soft top frame question and part question

1949FL

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I just finished replacing my convertible top with an Everflex top, it looks pretty nice. The weld(s) holding the left side frame rail separated and now it rattles and slides, needs to be fixed. Am I wrong or can I remove the left rail by driving out the hinge pin and then remove the Velcro strip to reweld the hinge bracket back to the left rail to complete repair without impact the new and pricey top? Does Rick (at SS) have the pins on plate reference D236(2), Rootes Part number 2224728 shown in Rootes Publication No. 6600992; page YX14?
I think the question really is, can I remove this rail without removing the new convertible top?

Thanks for the help.
Jim
 

0neoffive

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You may be able to TIG that in place if it can be held accurately in the correct location & angle. Lots of welding spark protection needed. just sayin'
 

Austin Healer

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I just finished replacing my convertible top with an Everflex top, it looks pretty nice. The weld(s) holding the left side frame rail separated and now it rattles and slides, needs to be fixed. Am I wrong or can I remove the left rail by driving out the hinge pin and then remove the Velcro strip to reweld the hinge bracket back to the left rail to complete repair without impact the new and pricey top? Does Rick (at SS) have the pins on plate reference D236(2), Rootes Part number 2224728 shown in Rootes Publication No. 6600992; page YX14?
I think the question really is, can I remove this rail without removing the new convertible top?

Thanks for the help.
Jim
I don't think so, as the top material is glued to the frame behind the door glass. In any event, if it were me, I'd want to do the welding with the top frame off of the car. If you do get it apart and decide you don't want to try welding it back together, I have a good LH cantrail that I'd part with... You should be able to replace the solid pin with a correctly sized roll pin.
 

1949FL

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Does it have the light grey inside the top?
Yes and I like the way it looks.

1966 Tiger Everflex top inside.jpg
 

1949FL

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I don't think so, as the top material is glued to the frame behind the door glass. In any event, if it were me, I'd want to do the welding with the top frame off of the car. If you do get it apart and decide you don't want to try welding it back together, I have a good LH cantrail that I'd part with... You should be able to replace the solid pin with a correctly sized roll pin.
Can you pm me with pix and info the left hand rail maybe the price and shipping to 65251 in Missouri
 

1949FL

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You may be able to TIG that in place if it can be held accurately in the correct location & angle. Lots of welding spark protection needed. just sayin'
I like the way you are thinking. I noticed the left arm stretched to reach the windshield and I believe it to be approximately 3/8" too short for whatever reason. All I know it that when I plug it in now to the windshield, there is a short rust spot showing when it is hooked up, and the weld(s) are broken. Picture is the left cantrail, I used a selfie image. Jim

View attachment Frame rail broken weld 1.jpg
 

Austin Healer

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Nice to see a correct top.. The grey inside makes the interior feel much nicer when the roof is up... Not like a dark cave.... I do note you have the frame painted grey as they should be... .. But ..... You have black webbing strap not light grey
the light grey webbing is available from Moss in the correct cotton too... part # 641.008 $15 retail
 

1949FL

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Nice to see a correct top.. The grey inside makes the interior feel much nicer when the roof is up... Not like a dark cave.... I do note you have the frame painted grey as they should be... .. But ..... You have black webbing strap not light grey
You are correct about the black webbing. I looked for several months here and in the UK and could not find new light colored webbing. So I riveted on the heavy duty black webbing, but if I ever find the correct, it can be changed, I've got the rivets. This car is personalized so concours is out at least for now. I will check Moss for sure.
 

1949FL

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You are correct about the black webbing. I looked for several months here and in the UK and could not find new light colored webbing. So I riveted on the heavy duty black webbing, but if I ever find the correct, it can be changed, I've got the rivets. This car is personalized so concours is out at least for now.

the light grey webbing is available from Moss in the correct cotton too... part # 641.008 $15 retail
I just ordered the grey, thanks for the tip and info.
Jim
 

Warren

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What's strange is the many comments on how the grey primer look didn't match .
Considering the reality that tops got changed every two years back in the day it's hard to know what was stock. Seen JC Whitney catalogs with Sunbeam parts to boot. AMCO also made the tops as well as Cobra sun visors in tinted plastic.
 

IvaTiger

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What's strange is the many comments on how the grey primer look didn't match .
Considering the reality that tops got changed every two years back in the day it's hard to know what was stock. Seen JC Whitney catalogs with Sunbeam parts to boot. AMCO also made the tops as well as Cobra sun visors in tinted plastic.
This is stock The soft top had not seen daylight since 1979 or maybe even earlier until I opened it up earlier this year Do you need a pic of the strapping ?

C53F8ED6-4A56-4D8D-A33C-2AD0F00D74DD.png


C7EA8F82-0B8E-4DF3-A130-66C0BD1F9E02.png
 

Warren

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Had one that was earlier down since 1969 an AMCO top. Cut in a parking lot at USC according to the second owner. First one owned it for one year. Did it have a grey backing on the inside of the vinyl nope.
 

michael-king

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Had one that was earlier down since 1969 an AMCO top. Cut in a parking lot at USC according to the second owner. First one owned it for one year. Did it have a grey backing on the inside of the vinyl nope.
Warren,

Are you suggesting there were factory tops that didnt have the grey interior?

I can confidently say all the stock production factory tops were black outside with the light grey interior also why the cars had the grey frames. They make the interior much more pleasant with the roof up.

The aftermarket tops all varied.. Many had black interior ( amco for sure) but they also offered the white cream tan etc tops... But they are period not factory
 

Warren

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I'm saying that it's likely that they used whatever vendor that was the cheapest back then. As well as even a two year old car like my MK2 could have been changed.
 

michael-king

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I'm saying that it's likely that they used whatever vendor that was the cheapest back then. As well as even a two year old car like my MK2 could have been changed.
Ah got you.. Yes the replacement tops would likely be whatever was available. The factory all used the everflex with the grey interior.. But i think all other toos had interior colour the same as exterior . black/black, white/white tan/tan
 

65beam

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I'm thinking that Warren is saying that with the financial condition of Rootes especially during the transition of selling to Chrysler that money was tight for them and it's quite possible that it was a "use what you can get or what is in the parts bins" situation because some sources may have cut their credit lines or cut them off completely. That means there may have been running changes different from what should have been. There are cars in the states that were built with variances from what should have been.
 

0neoffive

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I'm thinking that Warren is saying that with the financial condition of Rootes especially during the transition of selling to Chrysler that money was tight for them and it's quite possible that it was a "use what you can get or what is in the parts bins" situation because some sources may have cut their credit lines or cut them off completely. That means there may have been running changes different from what should have been. There are cars in the states that were built with variances from what should have been.
From decades of working with these critters, I can Ditto your comment.
 
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