B9471122 rebirth
- Thread starter steven
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Steven,
Yes all of the above i am aware of.. the bit that worries me is that most of the holes wleded up.. not just filled.. i am worried about the bit catching and taking a chunk... i will get there... eventually!
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The Guru has a trick
Take a piece of plate aluminum or mild steel to your drill press and poke a hole thru it slightly smaller than what you need in the panel. Using double faced tape to both stick to and protect things, sight the drilled hole directly over the spot you need to drill into. The plate can be held firmly with one hand while you drill with the other, thus the bit will be prevented from wandering off the desired target. As the hole in the plate wears, simple replace it with a new victim . . . . . .and yes, use the sharpest bit you can find.
Take a piece of plate aluminum or mild steel to your drill press and poke a hole thru it slightly smaller than what you need in the panel. Using double faced tape to both stick to and protect things, sight the drilled hole directly over the spot you need to drill into. The plate can be held firmly with one hand while you drill with the other, thus the bit will be prevented from wandering off the desired target. As the hole in the plate wears, simple replace it with a new victim . . . . . .and yes, use the sharpest bit you can find.
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Randy,
Thank that sacraficial templete is a great idea! I was thinking of just offsetting the holes for the strip to avoid hitting the originals.. but the scrpit needs to be in the right spot.. appreciate the idea
Thank that sacraficial templete is a great idea! I was thinking of just offsetting the holes for the strip to avoid hitting the originals.. but the scrpit needs to be in the right spot.. appreciate the idea
Paint removal
Now that the fenders are in position, I have started removing the paint on the left front. Have now stripped it 4 times using chemical stripper 9 (and clingwrap) and can see why it had big cracks in the old paint. I have removed 2 red layers, one dark green layer and have now got down to another final red layer. Having a break to submit this. Even using protection gear the smell of the remover is so overpowering I need a break for a while.
Now that the fenders are in position, I have started removing the paint on the left front. Have now stripped it 4 times using chemical stripper 9 (and clingwrap) and can see why it had big cracks in the old paint. I have removed 2 red layers, one dark green layer and have now got down to another final red layer. Having a break to submit this. Even using protection gear the smell of the remover is so overpowering I need a break for a while.
Will have to post some images soon. Happy with the body so far, will need a better body man than me for the finals. Started on the doner doors, know why I got 2. When I stripped the first, someone has done a very good job drilling holes to pull the metal back intoshape, not once, not twice but 4 places. So next door, its better only 2 or 3 places for plastic filler and thats only shallow, looks like it will be the right side door. The left door next, its origional so wonder whats under the paint?
Here is good door, minor damage. 2nd and 3rd door show whats under paint, more paint and complete body filler covering. Pity is neither door has any rust.
Here is good door, minor damage. 2nd and 3rd door show whats under paint, more paint and complete body filler covering. Pity is neither door has any rust.
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What a great way to start the day
I have been putting off the broken door hinges scew for quite a while. I googled various fixes, most saying go slowly, breaking the ezi-out is a another problem. So I decided on this sunny winter day (9c-24c) to attack the broken screw. I started by selecting a new drill bit that just fitted the hinge hole. I mounted the hinge with the remaining screws and started the drill. It took a few attempts but finally I had a starting point. Changed to a smaller bit and drilled a hole through the screw. At this time the experts said to see if you can either insert a thread remover or remove the old threads of the previous screw. Well, I increased the drill size by 64th inch checking with an old back plate. When my drill said it was less than the thread size and went thru, I retaped the hole and the hinge screw fits perfectly. great start to the day.
I have been putting off the broken door hinges scew for quite a while. I googled various fixes, most saying go slowly, breaking the ezi-out is a another problem. So I decided on this sunny winter day (9c-24c) to attack the broken screw. I started by selecting a new drill bit that just fitted the hinge hole. I mounted the hinge with the remaining screws and started the drill. It took a few attempts but finally I had a starting point. Changed to a smaller bit and drilled a hole through the screw. At this time the experts said to see if you can either insert a thread remover or remove the old threads of the previous screw. Well, I increased the drill size by 64th inch checking with an old back plate. When my drill said it was less than the thread size and went thru, I retaped the hole and the hinge screw fits perfectly. great start to the day.
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Jealous
Sometimes, ya gets lucky . . . . . .
I have been putting off the broken door hinges scew for quite a while. I googled various fixes, most saying go slowly, breaking the ezi-out is a another problem. So I decided on this sunny winter day (9c-24c) to attack the broken screw. I started by selecting a new drill bit that just fitted the hinge hole. I mounted the hinge with the remaining screws and started the drill. It took a few attempts but finally I had a starting point. Changed to a smaller bit and drilled a hole through the screw. At this time the experts said to see if you can either insert a thread remover or remove the old threads of the previous screw. Well, I increased the drill size by 64th inch checking with an old back plate. When my drill said it was less than the thread size and went thru, I retaped the hole and the hinge screw fits perfectly. great start to the day.
Sometimes, ya gets lucky . . . . . .
66TigerMK1A
Gold forum user
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There were also Tiger specific panels to be had... a fellow bought this complete 'Tiger' tunnel from 'Pressed Steel' back in the day... only the horizontal part was needed for repair so he drilled out the spot welds and had the piece ( see pics ) that I bought from him stored for many years...
JiB382000446
Been a long time, many things in the way. Today I called a nephew that owns three body shops and he is sending someone over to check my work and give an estimate for paint ready. Trembling that they don't think my replacing 3 fenders, 2 doors, 1 bonnet is crap. When its gone I will be worried however then I can strip the 5 bolt 289 and start on its rebuild with alloy heads, manifold, sump, billet dizi, 2 carbs, a 450 holley & 600 Edelbrok clone. Meanwhile the box will have wide band cogs fitted, the rear discs fitted, the front end rebuilt with a MG steering unit etc. Yippee (until I get the cheque from the body guys)
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Old # 78
Good going and keep at it. Here's a pic of our original B382000078 curing after a forth re-build. Lots of bent metal, lots of rust and 47 years of mistreatment, but still with us . . . . . . .
Been a long time, many things in the way. Today I called a nephew that owns three body shops and he is sending someone over to check my work and give an estimate for paint ready. Trembling that they don't think my replacing 3 fenders, 2 doors, 1 bonnet is crap. When its gone I will be worried however then I can strip the 5 bolt 289 and start on its rebuild with alloy heads, manifold, sump, billet dizi, 2 carbs, a 450 holley & 600 Edelbrok clone. Meanwhile the box will have wide band cogs fitted, the rear discs fitted, the front end rebuilt with a MG steering unit etc. Yippee (until I get the cheque from the body guys)
Good going and keep at it. Here's a pic of our original B382000078 curing after a forth re-build. Lots of bent metal, lots of rust and 47 years of mistreatment, but still with us . . . . . . .
grantstigers
Bronze forum user
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- 24
Tiger restoration
I am in the same boat. After 10 years with 2 reprimes (after taking the car home in primered condition I decided to weld underside wheel wells and it bubbled the primer and 2 repaints (16K in total)as I scratched up and damaged the valance panel and the engine guys taking it in and out and scratched the fire wall and around the car.
The car is painted and a final wet sand is happening this week. So when I get the car home there will be no more scratches. Engine installed and running
Will get the weber guy to do a final tune up on the webers and right now it is 438hp and will hopefully get a few more HPS when all done.
Can't wait to drive it this summer.
Tried to up load the pics but server is not working, it is a dark Green color. I used 2002 Lexus Emerald Jade
I am in the same boat. After 10 years with 2 reprimes (after taking the car home in primered condition I decided to weld underside wheel wells and it bubbled the primer and 2 repaints (16K in total)as I scratched up and damaged the valance panel and the engine guys taking it in and out and scratched the fire wall and around the car.
The car is painted and a final wet sand is happening this week. So when I get the car home there will be no more scratches. Engine installed and running
Will get the weber guy to do a final tune up on the webers and right now it is 438hp and will hopefully get a few more HPS when all done.
Can't wait to drive it this summer.
Tried to up load the pics but server is not working, it is a dark Green color. I used 2002 Lexus Emerald Jade
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Curious
I would be very interested in the bodyshop's opinions of costs. Using modern EPA approved products, our averages swing from 8K -11K and up depending on final metal shaping needs after welding. The down & dirty bondo and paint jobs we let the guys across town have . . . . . .
Well, its been some time, various happenings had stalled the project. Today I bit the bullit and have 2 body shops coming around to check my Tiger and decide the price for the final body work and paint.
I would be very interested in the bodyshop's opinions of costs. Using modern EPA approved products, our averages swing from 8K -11K and up depending on final metal shaping needs after welding. The down & dirty bondo and paint jobs we let the guys across town have . . . . . .
Well I had one bodyshop come around Thursday, had a good look, said maybe needs measurements as right door had zero gap at rear. OK wait till Monday.
Second bodyshop came today. Took a quick look after I explained what I had done. He basicly said I was wrong, fit the rear fender right. Fit the doors, get them right and only then fit the front fenders. He would have to remove the work I had done and the quote was $20,000.
Rather pissed, I went back to the car after. I put a straight edge on the B piller, oops bulge. Got the long board out, 10mins later the door slid into the rear opening, tight but in. So this gungho bodyman will NOT get the job. I also had to tighten the hinge screws, something he did not check.
There is no way the front fender has any bearing on the rear and lower fitment of the door. This &((&^ did not know anything about our cars even tho he said he did.
Have a third chap tomorrow, think positive
Second bodyshop came today. Took a quick look after I explained what I had done. He basicly said I was wrong, fit the rear fender right. Fit the doors, get them right and only then fit the front fenders. He would have to remove the work I had done and the quote was $20,000.
Rather pissed, I went back to the car after. I put a straight edge on the B piller, oops bulge. Got the long board out, 10mins later the door slid into the rear opening, tight but in. So this gungho bodyman will NOT get the job. I also had to tighten the hinge screws, something he did not check.
There is no way the front fender has any bearing on the rear and lower fitment of the door. This &((&^ did not know anything about our cars even tho he said he did.
Have a third chap tomorrow, think positive
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Keep at It
Once I know that welding/fabrication has the overall dimensions correct, I will often step in and aggravate the troops by taking over the door fitting issues. Personally, I like to run a bit more gap at the top rear knowing that it will tend to close over time. Many times we end up removing the hinges on the doors and deepen the hinge's seating area just a tad in order to gain some shim adjustment spacing. And YES, it is very important to tighten ALL the hinge screws EVERY TIME the door is mounted. Snugging only a few WILL NOT give you an accurate position.
Once I know that welding/fabrication has the overall dimensions correct, I will often step in and aggravate the troops by taking over the door fitting issues. Personally, I like to run a bit more gap at the top rear knowing that it will tend to close over time. Many times we end up removing the hinges on the doors and deepen the hinge's seating area just a tad in order to gain some shim adjustment spacing. And YES, it is very important to tighten ALL the hinge screws EVERY TIME the door is mounted. Snugging only a few WILL NOT give you an accurate position.
Thanks for the advise, still in never land. First company, showed no result yet
2nd had no interest, 20K
3rd has had been sick, hope to see this weekend
4th similar, google search found a local company
Still waiting
Well have decided on a body man. He is busy doing another Tiger at present, as well as other projects. He said he can fit mine in about late September, early October. So with other projects I have decided to have the replacement seats trimmed. The 289 doner engine to be proved OK. The front end has finally been submitted to electrolosis bath to remove 50 years of grime and, if any, rust. When the seats return and the 289 gets the nod and the front end surfaces, will try to post images.