Kens Tiger - B9471532

[Warren]

Caps

Can you put the old clutch master cap on there and the old brake plastic reservior on then rub some dirt on that pretty aluminum

Travis C. a fellow member and stock car owner running with the booster suggested this magic spray inside the booster can. He says he's been thru several rebuilds and it's better to use it.
Wondering what the air filter is made of too. Never run one and wasn't crazy about the feel on the stock cars I've driven with them . I had hoped the bypass line would be in metal and not it doesn't belong steel braided...
Guess it's more tools to buy to fashion one.

 

[Bryan]

There is a silicone that is used in a vacuum- thats all I use when re-buiding boosters

 

[KenF]

Engine Needs To Come Out

Well, it looks like the engine is going to have to come out! . I've soaked the cylinders for a few weeks with SeaFoam, Mystery Oil, etc. I've heard diesel might work if I just fill the crankcase and top end. A long bar isn't budging the crank, just felt like crank bolt tightened up a hair, and don't want to risk more damage, or snapping bolt. So, psyching myself up to get it out and tear it down, deciding about the out the top or bottom routine. Hopefully the main parts are good enough to reuse, valve job, hone and rings, and bearings will do. I'm going to try to resist overbuilding a slug 260, just get it back to running reliably. But who knows what it looks like inside. I've rebuilt several SBF's, so familiar ground. Maybe in a few years after driving a 2 barrel stocker I'll decide to build a different motor, paint, etc., we'll see.

 

[Warren]

Heavy sigh

How about rocking the car in gear? I live on a big hill and my first car repair I let a little water from the head removal get onto the pistons. I soaked it and went down the hill and dropped the clutch. It locked the rear wheel a couple times but then broke free. Sure that was a bullet proof International 6 cylinder that drove on for years and years. You can always dump diesel or your magic juice down the intake as well and the oil pump drive goodie can be mailed to you. Shes spent years give her more time. If not out the bottom. Be sure to look at Duke's old video online.

 

[Bryan]

try raising rear wheels and turning damper bolt -it might be stuck in gear- 2 cents

 

[KenF]

the oil pump drive goodie can be mailed to you.

Thanks, got one too.

try raising rear wheels and turning damper bolt -it might be stuck in gear- 2 cents

Yep, car is on jack stands.

If the water pump looks this bad, pretty sure the block is similar, and block should be boiled out anyway to avoid future cooling problems. Oil seals are probably shot, especially that rear rope seal.


It looks like the original 64 water pump, hopefully I can get it rebuilt.


Got starter out, block date code is 6/30/64, and distributor date is late June (4FE).

 

[Bryan]

Ken just got back my original water pump from Deadnutson from fresno around $175 -beatiful job-Bryan

 

[KenF]

Ken just got back my original water pump from Deadnutson from fresno around $175 -beatiful job-Bryan

Thanks, looks exactly like what I'll need.

www.deadnutson.com

 

[KenF]

Engine Out

Today I pulled the engine out the top. Came close to hitting the front body panel, but didn't. Using cheap Harbor Freight stuff does give me the willies sometimes. I did get the engine to turn over from the crank bolt, but decided to pull it anyway. Clutch looked pretty worn too. The original HEH-E trans still there, I'll pull the cover and check the forks and sliders, can't imagine this slug motor hurting this brute Toploader.


The water pump had some corrosion in the housing where I think should be just a 1/4" hole. I asked DeadNutsOn and he said it was not repairable in his opinion. So, found one on ePay, same number and dates, and rebuilt with HiPo impeller.


Tomorrow the teardown begins and probably take the heads to a shop. I'm hoping I can get by with a valve job, honing cylinders, rings, bearings, and timing chain, but who knows what lurks inside this thing.

 

[Forrest39]

I get that there’s value...

... in a stock 260. But if you want just a little more suds, get a 5-bolt 289 and hop it up just a little. Maybe you can go for a ride or someone will let you drive a stock 260 Tiger. Maybe it’s worth putting the 260 on a shelf for the resale pile, but have a 289 for today’s fun.
-Kevin

 

[KenF]

... in a stock 260. But if you want just a little more suds, get a 5-bolt 289 and hop it up just a little. Maybe you can go for a ride or someone will let you drive a stock 260 Tiger. Maybe it’s worth putting the 260 on a shelf for the resale pile, but have a 289 for today’s fun.
-Kevin

Yeah, I'm probably going to start rounding up parts while I drive the stocker for the next couple years. I've got some parts leftover from my Shelby days, and hopefully I can snag a five bolt 289 that will take a .030 overbore for a 331 or 347. I like fun, Here's an old video of my Shelby.:

Ken

 

[Warren]

Tiger Tales 272

Could still be in survivor dress with a similar build to Walter's 272 HP 260.
Then you'd only have to store some of those cast iron parts. As I recall the master chef put his recipe in a Tiger Tales article.

 

[Warren]

Back in black

What did you do with that cast iron master? another non direct fitment.

Rootes making mechanics AND fabricators out of ordinary guys.

 

[0neoffive]

Torque vs HP

Road car Tigers like torque. A few more rpm is OK also. I've assembled a few 260's over the decades with mixed results. A little more cam overlap & lift along with intake 4B manifolds that retain torque work best while still keeping the motor reliable. You don't need to build a monster; don't worry, yer knuckles will still get white!

 

[KenF]

What did you do with that cast iron master? another non direct fitment.

Yeah, I was surprised the SS sent me an black painted iron MS. I should send my old one out to get sleeved.

 

[KenF]

Engine looked pretty good on the inside. Bores looked good, slight ridge, I'll get them measured today. Pistons should be fine. Bearings okay, no scores, and crank might need just a polish. Not much sludge in the pan either. Water jackets are full of crud, probably end up boiling, freeze plugs, cam bearings, etc.


Head and valves look okay. We'll see how the valve guides are. Dropping it off at the machine shop later, hopefully minimal work needed.

 

[Warren]

Look at

Getting some 289 heads for her. My first tiger had 289 heads on it's 260 original block with bigger valves. There was an appreciable difference in the performance.
I drove at least two or three other stock 260s. Then you can save the heads for later. It's a no see um mod and can do other changes later. If you don't get the rocker studs fixed from their press in prone to fail condition.

 

[KenF]

Getting some 289 heads for her. My first tiger had 289 heads on it's 260 original block with bigger valves. There was an appreciable difference in the performance.
I drove at least two or three other stock 260s. Then you can save the heads for later. It's a no see um mod and can do other changes later. If you don't get the rocker studs fixed from their press in prone to fail condition.

Yeah, I've got a set of nicely ported 69 351W heads that are tempting to throw on. They're about 58cc, so it would change the compression in the wrong direction. Just going to leave it stock for now.

In that "leave it stock" spirit...Is this an original radiator? Pretty heavy, 3 core, about 2" thick. Looks in decent shape, wanting to use it, hopefully by rodding it out.


Going to take this and the heater core to radiator shop that are now cleaning out my fuel tanks, while the engine is in the machine shop.

 

[Warren]

Looks stock

But heads up , every radiator shop is rattle can happy that I've been too with glossy paint

 

[Forrest39]

In that "leave it stock" spirit...Is this an original radiator? Pretty heavy, 3 core, about 2" thick. Looks in decent shape, wanting to use it, hopefully by rodding it

Be sure to check your fan shroud fitment. My project has some funky 3 row core radiator with stock looking tanks, but when I tried to fit the fan shroud, there were issues. That part is still down the road for me so I haven't addressed it yet, so I can't elaborate more. I'd hate to see you spend's some bucks on a radiator that might not fit right.
-Kevin