fastening.

 

[IvaTiger]

Fresh plastic clips are cheap. Get all those wee bumps out of the body guy's way. I use 4/40 stainless screws w/nuts in several location to prevent the trim from drifting. The screw head with the matching washer fits just right into the trim for snug fastening.

Totally agree

 

[Warren]

Trouble with the plastic clips is they must be PVC or some other sunlight effected soon to be brittle as old people bones...

 

[Austin Healer]

I have less than half of the original side trim clips on my car. Trying to block sand around them is difficult. Is removing the clips that remain and replacing them with SS plastic clips a bad idea? I'm trying not to shoot myself in the foot by doing something foolish. I'd really appreciate any input, especially from those owners who have painted their cars. Thanks.

I found that the new clips supplied By Sunbeam Specialties (and others) are slightly small than the originals and do not grip the stainless trim tightly. This allows the trim to be pretty easily moved fore and aft. if your not paying attention you can end up either screwing of the trims or the paint by getting it caught in the door... Randy's screw solution seems like a really good idea

 

[catatonic]

Thank you all very much for sharing your knowledge with me. I'll carefully grind off the remaining clips for block sanding and attach the trim with stainless or brass screws where I can and use the plastic clips where I can't reach the back side of the panel.