Tonneau Pattern Soft top

Warren

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1st off anyone have a Robbins tonneau cover with a Autopower roll bar installed? It is easy to tell as the mfg code is stamped on the drivers side rear leg bracket. Fitting a cover around the bar would be really easy with a paper pattern which would be easy to do from a completed installation.

Another problem is our esteemed leader pointed out to me the other day that even pro restorers forget to mount the front mounting studs after installing a new dash and have to remove the screen to locate and drill holes. Any other ideas on this fun project that got a lot tougher?

Thanks
 

XTIGERX

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501
In lieu of a paper template I made up a cardboard one. Taped 2 pieces together to make it wide enough and cut wide around the roll bar for the rear. Did similar for in front of bar to windshield. Provided opening for wheel and trimmed around windshield and wings. Glued in patch pieces with holes of the correct size for the bars. Put completed pieces in place and pushed down on the existing fasteners for locations and punched out holes with punch. I can lay the cover down on the cardboard to locate the fasteners. I'm installing them inboard a tad to stretch the top tight. How much so is just a guess on my part.

I put a thin piece of oak underneath where the front and rear pieces lap so it doesn't cave in and I can lay the rolled up tonneau on top. Careful sliding the piece under so I don't chew up the lip on the side window rubber.

Warren, how do you intend on finishing off around the bar holes? That is my hold up right now. I started from the rear but can't lay out flat till the holes are cut. I have the holes marked but if I use a shop to finish the holes I want them to cut so there is proper material for their technique. When I get forward to the dash whatever material I have left will determine front stud locations yet to be installed. I left a suggestion in regards to installing front studs when you posted a similar question in another thread. Did you miss it or don't think it will work?

Before the new dash pad was installed I'm almost certain there were twist top fasteners front center. Lift-the-dot fastener stud type would be difficult to get fingers under in the front to lift up because of the glass above so may go with the twisters again. I guess with lift-the-dot studs a short pull strap is installed for easier access.
 

Warren

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Pattern

Cardboard and butcher paper are a good template material. Yours looks like a much easier project with less posts in the rear behind the fuel pump access.

I am sure the original design with the center hold down strap that mounted and pulled the center down for anti flapping.

I have had other tonneaus on other cars that needed a batten as well as all hell breaks loose when rolled back far enough for a passenger. Rolling up the cover or folding it and dropping behind the seat is way easier then complete removal

Please keyword your post to the easy button for drilling the stud location on dash without removing screen.

Zippers or Velcro with a under laid flap is the usual method for allowing the cut outs for the bar itself or supports.

Probably going to default to a boat canvas guy. I am hoping that someone is close and has a completed cover just to make it easier for whomever I get help from.

Seems everyone is more alike than different with covers being bought and then put on months or years later only then to find irregularities from the Mfg. Holy cow where the heck is a Robbins certified installer? There are only 2 shops left in my area and one of them is like always been crazy priced and the other has changed hands repeatledy.

At the last fix / swap meet a few of the guys were discussing the different dimensions between hinges and hardtops on different cars. Chalk the irregularities up to the way the car was built hardly an exact process.

I would expect each car to be a little different and I am keeping that in mind.
It might be easier to just cover the car when parked but I sure enjoy not seeing personal items blow out of the car at speed or picked in the parking lot as out of sight makes for out of mind. I would really like to get it done rather than be a back burner job that lingers for years. Thanks for your response..
 

XTIGERX

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501
Cardboard and butcher paper are a good template material. Yours looks like a much easier project with less posts in the rear behind the fuel pump access.

2 holes or 3 not much difference I see in the work involved.

Rolling up the cover or folding it and dropping behind the seat is way easier then complete removal

Just what I have considered doing as I'm more interested is shading the rear seat / shelf. Although it would be nice to include the back of the passenger seat when not in use.

Please keyword your post to the easy button for drilling the stud location on dash without removing screen.

Finding the location of the "easy button" had me looking all over for a while, I knew you were talking tags but just couldn't find that tiny link down there at the bottom. Not sure how to use the "Tags" after the fact and not really interested. I suggested using a "long drill bit". Search for those 3 terms including the quotes and the post should pop up. The bit may not be your cup of tea.

Zippers or Velcro with a under laid flap is the usual method for allowing the cut outs for the bar itself or supports.

Yep, I know about the zips and velcro. I was asking about how you intended to finish off around the holes themselves. Leave a raw cut, hem or finish with a material that would close off against posts. Just curious, another method? Pretty much has to be velcro as zippers of the type required are impossible to find. Short, heavy duty, plastic, jacket zippers are required and there just isn't much of a need for that item. Eliminating one of the variables and you might have some luck. I've got a guy working on the holes and waiting for a call to pick it ... oops, phone rings, and it is ready for pick-up. Less than half a day turn around and an hour+ actual labor.

I just need to add the "dots" at the door / bar area and with the batten it's ready to start being used. 2 more "dots" installed at the door / wing and it will be all dash fasteners left. Looks like 4 required across the dash, the center 2 and one in each "corner".

Probably going to default to a boat canvas guy. I am hoping that someone is close and has a completed cover just to make it easier for whomever I get help from.

I was under the impression from one shop that a boat canvas shop would be necessary to finish around the holes and started going in that direction but as it turns out don't see the need. Using another's as a template would certainly reduce the time of having to figure it out or paying someone else to. I don't see many roll bar / tonneau combos out there, let alone a tiger, or the specific multi-holer you're looking for. It way be a wait or a "back burner" if you don't jump on it yourself or pay the dollar.

Seems everyone is more alike than different with covers being bought and then put on months or years later only then to find irregularities from the Mfg. Holy cow where the heck is a Robbins certified installer? There are only 2 shops left in my area and one of them is like always been crazy priced and the other has changed hands repeatledy.

With the Tiger sometimes it's better to buy now and store because if you can find it later you may have to pay more $$$$$$. Robbins has an installer search. When I first looked in my area there were 2 on Lomita another on Del Amo. Don't know what it takes to become worthy (just by asking?). Del Amo I would have gone with (probably $$$$) but he said to "check back with later" which means he's wasn't interested. 1 of the other 2 worked out of an old DIY car wash doing window tints, stereo / alarm installs and wheels. Might be OK but not at my comfort level to leave the car there.
 

XTIGERX

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501
Well I got up to the dash. To do the dash the way I'm hoping the seats have to come out, will be easier than removing windshield, and the glove box. If I can at least get to the passengers side and install the missing studs it's usable.

Attached is someones, looks like AZ plates, red Tiger. Looks nice. Damn, bounce a coin off it tight as a drum. Almost seems to crown up. Zipper straight as an arrow. I had to add another pic to show the affect of lighting.

Mine, I have a few ripples. It's not attached along the dash so it's all over the place. The flash doesn't help either makes the ripples look worse. Yeah, that's it. It's the flash. LOL I'm missing a stud right of left hinge. The snap at lower right needs to be repositioned but will fall centered on the stitching. I might be off center on the whole thing a 1/4" to 1/2" at the wind wings but the whole zipper needs to move right an inch+ at the front to appear centered. I'll put that on Robbins.

The notch around the wind wings is different comparing left side to right. I'm jambed about 1/2" to much against drivers side wind wing with <1/4" gap on the passenger. I'll take it back to the upholsters and have him make an adjustment. The cover runs straight down along the sides.

I changed out the side mirror but it is a cheap plastic replacement. Anyone know a good source for side mirrors? Much, much improved rear vision though.
 
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cobrakidz

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I like the idea of the velcro, looks good and probably easy to work with the cover now.
 

Warren

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Closer

You are a lot closer to being finished than me, Justin. Using the same piping as what Robbins uses around the edge looks good, Judging from your suggestions of Lomita an Del Amo we are close together. I can think of 5 Tigers in the South bay and 2 of them have an Autopower bar. I am sure we will cross paths maybe at Ruby's or next 3rd Sunday Brit, meet at Golden Cove.

My big problem is not paying a canvas or interior shop it is just making the job do able as most shops trend to say no to custom work and focus on production work.

Also the big problem is the re locating of the dash pad studs. The car came with all other studs installed but those pesky dash mounted ones. When I asked a fellow owner the report was that it is a common oversight made by many restorers or repairers. I have been under the dash with the seats out and see no old holes to drill up thru with a long bit.

My screen is pitted badly and has a tatty rubber . Luckily I have a parts car to practice removal on as it seems inevitable, but not pressing unless the chip in the screen decides to crack and run on a hot day.
 

michael-king

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On the dash studs.. while this is a PITA to access at times, the other option is to put the studs in the screws for the windscreen demisters.

You can install them with a little effort and then mount tennex style buttoms to make removal of the cover easier.. or use the flat ones and make longer pull tabs for them so you dont have to jamb your fingers down there to get them off.

It's not correct but in many ways nicer than having the 4 posts sticking out of the middle of the dash. I have this on my SII and they have a steeper screen.. is a little more fiddly.. but might be a better option than trying ot put studs through an installed dash pad... just a thought
 

XTIGERX

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501
A difficulty with the Robbins covers is that they seem to be cut short lengthwise. Maybe not? It's catch 22. I can't stretch tight enough without the fasteners installed and can't install the fasteners until I can stretch tight enough to find out where to locate them.

I have the cover pulled so the notches in it fit right against the back window edge of the wind wings. If I put a lit-the-dot fastener as close as possible to the edge of the cover but inside the finished edge I'm still 2" back from the outside screw of the windscreen demister so using them is out of the question but do appreciate the suggestion Michael. I do have in mind another way to use a couple of those demister screw hole locations though but want to put it down on paper first.

The replacement covers have to have been cut short. They can't expect the cover to be stretched another 2" to 3" across the depth (9-10") of the dash alone. As I said I'm already into the corners of the cover at the back of the wind wings.

I was thinking to drill new holes Warren I have none existing either. I haven't peeked under there for about a year but last time I did I thought it might be doable. I looked closer yesterday at the passenger side and though the 2 corners seem doable the center 2 would be tough. Have an alternate idea for here as mentioned above.

I haven't looked. What's involved in removing the windshield? 2-4 nuts? Mine has been off in recent times so may not be that difficult.
 

Warren

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Gang up

Be happy to tag team on the cover together. I would think laying my Robbins on yours for comparison sure might clear up some questions .The red factory manual says remove all the stainless first then work out the glued in screen. I think I have seen pics of the frame with screen in..? To me it looks like it comes off as a unit after one or two bolts according to pictures I have seen. Hopefully our brethren will chime in. There may be some clues in the Tigers Utd. email archives if you can't wait.
Please PM me off forum or do the email directly option, or we could meet up at Ruby's at the pier Friday.

1 more thing.. I have a parts car that a buyer is asking for the screen frame. If someone has a photo of where the rust forms if hidden that would be great. I am thinking don't sell my spare till I see if mine has hidden rust.
 

XTIGERX

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Warren, sounds like a plan. In fact I don't need my cardboard template anymore. We can look at it and see if we can patch it up to add a 3rd hole for your cover. I haven't done any homework re: windscreen removal. Maybe we can look at that as well. I'll PM you.
 

XTIGERX

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501
In another thread I mentioned what appears by original design to be a rubber dam seal against the windshield. It probably didn't work all that well anyway. See attachment.

It just occurred to me that if your replacement tonneau seems short that an extension piece could be sewn on to make the cover the correct length. Then the screws in the demister could be used for fasteners. A similar rubber dam "seal" could be attached along the new seam to conceal it and making it somewhat correct in appearance.

The new "seal" now located back a few inches farther might actually help drain a bit better. It would need to be attached properly to be somewhat functional to resist water from seeping under and thru new seam. The fasteners would be between screen and "seal". Seal acting only as a dam now. Also the tonneau would now cover the demister vents helping to keep debris out of them as well.
 

Bullypit

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tonneau cover

Some may not like my approach, but I have used this for several covers to good effect. The one on my red car is an Amco tonneau which I cut across under the rollbar and fitted with a zipper that zips between the two bar verticals. Around the verticals I had the trim shop attached rolled pieces of vinyl with snaps to snug against the bar. It is not really water tight, but fits quite well, and I don"t leave the car out in the rain anymore anyway. See attached phot which I hope gives you the idea.

Bill Bulpitt/Atlanta
 
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XTIGERX

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501
Nice looking flat tonneau. Well done Bullypit and welcome! The zipper is a great idea and could be used on a Robbin's cover where a third post / brace occurs.

I'm having mine stretched out now as I type. Actually not stretching but having a small strip attached across the front so I can utilize the screw holes in the de-mister vents.

At the moment not to certain as to results, the upholstery guy was a little quite today. Will see how it turns out.
 

George Simpson

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tonneau cover

Hi all, I bought two tonneau covers on ebay both came up about two inchs short so i had two options have a couple inches added to front of tonneau or drill holes behind origional studs with windshield on car used close quarter drill (90 degree drillmotor) with 1/16 center drill now both sunbeams have tonneau covers. very simple fix less then 30 minutes to drill 4 tiny holes on top of dash:)
 

Warren

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Come on

Have some courage George and build a dam that will help if it ever gets wet to keep the water from rolling by and over the dash. I bought mine on ebay but from a a local club member.

I'd leave it in the sun and try to strech it out some first . If you want to compare it against mine maybe at next event.
 

XTIGERX

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501
I ..(snip).. used close quarter drill (90 degree drillmotor) with 1/16 center drill ..(snip).. very simple fix less then 30 minutes to drill 4 tiny holes on top of dash:)

Glad that worked out for you. I had considered using 90* offset attachment for a few minutes but after measuring the length of offset, chuck and drill couldn't be much longer than 3" altogether. I could snap the end off a drill and resharpen but I'm afraid would still be too long to be able to drill holes perp. to the dash. Guess it all depends on how far forward you want the fasteners also.

Just pulled out a screw from the de-mister and was hoping for it to be a sheet metal screw so it could be replaced with similar kind of fastener stud. Turned out to be what looks like a 10-32. Will have to see if that is the size used for LTD or Tenax fastener threaded bolts.

Windshield removal is out for me as I think it will just open another can of worms. Looks like there are 2 bolts each post and at least 3 more in the field.

Tonneau extension came out OK. Not what I wanted but acceptable. The guy doing the work had a better method (which was quicker for him) but not the look I had envisioned but in the end both will look about the same. Made them a bit too long but that gives me a bit of a handle to stretch with. And of course each side was made a different length. LOL I'll take it back and have them trimmed for a few more bucks in -his- pocket.
 

XTIGERX

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501
I feel I've kind of taken over Warren's thread here but he's seen what I've been up to and I'm still somewhat on topic and it keeps it all together in one spot.

I finally found the fasteners I needed so have basically finished the tonneau install.

I went with Lift-Dot fasteners all the way around. I looked at the Tenax fasteners but felt the small ball end of stud was too delicate. I had a couple of them that came with the car but never knew what they were. Both had the ball sheared off.

I used the demister screw locations. When installing the studs they seemed too close to the windshield but worked out fine. Not sure their exact size but the threaded portion is 3/4" long. Box said 10/32 but they had a metric tightening "nut" so they may be M5.

I had an upholsterer add 2 strips of material along the front edge. At first I thought they were a bit wider than necessary but worked out perfectly sealing right up against the wind screen seal. Don't expect this to keep water out but will keep leaves, etc. from lodging in the vents. The extra material also helps as a place for purchase to align the fastener parts while putting the cover on and as a pull to lift-the-dot for removal.

I mentioned earlier that I thought I was off center by the time I got to the dash since starting from the rear but all I needed were the studs along the front to get it all aligned.

Straight and as tight as a drum.

I am missing one stud adjacent to trunk hinge but can't install without putting the soft top up, which has never been up since install, and getting to it from inside. Appears to be a sheet metal part of the body boxed around the fasteners along the trunk edge. Guess I could drill down from outside to locate then drill a big enough hole up from inside the trunk. Solutions are popping into mind as I type. As an alternate solution if I can find a fastener stud with a larger diam. sheet metal thread than what exists might work also but was tough just finding longer bolt threaded fastener studs.
 
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michael-king

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original tonneau

These are some pics i took on the weekend of what i believe to be an original NOS late alpine/tiger tenneau for a LHD car.. This has the tension strap, grey backing and aero zips.. There seems ot have been design changes in the covers over the last few years as the position of the drain flap varies in some i have seen.

Strangley i was looking at 2 other covers RHD that were factory equipment and they have a different drain pattern at the front, a metal eyelet for the front centre peg... and... white pipping.. we thought it might have been aftermarket until another owner showed us his which was the same and still in its rootes bag... will post pics of those soon when i get a chance to catch-up with them and take soe pics. Of note they still have the rootes install instructions and it mentions different methods and mounting for Gt and ST models on the alpine.. very odd. Will try and borrow the material amd scan/upload soon.

http://community.webshots.com/album/583435591oFOtzX


 

XTIGERX

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501
When I bought the Tiger I found a mildewed tonneau in the trunk in the bottom of a cardboard box of misc. parts. I believe it was an original cover. It had the rubber dam across the front and had 2 of the twist-top post fasteners for the front center location.

When I bought the Robbins cover it came with a partial set of those twisty post fasteners. I contacted the well known seller of Tiger parts where I made the purchase if I was missing parts realizing they were middlemen but just got the short answer of "it came with the parts you need" and left it at that so never was sure whether the twist-tops were original or not. Appears they may have been.

On the new cover I had asked the upholsterer to remove the hem material and lap splice on the new extension pieces with the intention of possibly adding on a rubber dam along the splice for appearance sake only. Don't think I'll bother adding the dam now it just makes folding up and storing more difficult. To give the upholsterer some credit his feelings were that the extensions could be removed at some point in time and the cover would be back in its original configuration without any additional work.
 
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