1966 Tiger garage find

[michael-king]

Your car was an eaely mkia...they had riverts where the holes for the spec plates were...they didnt have a spec plate on the mkia.....

 

[Austin Healer]

I have had nothing but problems with gas tank "sealer" products... especially in states that mandate alcohol in the fuel system. Here is Washington it's pretty common to have fuel that is 15-20% ethanol... It peels the sealer products of the inner surface of the tanks , no matter how well you think you've etched them, usually plugging the fuel flow out the outlet of the crossover pipe... I've been stuck on the side of the road in cars with treated tanks... if it doesn't plug the fuel line to the pump, it plugs up the pump. I can't imagine the headaches with E85... It also attacks regular rubber fuel lines, and reeks havoc with SU fuel pumps... I've seen rubber fuel lines swell shut, not allowing any fuel to pass.

If you're in a state that mandates oxygenated fuel, it pays to make sure that the fuel pump, flexible lines and carb can deal with it.

I'm amazed that they allow it in California.. but they probably have one of their "this causes cancer" warning on it.... like just about everything I buy out of California! I'm sure the cardboard box that the parts come from probably causes cancer too... though, I'm not going to eat it, or inhale it.

But then, you know... saliva causes cancer too, but only when swallowed in small amounts over long periods of time.....

 

[Austin Healer]

Your car was an eaely mkia...they had riverts where the holes for the spec plates were...they didnt have a spec plate on the mkia.....

agreed, the data plate was discontinued somewhere near the end of Mk1 production. The PP (B9479975LRXFE) car I restored was the first car to Mk1A spec, but was built just a little before Mk1 production ended (July 1965). It had both blind alloy rivets (instead of steel) for the vin tag, but also had alloy rivets in the holes where the spec plate would normally be

 

[Austin Healer]

Honestly the original carb and distributor rebuilt arr reliable and easy... If you want some more pep an edelbrock or holley 465 carb and period F4b will be more than enough... Dont see a real benefit for a stock car for weekend drives using FI unless you really want to stop the old car petrol smell

The best way to get rid of the smell of fuel is to fit a phenolic carb spacer... The smell is usually caused by the heat of the engine boiling off remaining fuel in the float bowls...

I have an F4B and a Holley 600 (vac secondaries/manual choke) with points ign (single) Never had any issue with fuel smell after I installed carb spacers. I have 2 1/4" phenolic spacers.. No issue with hood clearance with an OE air cleaner.

The carb and dizzy are dead simple and I can service them on the side of the road if req.... if you have a pertronix ign, or FI, you'll be calling triple A for a tow and waiting days for parts...

sometimes simple is best... it's the KISS principle... keep it simple, stupid.

 

[Klaus and Cary]

some tigers only had rivets installed- data plates were being discontinued- but were fill with rivets-sorry

Well then, this looks to be our first snafu. I thought it looked like it was to perfect to have lost a plate. Oh well, my apologies to the purists. The wife likes it so it's going to stay. As stated early on, this is going to be a driver, not a restoration. I'd like to keep the originality, but the more I think about it and look at things we are going to be walking a line that some may not agree with.

Thanks for the info.

 

[michael-king]

agreed, the data plate was discontinued somewhere near the end of Mk1 production. The PP (B9479975LRXFE) car I restored was the first car to Mk1A spec, but was built just a little before Mk1 production ended (July 1965). It had both blind alloy rivets (instead of steel) for the vin tag, but also had alloy rivets in the holes where the spec plate would normally be

I should add that the 4 blind riverts in the deleted spec plate started during the cross body mki cars.. The GT interior square door and bonnet round boot cars. This continued into the early mkia cars. I cant recall the exact VIN when they stopped having the holes for the spec plate that necessitated the 4 riverts.. But they were gone by the time the mkia swicthed to all square opening panels

 

[michael-king]

Well then, this looks to be our first snafu. I thought it looked like it was to perfect to have lost a plate. Oh well, my apologies to the purists. The wife likes it so it's going to stay. As stated early on, this is going to be a driver, not a restoration. I'd like to keep the originality, but the more I think about it and look at things we are going to be walking a line that some may not agree with.

Thanks for the info.

It is your car.. So your choice....and given the condition it's in it appears a good survivor that doesnt need a restoration... Just a recomission.

The cars are only original once...so best in some ways to make changes that are bolt on/off reversible.... Its a pity on the spec plate...if you had to have one could have used automotive tape... Not like its a real feature of the cars....

I would advise asking questions about things on it before changing it drilling/cutting... Again.. Your car...but be sad for it to survive so unmolested so long and then loose a bunch of details for no reason.

 

[65beam]

I have had nothing but problems with gas tank "sealer" products... especially in states that mandate alcohol in the fuel system. Here is Washington it's pretty common to have fuel that is 15-20% ethanol... It peels the sealer products of the inner surface of the tanks , no matter how well you think you've etched them, usually plugging the fuel flow out the outlet of the crossover pipe... I've been stuck on the side of the road in cars with treated tanks... if it doesn't plug the fuel line to the pump, it plugs up the pump. I can't imagine the headaches with E85... It also attacks regular rubber fuel lines, and reeks havoc with SU fuel pumps... I've seen rubber fuel lines swell shut, not allowing any fuel to pass.

If you're in a state that mandates oxygenated fuel, it pays to make sure that the fuel pump, flexible lines and carb can deal with it.

I'm amazed that they allow it in California.. but they probably have one of their "this causes cancer" warning on it.... like just about everything I buy out of California! I'm sure the cardboard box that the parts come from probably causes cancer too... though, I'm not going to eat it, or inhale it.

But then, you know... saliva causes cancer too, but only when swallowed in small amounts over long periods of time.....

Washington is one of a few states that mandates that all refined gas be blended with ethanol to be at least an E10. Washington requires that 2 % of total gals refined be an ethanol blend. Think about the number of gallons refined. A barrel of crude is 42 gals and if it's a sweet crude you might come up with 12 to 14 gals of gas. Sweet crude does not make up the majority of crude. Blending 10% ethanol greatly increases the gasoline supply and lowers cost per gal simply because there isn't enough storage capacity this time of the year for all of the other products produced from the refining process. There are several internet sites that show the cars that the fuel systems are built to use up to a 15% blend. A 15 % blend isn't a common blend since there was a situation created in April of this year that allowed the E 15. In this part of the world you'll find the parts stores only stock fuel hose made to tolerate the ethanol blend. Granted there are vehicles on the road that have older rubber fuel lines that an E 10 blend could present a problem over long term use. You'll also find that current products such as storage tanks, pumping equipment, additives as well as tank sealers have been reformulated to tolerate the E 10. Don't most vehicles now use plastic fuel tanks? You'll find that a sub grade gas is used to blend a higher octane gas by using ethanol. That means that a refiner normally will use an 85 octane gas to make an 87 octane fuel since the ethanol is basicly an octane booster. An E 85 product is hard to find in this part of the world as well as non ethanol gas and most of the fuel terminals don't stock these items since no one wants to pay the upcharge for it. Freight rates go up depending on far you have to transport it. We have one company owned PacPride that we stock E 85 simply because there is a federal site within 1/2 mile that uses it in their vehicles. I paid $2.49 yesterday evening when I topped the tank of my GMC with 87. It's only going to get worse.

 

[Klaus and Cary]

It is your car.. So your choice....and given the condition it's in it appears a good survivor that doesnt need a restoration... Just a recomission.

The cars are only original once...so best in some ways to make changes that are bolt on/off reversible.... Its a pity on the spec plate...if you had to have one could have used automotive tape... Not like its a real feature of the cars....

I would advise asking questions about things on it before changing it drilling/cutting... Again.. Your car...but be sad for it to survive so unmolested so long and then loose a bunch of details for no reason.

Agreed, it is a bit unfortunate. But every tiger has a story...It has a bit of alteration already, the interior was dyed black from the original red by the previous owner. I like the black, so new upholstery is going in after the new year, and we are keeping it black.

After Christmas we will be rebuilding the fuel pump, brake booster replace the water pump(puking out the front) and all coolant lines. If we have time we will start the brake cylinder rebuilds and replacing the soft lines.

 

[Warren]

At least there no chrome emblem on the seat like on the Falcon convertible waiting for my time.
On a hot day if you're sat back on it without your shirt ouch....
If you're selling on the car I bet you would do better with the red interior.
Kind of along the lines of everybody has a black interior...
But there's always that caveat of when a black interior starts to get a little sun-beached it doesn't look pink like a red one does. I put three interiors in my Volkswagen convertible all red every 3 or 4 years, but they were cheep.


If you zoom in on the picture this is B382000859

 

[Klaus and Cary]

At least there no chrome emblem on the seat like on the Falcon convertible waiting for my time.
On a hot day if you're sat back on it without your shirt ouch....
If you're selling on the car I bet you would do better with the red interior.
Kind of along the lines of everybody has a black interior...
But there's always that caveat of when a black interior starts to get a little sun-beached it doesn't look pink like a red one does. I put three interiors in my Volkswagen convertible all red every 3 or 4 years, but they were cheep.


If you zoom in on the picture this is B382000859

Yes, I'm familiar with the issues of black seats, we have black Corbeau XRS seats in the bronco. They get a bit warm in the sun. They were the temp of the sun in the Sacramento heat. Not as bad here in the bay area. I've just started leaving the soft top on and just rolling up all the windows so the top provides some shade.

You are correct B382000859

 

[Austin Healer]

Washington is one of a few states that mandates that all refined gas be blended with ethanol to be at least an E10. Washington requires that 2 % of total gals refined be an ethanol blend. Think about the number of gallons refined. A barrel of crude is 42 gals and if it's a sweet crude you might come up with 12 to 14 gals of gas. Sweet crude does not make up the majority of crude. Blending 10% ethanol greatly increases the gasoline supply and lowers cost per gal simply because there isn't enough storage capacity this time of the year for all of the other products produced from the refining process. There are several internet sites that show the cars that the fuel systems are built to use up to a 15% blend. A 15 % blend isn't a common blend since there was a situation created in April of this year that allowed the E 15. In this part of the world you'll find the parts stores only stock fuel hose made to tolerate the ethanol blend. Granted there are vehicles on the road that have older rubber fuel lines that an E 10 blend could present a problem over long term use. You'll also find that current products such as storage tanks, pumping equipment, additives as well as tank sealers have been reformulated to tolerate the E 10. Don't most vehicles now use plastic fuel tanks? You'll find that a sub grade gas is used to blend a higher octane gas by using ethanol. That means that a refiner normally will use an 85 octane gas to make an 87 octane fuel since the ethanol is basicly an octane booster. An E 85 product is hard to find in this part of the world as well as non ethanol gas and most of the fuel terminals don't stock these items since no one wants to pay the upcharge for it. Freight rates go up depending on far you have to transport it. We have one company owned PacPride that we stock E 85 simply because there is a federal site within 1/2 mile that uses it in their vehicles. I paid $2.49 yesterday evening when I topped the tank of my GMC with 87. It's only going to get worse.

we can get ethanol free fuel in the premium grade from a few select stations...

 

[Warren]

There's an app for good gas called pure gas . Pretty useless for those with a flip phone Sean
Or in Cali.

 

[Austin Healer]

There's an app for good gas called pure gas . Pretty useless for those with a flip phone Sean
Or in Cali.

No fair for outing me!!!! You'll have to pry it out of my cold dead hand!!

 

[65beam]

we can get ethanol free fuel in the premium grade from a few select stations...

Here in Ohio ethanol free gas is called 'Recreational Gas " and can only be bought at places like marinas. Buyers are supposed to pay excise taxes if for road use.

 

[Klaus and Cary]

Sorry for the absence. Christmas and all. Happy new year everyone. No huge progress as it seems my wife has a social life and I do not. This is a joint project so I promised her we will do it together.

As said earlier, all the rubber is trash. So after some delay, we were able to take apart one of the door gaskets today. I noticed the new gaskets came with cross point screws and the originals were slotted. Against my better judgment having manually removed 10's of thousands of slotted screws.... we will reinstall them. A quick rub with the brass wire brush and hopefully tomorrow a shot of black paint and we will put it all back together.
Pics for the archive. Not sure how often these get torn apart. Interesting holes in some of the trim pieces. The rubber remnants will get cleaned off the chrome before reinstall. Probably a little anti-seize too so when we do the windshield gaskets I can easily get it all back apart..two steps forward one step back....

OH AND QUESTIONS:
1. Is the black, what almost looks like a sealant, in picture PS 3 normal? The car does appear to have some kind of undercoating.
2. I see the one nut for the windshield frame in picture PS 1, how many are there? Is it jus the two, one driver and one passenger or are there others under the dash.

Questions and comments encouraged. I hope to learn and possibly inform some as we go through this journey

 

[michael-king]

Nice to see the original brushed matt black innthe A pillar drains.. Always goes missing when cars get repainted.

 

[Klaus and Cary]

So In a previous post I mentioned the car came with parts. Here is an older set of exhaust. The car does need exhaust. DS is smashed and hanging by what looks like old picture frame wire, mufflers are blown out in spots and pipes are dented in areas they shouldn't be. I'm thinking it was off the road at some time. Not sure if it was intentional and the cars ground clearance was over estimated or the driver over estimated his driving ability.

These appear to be fairly old, "clearanced" in all the right places to go through the frame and have the hangers welded on in the correct places (albeit rather poorly)

Plan is to install this replacement exhaust as it came with the car. Had the previous owner not started a family and business these would be on the car. I think they belong on it.

It is 2" with 24" mufflers. Looks to be complete minus tips. I really like the look of the slant cut chrome tips on the existing exhaust, so that will be replicated either way. (if someone has info on something similar in a 2" please let me know.)

I was told to ask, so here I am asking. Good idea/bad idea/indifferent? Buy the SS replacement?

TIA

Klaus and Cary

 

[HolyCat]

One of the LAT options for Tigers is a 2" exhaust system - LAT 74. I can't say for certain, but your exhaust system looks like it might be one. Here is something from the LAT brochure.

 

[michael-king]

One of the LAT options for Tigers is a 2" exhaust system - LAT 74. I can't say for certain, but your exhaust system looks like it might be one. Here is something from the LAT brochure.
View attachment 16837

Agreed it looks very much like the original LAT74 setup, nice period part... The rather crude clearancing on the pass through and the hanger welds would be about right for period.

Note the LAT has straight cut non chromed tips.