POLL: Convertible Top Side Rails

[Austin Healer]

1st pic location of the male snap stud for the inner top flap (drainage channel) These are retained by a #6 flat head sheetmetal screws (phillips).
2nd pic button snap in flap of inner part of the top in drainage channel, correctly nickel plated.
3nd pic detail of how the top is fit to the "B" post of the top frame, this is glued in place and then secured with the alloy strip in the next pic with 4 (each side) #6 oval head sheetmetal screws. These would be phillips on early cars and pozi-drive on later cars.
4th pic alloy retainer for top on "B" post. These should be covered in matching materials to the top. They ARE handed.
5th pic location of the tail end of the flap on the side on the top
6th pic location of the front of the drip channel at the front corner of the header bow
7th pic original clips for the MK1 type top at the side drainage area. 3 per side.

It should be noted there were 2 different tops for the Alpine (series 4/5) and the Tiger. The first type used a cable system to tension the sides (cantrails) and the second used velcro strips. Otherwise they are identical and interchangeable. My understanding is that the early, cable type top are no longer available. The velcro strips can be easily added to earlier top frames

I have found that the Everflex tops are the easiest to fit and give the best overall installation with a minimum of wrinkles. The pinpoint tops are almost impossible as they as so thick and simply will not stretch, even with heat or steam. I have fit the cloth Hartz tops and they fit fairly well if you take your time but they are maintenance intensive to keep looking nice over time.

Hope this is helpful.

 

[KettleCarver]

Thanks a lot for sending the pictures! They are VERY helpful.

One other question. When my car was painted, they covered over the holes for the lift-a-dot studs and the top snap at the corner. I made a paper template of their location from a very original car. I was thinking it may be wise to wait till the top is installed and the top boot is installed before drilling into the new paint. I guess I am a little paranoid that with the top installed, it might be kinda bulky and the top boot won't stretch far enough to reach the studs. Would you agree with waiting?

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[Austin Healer]

The top boots can be really snug! I know mine is... I previously had a Haartz top installed on my car, and now have an OE everflex top. Everything fits with the studs in the original spots. I wonder if they just filled over the holes with filler or welded them up. I use machine threaded studs and the original screw stud type get lose and then damage the finish. The side one I could just get my hand into the access hole in the inner body. On the rear ones I drilled through the body and through the stiffener channel inside the trunk. I then used a larger bit to open up the hole in the trunk which allows a nut driver through the hole. they don't get loose now!! You should remove the fuel crossover vent hose from the channel first so you don't accidentally drill through it!

 

[KettleCarver]

The top boots can be really snug! I know mine is... I previously had a Haartz top installed on my car, and now have an OE everflex top. Everything fits with the studs in the original spots. I wonder if they just filled over the holes with filler or welded them up. I use machine threaded studs and the original screw stud type get lose and then damage the finish. The side one I could just get my hand into the access hole in the inner body. On the rear ones I drilled through the body and through the stiffener channel inside the trunk. I then used a larger bit to open up the hole in the trunk which allows a nut driver through the hole. they don't get loose now!! You should remove the fuel crossover vent hose from the channel first so you don't accidentally drill through it!

Good tip on removing the crossover vent hose!