I recently created Tiger horn hole block off plates for my car and they came out really nice and are pretty simple to mount using the existing horn mount. The plates come from a computer generated pattern and are made from water jet cut aluminum. The plates look like they could have been an option and not like some afterthought created in my garage, they can be painted or left in the aluminum finish. I'd like to make these available but need a minimum order of 8 pairs to get my guy to make them in quantity @ $32.00 a set. I've got mine so if you want yours get in contact with me and I'll get yours on order. In everything I've read this is one of the easiest ways to address Tiger overheating issues and can drop engine temp up to 5 degrees or more. If you'd like more info or have questions call me 503-384-9517 or cell 503-799-8702.............I hope this might help some of you who have been wanting to install this improvement on your car. Cheers, Don Lutjen
Tiger Horn Hole block off plates
- Thread starter 67tiger
- Start date
These block off plates will use the existing horn mounting platforms. If you're using stock horns there is an area that will be outlined on the plate that will need to be removed to alleviate interference. This area is approximately 1.5" high and 2" long rectangular in shape, this will only be necessary on the drivers side plate. The passenger side will require a small spacer on the left hand side and under the mounting plate and will be included. There is no problem with the engineering, I'm just trying to make them versatile and usable by those that keep those heavy Rootes horns or opt to eliminate, replace, or relocate horns. My intention is to make this as simple as possible as these cars are already a pain to work on. I think the benefits from these plates will out way any potential installation challenges. Mine pop right into place without horns and take no more than five minutes a side to install. I'll try to get more pictures on here.
Attachments
The only way to go - http://www.catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=1601
- Messages
- 333
Does blocking the airflow through these holes actually help with cooling? I have always believed that the tightly packed engine compartment was the biggest factor in Tiger overheating.
I think venting the engine compartment would help more than plugging it up. All water cooled engines receive some amount of air cooling as well.
I think venting the engine compartment would help more than plugging it up. All water cooled engines receive some amount of air cooling as well.
- Messages
- 4,150
red tiger.. the issue for horn hole blocking was for staitionary periods.. stops the hot air cycling back through the radiator when the car is still. Dukes invention of the operable flaps (1980's audi WRC style) made the best of both worlds...
and yes.. odd this thread and another have been dug up for some random comments after so long.. but also not surprised at all given the cause.
P. Scofield
Black arm band member RIP
- Messages
- 384
I'd like a set for my Alpine. How do I order. Very reasonably priced I might add!
Duke,
Did you ever settle on the added weight needed to open the doors wider at a lower speed?
Just what I have in that thread. I have yet to get a camera back in there to check. Law of physics tells me that they open sooner and wider with the added weight/air resistance.
I have mine totally blocked now.
Since I had the problem with my brake booster caused by excessive heat, I have been giving some thought about doing doors like yours to let fresh air into the engine compartment. It occurred to me that the door doesn't really need a spring loaded hinge if it is hinged from the top and to the inside of the engine compartment. Since it is designed to prevent hot air from the engine compartment recirculating back around to the front to be pulled back through the radiator at idle and low speeds, differential air pressure from the engine compartment (created by the fan) and gravity would naturally keep the door closed at idle and low speeds, and they would be free to open whenever air pressure in front of them was higher than behind. Kind of like a one-way air valve. It really doesn't need springs to keep them closed. They would just need foam rubber seals to keep them from rattling.
I thought about which way I wanted the doors to open. Because I was having a issue with hot intake air into the carb (outside air temps over 100), I wanted the forced air to initiate and be direct up along the hood towards the carb.
But I believe you are correct that if they are hinged at the top, would not need springs.
But I believe you are correct that if they are hinged at the top, would not need springs.
Just as long as it's closed cell. Don't want to sponge up moisture although engine heat may keep it dried out. How about rubber seal similar to that around engine bay opening? And might be able to get by with just an inch long piece or so along bottom edge just to keep metal flap from making contact?
- Messages
- 521
what about an elbow behind
the flap to direct air upwards, just taking both concepts...
top flap, no spring/weights, with 45deg elbow pointed up to bonnet underside or even a ram tube(s) for folks like Duke?
just guessing that even though the lower hinged flap directs some air up, a lot of velocity and cool temperature loss may occur in the non-directed airflow lost to the sides of the flap, no?
Not the very best pic I could find, but MK's audi comments made me think of headlight funnel / air intake, ala
Seems to me, even those of us (that will eventually) having milder motors, would want the greatest displacement of underhood temp possible. The more cool air directed UP and mixing with the hotter air up there, the better.
also...
Anyone try an undertray yet, to create vacuum / pressure diff and suck heat out of underside?
wondering is fun...
the flap to direct air upwards, just taking both concepts...
top flap, no spring/weights, with 45deg elbow pointed up to bonnet underside or even a ram tube(s) for folks like Duke?
just guessing that even though the lower hinged flap directs some air up, a lot of velocity and cool temperature loss may occur in the non-directed airflow lost to the sides of the flap, no?
Not the very best pic I could find, but MK's audi comments made me think of headlight funnel / air intake, ala
Seems to me, even those of us (that will eventually) having milder motors, would want the greatest displacement of underhood temp possible. The more cool air directed UP and mixing with the hotter air up there, the better.
also...
Anyone try an undertray yet, to create vacuum / pressure diff and suck heat out of underside?
wondering is fun...