Tach Rebuild

DAH

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I ran across an article on how to upgrade a tach out of an Alpine with a few new components and it was stated that it did reduce the adjustability.Does anybody know if this same upgrade will work on a Tiger or has anybody done this.On the subject of electronics I just bought a new voltage stabilizer from Moss and when I hooked it up to a battery to check it the instrument side was showing 14 volts shouldn't it read 10 volts?

Thanks David
 

pfreen

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I rebuilt my tach exactly as the author described. Before, the calibration of the tach would double in the Florida heat.
After the rebuild no apparent calibration shift. I used my digital timing light as my reference. I bought the components from Digikey as the author suggests.
I highly recommend.
Btw, I have the Fast, XRI ignition system, and the tach works fine with it. I assume the Pertronix unit will work as well with these tach modifications.
 

theo_s

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The only difference between an Alpine tach and the Tiger one, is that the face is different (7k and 5.5k ranges), and the Tiger one will receive twice as many ignition pulses per engine revolution as the Alpine one. The net effect is that the Tiger tach needs less amplification of the ignition pulses to produce the correct reading, and the amounts for each are generally within the range of adjustment.
The bigger problem with the old tachs is that the capacitors crack or otherwise become 'leaky', and the old germanium transistors are not really good for the job - you could probably sell them to a music enthusiast to make a distortion pedal and pay for the rest of the tach rebuild with the money you got.
I have been building tach circuit replacement boards for over 20 years, most specifically to deal with issues that occur when people use pertronix or other points-replacement systems. If you're not ready to dive into the tach and start replacing parts then that board might work for you... I supply them to Tom Hall as well as doing tachs for people myself and we have done several hundred over the years.

The OEM instrument voltage stabilizer is a bimetal contact strip that is dependent on heating effect of a wire wound around the strip and by the amount of current going through it. The first important thing is that it must be mounted to an electrically grounded surface. Secondly, it may require the gauges to be connected to provide a nominal load. Then, the output of the "stabilizer" is a square wave that switches between 0 volts and whatever the input voltage is, presumably at a rate that reduces the average voltage to 10 volts. These things generally work OK for a while and then the points get dirty after a number of years, and they stop working consistently.
 

pfreen

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As discussed before, it is original only once, if that is what you want.
I am sure everyones aftermarket tachs and conversions work fine. I am just saying the original tach can be made to work. The parts cost about 20 dollars delivered from Digikey. I do however have digital oscilloscopes, soldering desoldering equipment and a frequency generator, all from an earlier career.
I made a frequency to voltage converter for my Lotus tach using a 555 timer ic to replace the original tach circuitry since the ignition system I have on it puts out a 5 volt square wave and would not work with the Old British current sensing tachs. But, I wasn't trying to keep it original. My Tiger, I am.
 

Austin Healer

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I have a 7K Alpine (series 5) tach in my MK2 Tiger. All I had to do was change the 4 to an 8 on the face and adjust the tach. I used letraset transfer numbers It works fine and is dead accurate. Took less than 5 minutes to change the number on the face and adjust. I have the original tach stored away.

All of the Smiths/Jaegar electronic tachs are basically the same and don't care if you have 4, 6 or 8 cylinders. I've run the Alpine tachs with V6's as well, with no issues. If you have a MK1 or Mk1a you could use the face from a series 4 Alpine gauge on the later series 5 electric tach and have matching (more or less) faces. I never really liked the LAT tach (A modified MGB unit) as the bezel and face are completely wrong and it has a redundant charge idiot light.

Resetting the the tach is very easy. Remove the tach from its case, connect green power lead (12 volts) and the white induction wire, connect a ground to one of the 2 mounting screws (for the case) On the circuit board there is a white and black potentiometer with a slot for a small screwdriver in the center. Adjust for correct readout by connecting a tach/dwell meter for reference. Reassemble and install gauge. EASY!!!
 

DAH

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Thanks all for the input I like using the original stuff if at all possible and plan on using the stock points distributor so if I can this tach to work I'll be happy:)
 

pfreen

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420
One thing to remember is the white wire going to the ballast resistor has to loop one way only. There is a reference out there which documents which way. If you have problems, let me know.
 

DAH

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I'll put that in my notes so I don't forget.This is a long term project hopefully I can get to the motor next year.
 
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