5 lug for rear?

[Bob Knight]

Track

The "official" rear track measurement I came up with when planning my 8.8 swap that didn't happen, was 48.5". Several knowledgeable people told me that was just an average number, that actual Tiger measurements varied considerably due to, among other factors, the axle/hub taper fit, and how tight the hubs were torqued. I was originally thinking of adding an inch on each side to make the rear track more like the front, but after test fitting my Shelby wheels in the body shell, I decided that they would fit real well with the stock rear track measurement of 48.5" (my car wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface is more like 48 13/16" with Doug Jenning's new hubs and Wilwood brake hats), and I should lose and inch on each side in the front so the tires wouldn't hang out of the fenders, which I accomplished with Dale's front suspension. Probably cost me a little in cornering but looks a lot better.

Bob K.
B9471705

Sunbeam Tiger 260 data
mm inches
Wheelbase 2184 86
Track (front) 1314 51.7
Track (rear) 1232 48.5
Length 3962 156
Width 1537 60.5
Height 1308 51.5
Ground clearance 114 4.5
length:wheelbase ratio 1.81
Kerb weight 1163 kg 2564 lb
Weight distribution 51.00 %

 

[TigerBlue]

Try using a Torque Wrench?

I can distinctly remember snapping off one of the stock Tiger's spindly 7/16" studs when changing tires many years ago.

Even the lowly Pinto had 1/2" studs.

Have had 5 lug 1/2" stud hubs for 20+ yrs now.

I spray our front door with elephant repellant and no elephants have broken in for many weeks.

Rick

 

[the_tool_man]

So perhaps the hot ticket would be a 31 spline explorer or mustang rear end with smaller mustang brakes?!?...

One other nice thing about using an 8.8 is the availability of aftermarket limited slip differentials. I ran a Torsen T2-R in my Mustang, after wearing out the stock track-lock, and absolutely loved it. Very progressive and repeatable. Just something to consider. The only real downside to a stock 8.8 is the pinion crush sleeve design. But you can get solid spacer kits, which solve that.

Shifting gears (no pun intended...) what about the c-clip issue? some say clips are fine while others say install the clip eliminators.

C-clip eliminators are for cars powerful and heavy enough to snap axles. Few Tigers are powerful enough. No Tigers are heavy enough. Besides, if you swap to disc brakes, the axles can't exit the housing anyway.

 

[Forrest39]

C-clip eliminators are for cars powerful and heavy enough to snap axles. Few Tigers are powerful enough. No Tigers are heavy enough. Besides, if you swap to disc brakes, the axles can't exit the housing anyway.

I have read about the clip eliminators on some of the mustang sites, but I'm not familiar with them. I hadn't even considered the disc brakes -- that will definitely remedy my concerns. Thanks!
-Kevin

 

[XTIGERX]

Just to throw my 2 cents worth in regarding 4 vs. 5 lugs to support load. Supporting the cars weight on the lugs is a shear force vs. tightening a lug nut is a force in tension, two different animals.

Supporting 3000# on 16 lug bolts I agree is no problem. Using 50-50 weight distribution, just to make it simple, you'd have < 190# single shear across a 7/16" dia. root section. That would be a PASS without even bothering to look the values up (see below).

Yeah, I've snapped off a couple lugs on my car over the years while tightening them but that would be a minor concern as far as driving is concerned I would guess. I'm talking as a tension force being applied while driving not like you would be out trying to tighten the nuts while driving the car.

Transferring of HP load to lugs is also a shear force. One HP is approx. equal to 180# (a). So 400HP distributed to 8 lugs is 50HP per lug or 9000# shear. Shear values for 7/16-20 grade 2 = 6550#, grade 5 = 10100#, grade 8 = 14200# (b). So if lugs are grade 2 using 4 lugs per wheel with 400HP FAIL. Grade 5 or better PASS. Using 5 lugs per wheel and grade 2 lugs would also be a FAIL at 7200#

Max. HP allowed using 4 lugs per wheel grade 2 value = 290HP.

Anyone know what grade lugs are? From the FAIL values I'm getting I would guess lugs were at least a grade 5 originally. And of course there are safety factors and age involved so YMMV.

Somebody correct me where I'm wrong I'm just cobbling this stuff together.

references
(a) http://www.web-cars.com/math/horsepower.html
(b) http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/proofloadtensile.htm

 

[1fineAlpine]

Breaking stuff

I honestly think I'd grenade my T5 before I broke anything in the axle. Lol. This is a good thread. I've got access to a lot of the cars mentioned, except mustangs get snatched up by private parties and only the 4cyl ones make it to the wrecking yards. Once the private party gets them, the parts are on craigslist for top dollar... It sucks.

 

[Bob Knight]

Mustangs

You're in the wrong part of the country, 1fineAlpine... here in SoCal you can buy a running and driving 80's or 90's 5.0 Mustang for about $1,200, less for a junker. The big junk yards like Ecology commonly pay $300 per car here, and then proceed to sell parts of it for 4 or 5 times that. And then they still have a couple hundred dollars of scrap metal left over. It's a very profitable business. Oh, I forgot to mention they suck out the oil, Freon, and gasoline and sell that as well.
Bob K.
B9471705