Trunk Boot Prop Rod

[sandy]

Anyone ditch the rear springs and related to make a simple prop rod to hold the hood up. I have an idea of something, but want to see if anyone else might have done it.

Looking at using a couple of quick release rod ends on a 3/8" aluminum tube with the ball ends in one of the holes on the passenger (USA Car) side that looks to be 1/4"x28 and make a small plate for the second ball end on the trunk in a good spot.

Thoughts...

And no, I'm not going to want the 5 lbs of spring and mechanism on the track car

 

[michael-king]

I've got a car without the springs... Boot is heavy AF. Mine has a rod from the bonnet to prop it open.( It's a race car so not really an issue)

A few years back in the SAOCA forum a guy sold kits with brackets that allowed the use of small hatchback gas struts

 

[michael-king]

A pic of the bonnet style prop in the boot.

 

[IvaTiger]

Surely it kinda racks the trunk lid by only being supported on one side , can’t be too good for the hinges since they are only made of pot metal and tightening them to accommodate the single support strut might mean stressing them ?

 

[sandy]

Oops, this post ended up in the wrong area, Admin can you move... Have to stop posting on the phone

 

[sandy]

I've got a car without the springs... Boot is heavy AF. Mine has a rod from the bonnet to prop it open.( It's a race car so not really an issue)

A few years back in the SAOCA forum a guy sold kits with brackets that allowed the use of small hatchback gas struts

Yeah, was thinking something similar but with a quick release to pull the rod out completely using a couple of Quick release ball rod ends (like what's on some carbs). I saw someone who did the hole saw lightening to the internal structures a while back, can't remember where or where (maybe Willow) but I though likely not going to save much weight when all said and done, and I would likely slip up with the hole saw and have a hole OUTSIDE the trunk

Surely it kinda racks the trunk lid by only being supported on one side , can’t be too good for the hinges since they are only made of pot metal and tightening them to accommodate the single support strut might mean stressing them ?

Not really going to be a problem I think, not in the trunk except to fill the cell up or inspect stuff. Could also make the prop rod come not from the side, but the center of the boot. Might be interesting to do it that way.

 

[65beam]

Yeah, was thinking something similar but with a quick release to pull the rod out completely using a couple of Quick release ball rod ends (like what's on some carbs). I saw someone who did the hole saw lightening to the internal structures a while back, can't remember where or where (maybe Willow) but I though likely not going to save much weight when all said and done, and I would likely slip up with the hole saw and have a hole OUTSIDE the trunk


Not really going to be a problem I think, not in the trunk except to fill the cell up or inspect stuff. Could also make the prop rod come not from the side, but the center of the boot. Might be interesting to do it that way.

Sandy,
Check with Joel Griffin. I seem to remember he mentioned using gas struts for the trunk lid supports.

 

[michael-king]

Not really going to be a problem I think, not in the trunk except to fill the cell up or inspect stuff. Could also make the prop rod come not from the side, but the center of the boot. Might be interesting to do it that way.

If you put it in the centre will give you 6 boot openings before you accidentally knock the rod out and get smacked by the lid .... And when it's not sprung... It's going to be like decapitation 🔪😵

 

[michael-king]

Surely it kinda racks the trunk lid by only being supported on one side , can’t be too good for the hinges since they are only made of pot metal and tightening them to accommodate the single support strut might mean stressing them ?

If used regularly I think the hinges would snap for sure.
If the prop was in the centre... You will bump it and that is one heavy bit of metal....

 

[michael-king]

This kit was made by Bill blue , he used to sell for $25

recommended McMaster-Carr #4138T55, 30 lb. gas spring.

McMaster-Carr #4138T55, 30 lb. They have permanently attached ball studs with 5/16"-18 threads. They have an extended length of 15.24", which increases lid lift. Cost is $17.51 each.

The kit has a slightly different design and is more complete. If the kit buyer purchases these gas springs, no other parts need to be purchased. The original 1/4" mounting bolts can be utilized with no clearance issues.

 

[michael-king]

This is the solution Joel G made I believe:

 

[sandy]

Not so much a fan of the gas struts approach, but might be something to think about if my idea fails.

For the way I was going to do the prop rod it can't come off unless you release it from the ball studs by sliding the mechanism. I have these on some strut rods for a front diffuser on my Mustang and they will not come out of the socket unless you manually release. So was going to use 2 of these on the end of a 3/8" aluminum rod, and hit the studs up on the rear of the opening on the boot where I think near the top rear there is a 1/4"x28 nut in a bracket. Then make a simple bracket for the boot lid.

And yeah didn't think about the rod being in the middle of the opening being a problem for access, but still might be doable since not much really going on in the trunk except filling fuel.

I do have a spare set of hinges, have to see really how weak they are, but again, don't expect to see a lot of use. Sounds like what I need is a lighter lid maybe the hole saw is in order

 

[HolyCat]

Sounds like what I need is a lighter lid maybe the hole saw is in order

Has anyone come up with a boot lid fabricated out of fiberglass, like the LAT hood?

 

[michael-king]

Has anyone come up with a boot lid fabricated out of fiberglass, like the LAT hood?

I know of one in South Africa....

I've seen the oeke with the swaged inner skins which look great and probably save a decent amount of weight.

Iirc Steve Alcala built some alloy skinned bonnets and boots (hoods and trunks) with swaged inner skins. Not sure if the inner skins were alloy too

 

[65beam]

I know of one in South Africa....

I've seen the oeke with the swaged inner skins which look great and probably save a decent amount of weight.

Iirc Steve Alcala built some alloy skinned bonnets and boots (hoods and trunks) with swaged inner skins. Not sure if the inner skins were alloy too

This is the solution Joel G made I believe:

View attachment 17848

View attachment 17849

View attachment 17850

I've seen several trunk lids that have bends in the area where the factory support rods bolt to the inner frame of the trunk lid. This usually happens due to improper adjustment of the support rod springs.

 

[Austin Healer]

I've seen several trunk lids that have bends in the area where the factory support rods bolt to the inner frame of the trunk lid. This usually happens due to improper adjustment of the support rod springs.

or if the trunk lid is closed and something is in the way of stays....

Not so much a fan of the gas struts approach, but might be something to think about if my idea fails.

For the way I was going to do the prop rod it can't come off unless you release it from the ball studs by sliding the mechanism. I have these on some strut rods for a front diffuser on my Mustang and they will not come out of the socket unless you manually release. So was going to use 2 of these on the end of a 3/8" aluminum rod, and hit the studs up on the rear of the opening on the boot where I think near the top rear there is a 1/4"x28 nut in a bracket. Then make a simple bracket for the boot lid.

And yeah didn't think about the rod being in the middle of the opening being a problem for access, but still might be doable since not much really going on in the trunk except filling fuel.

I do have a spare set of hinges, have to see really how weak they are, but again, don't expect to see a lot of use. Sounds like what I need is a lighter lid maybe the hole saw is in order
View attachment 17851

you could also use the stay from an MGB... sliding bar type. locks open when you lift the lid, little lever on the side that you lift with a finger and then the lid will close. very light and you'd only need one. try Moss part 457-540 or 457-445. the difference in the two is in the fully extended length. 457.540 was used for a trunk stay and 457-445 was used for a hood stay. the design is the same. teh Healey 100-4 used one in the trunk as well part 804-530. Moss could give you the dimensions

 

[sandy]

I know of one in South Africa....

I've seen the oeke with the swaged inner skins which look great and probably save a decent amount of weight.

Iirc Steve Alcala built some alloy skinned bonnets and boots (hoods and trunks) with swaged inner skins. Not sure if the inner skins were alloy too

I can only imagine how bad a fiberglass boot lid would fit, and yet I would have it in a second!

When you mean swaged, do you mean lightened with holes?

I keep thinking I was going to do this but given how much material you could get out of the underside brace, I really don't know how much you would save. I would guess with a lot of holesaw-ing maybe a pound or so but given the size of the outer skin vs the under support, not much. Still looked really "Race-y " on the car I saw.

Sandy

 

[sandy]

or if the trunk lid is closed and something is in the way of stays....

you could also use the stay from an MGB... sliding bar type. locks open when you lift the lid, little lever on the side that you lift with a finger and then the lid will close. very light and you'd only need one. try Moss part 457-540 or 457-445. the difference in the two is in the fully extended length. 457.540 was used for a trunk stay and 457-445 was used for a hood stay. the design is the same. teh Healey 100-4 used one in the trunk as well part 804-530. Moss could give you the dimensions

I'll take a look at the MGB hood stay. I think I know what you are talking about might be a good option if my odd idea is a no go.

Sandy

 

[michael-king]

I can only imagine how bad a fiberglass boot lid would fit, and yet I would have it in a second!

When you mean swaged, do you mean lightened with holes?

I keep thinking I was going to do this but given how much material you could get out of the underside brace, I really don't know how much you would save. I would guess with a lot of holesaw-ing maybe a pound or so but given the size of the outer skin vs the under support, not much. Still looked really "Race-y " on the car I saw.

Sandy

Sandy, swaged as in the holes cut and you then radius lip them to add the strength.

The ones Steve did had holes the whole way around the inner skin on the bonnet and boot ( hood and trunk) and the holes went quite close to the edges of the inner skins permiter.. so I would guess there was a decent amount of weight out.

 

[theo_s]

Jere Teepen's Tiger has aluminum hood and trunk lids. Very trick.
I'm currently experimenting with a pair of torsion rods from a Toyota Echo. They're about 6mm diameter and as it turns out, not quite stiff enough (unless I add a bunch more preload, which seems sketchy). So I'm now at a place where I have the two torsion rods PLUS a gas spring, which is not the direction I wanted to go. But lifting the trunk lid is now a one-finger operation.
I think if you had slightly thicker torsion springs (probably 7mm or less) it would do the job. So I need to scout the junk yards for springs that are just a bit beefier than the ones I got.