Wilwood master cylinder advice.

[Duke Mk1a]

Hello all,

Well the new Wilwood front brakes in combination of the rear RX7 brakes is amazing. Never have I had the braking confidence I do now in the Tiger. I can now stop as well as go!

With the larger front calipers it is taking more fluid volume to actuate them. I don't like the feel of the pedal with the OEM 7/8 master cylinder. I want the application of brakes to be at the top of the pedal, not half way down. I would like to go to a 1" bore Wilwood cylinder.

I am keeping the Lockheed booster for the time being.

So - who has experience installing the 1" MC? What issues if any and which one did you go with?

Here are the two candidates -

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-3378

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-10375

TIA!

 

[0neoffive]

Without Fancy Math & Volume

The stock OEM master strokes about 1-1/8" ish. I would stick with a unit that has simular characteristics & highest volume to maintain pedal placement and "feel". I can see some interesting fabrication and possible spacer shimming to get the physical location and connection length correct. Also some line adapting and pedal rod-to-fork adapting.
There are others out there who have tackled these issues; hope they chime in . . . . .

 

[Moondoggie]

Duke,

I am running the much larger six piston wilwoods on the front and four pistons on the back with the stock master cylinder with original power booster
and I can launch myself thru the winshield at will !! Make sure that you have bleed the brakes completely...it doesn't take much air to cause a spongy brake pedal. Next look at your master cylinder and make sure it is in top condition...Bill Martin makes a rebuilt unit with a brass internal sleeve that really works well and that's what I have on my Tiger. The repro stuff has problems and leaks. Also look at the booster Bill also rebuilds the boosters
with a brass sleeve which eliminates any chance for a leak.

Moondoggie

 

[Duke Mk1a]

Make sure that you have bleed the brakes completely...it doesn't take much air to cause a spongy brake pedal.

Will bleed the system again. Had to get some small clear fuel line to do it cleanly. The 1/4" bleed nipples are just stupid small.

 

[66TigerMK1A]

Will bleed the system again. Had to get some small clear fuel line to do it cleanly. The 1/4" bleed nipples are just stupid small.

I hear ya! They couldn't possibly make them any smaller... I bought Speed Bleeders for mine... work great!!

http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm


Jim
B382000446

 

[at the beach]

Hey Duke,

Tilton engineers did a study on the Tiger for us years ago and they were not happy with the lack of mechanical advantage in the stock Tiger pedal (which is only about 4 to 1). The normal is 6:1.

If you go to larger diameter master cylinders this becomes an even larger problem. To overcome some of this I made a plate to move the attachment point for the brake pedal higher. Now I have nearly 6 to 1. Tom Hall has been making a kit for a couple years that does the same thing. Dale has been installing Tom's kit.

Even with this modified pedal, Tilton's computer said I needed a 9/16" MC. Since nobody made MCs that small then, I settled on a 5/8" in the front and a 7/8 for the rear circuit. This is what we use on the SCF Tiger to this day, with stock Girling 16P calipers in the front and the LAT rear disks (off the Daimler SP250 which has 1-11/16" diameter pistons).

good luck,

bt

 

[0neoffive]

Anudder question ?

Hey Duke,
Even with this modified pedal, Tilton's computer said I needed a 9/16" MC. Since nobody made MCs that small then, I settled on a 5/8" in the front and a 7/8 for the rear circuit. This is what we use on the SCF Tiger to this day, with stock Girling 16P calipers in the front and the LAT rear disks (off the Daimler SP250 which has 1-11/16" diameter pistons).

good luck,

bt

Are those Dunlop rear calipers ?

 

[at the beach]

Nope, not Dunlop.

They're Girlings and look like mini versions of the ones the original Cobras used on the rear.
bt

 

[Moondoggie]

The parking brakes on my Cobra would not hold on a flat surface much less
any kind of incline.....The Wilwood set up that Dale sells works extremely
well and I highly recomend it to anyone wanting rear disc brakes.....

Moondoggie

 

[Duke Mk1a]

Just finished installing the Wilwood front lines (CAT SS lines were a tad to short for the set up), and bled the snot (air) out of the system. Moon Dawg was correct, brakes work great with OEM MC, pedal feel is just what I want.

There was quite a bit of air in the lines running to the rear brakes.