Steering Rack Boot-Leak

[CLGTiger]

After this morning's breakfast run, noticed puddle of oil under car. Further examination revealed a torn steering rack boot with what appears to be oil dripping out. I have two questions for the vastly more experienced here...

1. I see Victoria British sells a silicone boot kit. Any other recommendations or anyone have experience with this?

2. Curious [to me] oil is dripping out. Shouldn't there just be grease inside? I'm an old lawn mower mechanic so please forgive if this is elementary...

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Chris

 

[big_mike_85614]

After this morning's breakfast run, noticed puddle of oil under car. Further examination revealed a torn steering rack boot with what appears to be oil dripping out. I have two questions for the vastly more experienced here...

1. I see Victoria British sells a silicone boot kit. Any other recommendations or anyone have experience with this?

2. Curious [to me] oil is dripping out. Shouldn't there just be grease inside? I'm an old lawn mower mechanic so please forgive if this is elementary...

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Chris

I just did the boot replacement on my Tiger. I used the Victoria British boot kit. SS also has boot kits. You need to remove the steering rack from the vehicle to reboot it. I replaced the tie rod ends while there. Yes it is 90 weight gear oil in there. You need to put one boot on, hang the rack vertically and pour the oil in the other side. The repair manual could be helpful.

 

[bernd_st]

That's the ideal way of how to do it. Just exchanged driver side boot as well which was torn with the rack in situ. It was fiddly to slip the bigger end onto the rack but it is possible. Refill with was done by a big injection needle and small hole in the upper rubber portion. I know it's a bit crude but hey it saves a lot time...

 

[CLGTiger]

I guess it comes down to how difficult a job it is to remove the steering rack...

 

[Paul4223]

I guess it comes down to how difficult a job it is to remove the steering rack...

The following is just one man's experience. Mine. I had never done this on my car before, so it was "on the job training."

I recently replaced both boots on my Tiger. I found it necessary to remove the radiator to gain enough access to the rack to fit the new boots even though some others assured me I did not have to do that.

Once the radiator was out, I unsuccessfully tried to drain the remaining old lubricant by tilting the car up on the driver's side and then, with the boots on, inject the new fluid with various syringe-like devices. It was frustratingly slow and very messy- I was trying to "save some time" by using this technique. HAH!

Getting nowhere fast, at that point, I decide to let the project sit for a couple of days and did some gardening instead.

When I went back to working on the Tiger I realized that there were only four, count 'em, FOUR bolts that held the rack in place plus a pinch bolt which attached the steering mechanism to the rack. It took all of ten minutes to remove the rack from the car. I then positioned the rack vertically, drained the remaining lube, and added the new lube. That procedure took at least three times as long as it did to remove the darn rack!

After everything was put back together I realized there's a good reason why most guys remove the rack to service it.

 

[CLGTiger]

The following is just one man's experience. Mine. I had never done this on my car before, so it was "on the job training."

I recently replaced both boots on my Tiger. I found it necessary to remove the radiator to gain enough access to the rack to fit the new boots even though some others assured me I did not have to do that.

Once the radiator was out, I unsuccessfully tried to drain the remaining old lubricant by tilting the car up on the driver's side and then, with the boots on, inject the new fluid with various syringe-like devices. It was frustratingly slow and very messy- I was trying to "save some time" by using this technique. HAH!

Getting nowhere fast, at that point, I decide to let the project sit for a couple of days and did some gardening instead.

When I went back to working on the Tiger I realized that there were only four, count 'em, FOUR bolts that held the rack in place plus a pinch bolt which attached the steering mechanism to the rack. It took all of ten minutes to remove the rack from the car. I then positioned the rack vertically, drained the remaining lube, and added the new lube. That procedure took at least three times as long as it did to remove the darn rack!

After everything was put back together I realized there's a good reason why most guys remove the rack to service it.

Thanks Paul. I will follow these guidelines. Did you use the Vic British silicone replacements?

 

[Paul4223]

Thanks Paul. I will follow these guidelines. Did you use the Vic British silicone replacements?

I used boots from SS.

PM just sent. YMMV

Oh, and while the radiator was out, I took the opportunity to refinish the fan shroud, straighten some bent radiator fins, gently touched up some scuffs on the radiator using a very fine mist of Rustoleum sprayed at an angle, and replaced all hoses. I also flushed the radiator as well.

Good luck Chris!

 

[0neoffive]

Lazy Old Guy

After this morning's breakfast run, noticed puddle of oil under car. Further examination revealed a torn steering rack boot with what appears to be oil dripping out. I have two questions for the vastly more experienced here...

1. I see Victoria British sells a silicone boot kit. Any other recommendations or anyone have experience with this?

2. Curious [to me] oil is dripping out. Shouldn't there just be grease inside? I'm an old lawn mower mechanic so please forgive if this is elementary...

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Chris

We've used both the silly-cone and rubber boot kits. Time will tell which is better. I remove the tie rod ends (counting the threads carefully) and replace the boots (trimming as needed). I use a large syringe (pet store feeder) with a length of tubing to feed the boots while elevating the loose arm.

 

[hottigr]

That's the ideal way of how to do it. Just exchanged driver side boot as well which was torn with the rack in situ. It was fiddly to slip the bigger end onto the rack but it is possible. Refill with was done by a big injection needle and small hole in the upper rubber portion. I know it's a bit crude but hey it saves a lot time...

I used the big injection needle and small hole in the upper rubber portion about 20 years ago...if you put the hole on the top of the mountain and not down in the valley, the rubber is stiffer on top and it doesn't have to stretch as much when turning. I have not had a tear in the boot in the 20 years since I used this method.