Wanted Voltage stabilizer
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Austin Healer
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should be a little over 10 volts... I have ordered the Moss ones in the past and never had any issue with them. the Moss ones are solid state, whereas the OE ones had vibrating points. I have at least a half dozen originals
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Try Classic Sunbeam in New York or Sunbeam Specialties in California. Both have web sites and phone numbers. Keep in mind that Moss is not a supplier of Sunbeam parts so that may be the problem with the part you bought.
Austin Healer
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Oh for crying out loud... The only difference between the voltage stabilizer supplied by Moss or Sunbeam Specialties (or Classic Sunbeam) is where it's being shipped from. As long as you order a NEGATIVE ground stabilizer you're going to get the very same part, regardless. They all come from the same manufacturer, and all carry the same base part number. Not like there is a completive market that could possibly support 2 different manufacturers of voltage stabilizers for Smiths/Jaegar gauges...
As I said, the only difference between the new ones and originals is that the new ones are ALL solid state and the originals have vibrating points... Incidentally, this is why the Smiths clocks all fail over time.. The points get damaged and degraded over time and cannot be saved. Which is why I send my clocks to Mike Eck for conversion to solid state..
I know you are trying to support Sunbeam only parts suppliers... which is laudable. BUT, if I can get EXACTLY the same part from another vendor (that I have a wholesale account with) I'm not going to needlessly spend more money to get the very same part from Rick or Classic Sunbeam.
That'd be like saying I'm only going to buy gas from the Union 76 on my corner, even tho I can get it 4 blocks away at another Union 76 for 50 cents a gallon cheaper.
I'd be happy to send you an original FOR THE COST OF SHIPPING... It's not something I need to make money off of.
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When Moss started selling off the windshields that came from VB I found that the folks on the other end of the phone had no clue that they were selling a part for a Sunbeam. The two parts supplier that I mentioned know Beams, sell Sunbeam parts and can make a suggestion of what could be the real problem. Many owners don't know that the original stabilizer has to be mounted in a certain position in order to work correctly. My point is this. Buy from folks that know Sunbeams. FYI, I bought gas at BP yesterday for $2.39 per gal.
Austin Healer
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went through and tested what I have. all test good and I have one boxed and ready to mail. just need an address!
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I'm not sure if Fords are the same ultimate voltage as the Tiger, possibly later ones are but here is an old email quote I had wrote to someone. For a 66 Mustang I had I built an 8 volt solid state regulator, but I don't think is the same voltage as the Tiger's. Close enough to possibly work OK.
Old email
- The stock voltage regulator is like a blinker, it's heat driven. It cycles on and off to create a square wave from 0 to 12 volts. That with the slow dampened meters cause the effect of a capacitor that integrates the voltage to a semi stable 10 volts in the case of the Tiger.
You should hear the thing clicking when powered up. It's a barbaric way to regulate power. Mustang had a similar one, but runs at 8 volts.
I would try the temp gauge alone with the sender and see if that works. It's always a bad chassis ground, engine to chassis ground, or just some rotted wires. Also could be some wires that are making a circuit where they are not. Last one to check is the key switch, all Power runs through that and it's iffy.
It's not going to be something complicated, rotted connections high probability some where.
Resend pic of wire diagram I can get a better feel for it.
Sandy
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The Tiger voltage stabilizer is about 10 volts. Using one with only 8 volts would work, but the readings on the gauges will be low. Last summer while on a long drive I noted that the temp and fuel gauges were reading higher than they should. The fuel gauge read nearly full after traveling over 100 miles. A statistical impossibility. I suspected the voltage stabilizer had died. It turned out that the securing screw was loose. Upon tightening it, the gauge readings returned to normal. The stabilizer will not function correctly without being well grounded.