Cooling plate

Johnnyb

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It's that time of year... Having a problem restarting when hot...Insolated all the fuel lines and moved the fuel pump to the trunk/ boot. Still produces some anxiety when running short errands and the car takes a short prayer to restart. Bought a cooling plate from Summit for the edelbroch carb and 4b ... what cha think?
Johnny B:confused:
 

HolyCat

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LAT Hood

I don't know much about cooling plates or if they would help in your situation, but do you have an LAT hood or a hood with a scoop? Seems like something that lets the hot air out from under the hood after a drive would be of benefit.

Good luck with your problem and hopefully others with more knowledge will respond about the cooling plate.
 

Johnnyb

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44
Coolin plate

I've got the LAT hood, electric and horn blocks. The car runs normal "Tiger" warm with no overheating. Just that short stop restart thing :O
Thanks for the response
John
 

ABSunbeams

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116
If you have the block under the carb with the heater hoses running through that causes gas to boil in the carb. The plate will insulate the heat getting to the carb, if you can get an infrared temp gage, check the temp at the carb before you put the spacer in & then after. Had the same issue (Checked 215F)and took the top off (2bbl) and the gas was boiling in the bowl. Changed the items (checked 180F)and problem solved.
 

Johnnyb

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44
cool plate

Thanks for your response. The carb is mounted directly to the 4b manifold no hoses running under the carb. But you're right the gas is probably boiling. Can't wait to check the difference in fuel temp. The plate is 3/8's thick. wonder if I need gaskets on both sides?
 

Doug C

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Post a photo of before and after

Please, Post a photo of before and after. If you can please send a photo of the cooling plate.

John, good luck.
 

Jimjordan2

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John, I don't know Tigers, but when I was running my 289 Mustangs, sometimes the timing could help with the hot restarts. Easy to check. But not being a mechanic, don't know advance, or retard, or I'm just an idiot.
CYA, Jim
 

HolyCat

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Check a couple of Things

Thanks for your response. The carb is mounted directly to the 4b manifold no hoses running under the carb. But you're right the gas is probably boiling. Can't wait to check the difference in fuel temp. The plate is 3/8's thick. wonder if I need gaskets on both sides?

First, unless the cooling plate is made of something pliable, you probably should install a gasket above and below it. You don't want to risk a vacuum leak due to a poor metal-to-metal "seal". Secondly, be sure to check carefully your hood clearance with the cooling plate installed. As I said earlier, I don't know much about cooling plates, including their thickness. No one wants a dimple in their hood caused by the air filter housing mounting stud. You can check your clearance before the plate by putting a lump of clay on top of that stud and gently close the hood until it latches. Then open it an measure the thickness of the clay where the stud went into it.

Good luck!
 

ABSunbeams

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116
Thanks for your response. The carb is mounted directly to the 4b manifold no hoses running under the carb. But you're right the gas is probably boiling. Can't wait to check the difference in fuel temp. The plate is 3/8's thick. wonder if I need gaskets on both sides?
You need gaskets on both sides, had a vacuum leak at the base to manifold. Check the hood clearance with a 3/8 spacer, I have an issue with the air cleaner coming very close to the hood. The stock Tiger air cleaner may not have that issue.
 

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Warren

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Oh boy

An air cleaner thread :)
Due to the curvature of the hood the stock AC housing may hit on outboard edges. Most get into problems with a big spacer under the carb..
Clay , Play-Doh , or flour water and salt , AKA a Mr. Bill recipe . There's not a lot of room but you can pretty much look up the scoop of your LAT hood as you shut it as well if you have one. There isn't a hood available that will be forgiving of you using your air cleaner housing as a tool shelf...
ABSunbeams if you'd like to swap I'll go straight across for your alloy one as we have about 25 left of the reproductions.

Oh and doesn't gas boil at 140°?
So basically there's not a lot you can do you can try to mitigate with the cooling plate but nothing will help better then pop in your hood and opening it a little.
 

norm1

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Multiple (2 or more) gaskets will accomplish the same thing.........a thermal break.
 

Johnnyb

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44
coolong plate

Thanks Warren
I'm waiting on the part to show up. It's 3/8's thick so i'll make some play dough ala Mr Bill. My friend gave me an original air cleaner which as you know gave me more clearance than the one Tim made. Popping the hood is a good idea too< Thanks. I also hear adjusting the float level in my edelbroch carb would help too, but I can't see how that would do anything but boil more gas. :)
 

65beam

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cooling

Depending on atmospheric pressure gasoline can boil at temps as low as 95F and as high as 400+ F. The Tiger engine bay is not the best conditions.
 

at the beach

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Johnny,

like you and most of the rest of us I've had the fuel percolate (boil) in the bowl while the car was parked while the hot engine heat soaked the carb.

Leaving the hood ajar helps but to get on the road immediately just remove the air cleaner and pour some water on each bowl. It will instantly cool both the bowl and the fuel enough that you can quickly get it start and get back on the road where the circulating air will quickly cool everything.

Good luck,
Buck
 

Johnnyb

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Messages
44
Hey Buck
Thank you for the idea on cooling the float bowl with water, have you heard of spraying compressed air from those computer duster cans? Seems to chill metal when I’ve tried to pop a dent out of a piece of metal? What cha think?
Thank
Johnnyb
 

Warren

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3,872
Good idea

I'd add use a spray bottle, AKA poor man's AC . Especially if you have cast iron manifolds. I've had cracked exhaust manifolds before as take offs.
 

at the beach

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Johnny, water has two things going for it. First, I always seem to have a plastic bottle of drinking water around in the car. (compressed air cans are a different story.) Also. the water cools both by conduction and also by soaking up a ton of calories as the phase changes to steam or evaporation occurs. We've gotten back on the road using less than half of a normal 12 oz bottle. A few ounces on each bowl seems to do the job. A sprayer isn't a bad idea but it's certainly something I don't routinely carry in a Tiger. Water is.

l have done this water cooling with both aluminum F-4Bs and also with cast iron manifolds. I've never had a cracking problem so that's not something I'm worried about.

Buck
 

ABSunbeams

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Messages
116
Carb plate

I used this plate with the 4b manifold to stop vaccum leaks at the base. It is .06” thick aluminum, it may be a little bit of a buffer to heat rise. Not the same as the block under the 2100 carb with heater hoses going thru. Thanks for the offer Warren will stick with what I got for now. May actually go back to the 2bbl manifold which would cure any hood to air cleaner issue.
 

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